FGRob
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Everything posted by FGRob
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3141 wrote: Looks really nice. Having just gone through the exercise myself I know how much time and trouble you have taken to achieve such an impressive result. And the clamps do add class to the job. In fact I've been really impressed with all the photos that have been posted. Yep they can take a lot of time but for sure the results are worth it. My Spit is back in storage now and won't be out again for the next 12 months as I've started a new project. It's a chassis based vehicle again but a little older and a lot more basic. ;) I also have a 1/2" lowering block on the rear spring but also fitted Gaz adjustable shocks all road, the front being height adjustable as well, which allowed me to balance the car up ride height wise really well. For sure there are some great photo's on this site, as these cars love having their pictures taken 8) 8)
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This is what I've got fitted, I did use Mikalor as they are far better than the standard clamps you get, clearance is good although a bit on the loud side 8) Hope this helps
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8940 wrote:hi ...thanks for all the replies ;) ...but i'm going to disagree with some of youir comments ....i think you are all being a bit over the top... i believe that any competant police officer , MOT tester would quite understand the situation (old/classic car) and if matters were to go further i'm sure the triumph Auto clubs would come to assist in my or for that case any body else's defence ..i for one will be leaving the plate where it is and today i've even high lighted it by spraying it gold 8) Get yourself over to the Land Rover series 2 forum - then you will understand the problems that are created by conflicting numbers, I'm putting a new chassis on my SWB and that opens up a complete bag of worms you would not believe - best advice given is to remove any problems and say nothing.
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Long shaft MK IV had headrest fitted - I've got them in mine.
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I had the same issue with one of my rockers, even though I had put a new shaft, cam and followers in, I got the bottom of it in the end, it was the actual rocker that had worn on the shaft so it was always going to knock, I did have a small issue with a groove on the tip as well. I replaced the whole lot with roller rockers and put a new up-rated shaft is as well, runs like a Swiss watch now, plus I get the added bonus of extra lift on the valve. The replacement rockers which are current sold come from India - need I say more, unless you can get original ones of course, that's the main reason I changed. Not every ones cup of tea, but it solves a problem which had been bugging me for the past 5 years.
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4526 wrote: Any pic's ? :P As said - great quality and fit - yes they are complete.
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I have a spare manifold with new studs fitted, you can have it for £30 plus postage - I'll take some photo's if you are interested, Forgot to add it's from a MKIV 1300 cc engine - colour is red (high temp paint) Rob.
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If you go the K&N route don't forget to get some stub stacks - it will help air flow into the carbs, here's a link to Rimmer's site but I brought mine of Fleabay http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RL1396
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ferny wrote:AAT or ATB should do you, but unless your car has flat spots when you accelerate then you probably won't need them. Do your pancakes have cold air going to them? Are they the restrictive skinny ones? A yes and a no in that order will make a big difference to performance. Also, fitting firmer springs (forget which it is, red or yellow) can help as well. Yellow is stiffer on the HS2
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7378 wrote:Here's some pic's of the set-up I have, defo two yellow and white wires but not sure about the other one, anyone else have this set-up?? Eventually I've sorted this, the wire mentioned above is pink and white which is a ballest wire as suggested, interest that is also spliced in a similar manner near to the ignition switch but again pulled out of the loom making it easier to disconnect. I've fitted a complete new blade type fuse board (kept the original on the outside as a dummy) and run a dedicated 12v supply to the coil from the ignition, on top of that I've replaced the coil with a Lucas Sports Coil 12v x 3.0 ohm and fitted a Accuspark electronic ingition, fired up first time, certainly feels a lot better, just need to set the carbs now and she will be good to go. 8)
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Here's a shot of the solenoid & coil:
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Here's some pick of the set-up I havem defo two yellow and white wires but not sure about the other one, anyone else have this set-up??
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bhuffer wrote:Have you not got a wiring diagram? That would tell you what colour wires you should have which would be a good starting point. This might help http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/wiring/MKIVwire.jpg From this the white is the ballast resistor wire nb it is built into the wire not a separate component as in older models and white yellow is the 12 volt from the solenoid. Hi Barry. Yes got a Haynes manual, the diagram you have referenced is identical to the Haynes one, which shows an external ballast resistor fed by the white wire, I've got the white wire with no resistor which is connected to both the coil and relay terminals (yellow & white wires) I think you are right though if this is a direct feed from the ignition switch I need to change the coil from a 12v 1.5 Ohm to a 12V 3.0 Ohm. I'll still take a pic tonight to show this connection. Thanks again. Rob
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piman wrote:Hello Rob, it sounds like a resistance wire rather than a separate resistor. Unless your points are closed you'll read battery voltage with or without a ballast, there must be current flow before the voltage is dropped. Alec PS, I just realised you said a battery voltage of 14.8 which means the engine is running, or your voltmeter is inaccurate? Hi Alec No the engine wasn't running and the charger was disconnected, so I did check the voltage across the battery which shocked me - the voltmeter is not that old so I hope it' not knackered. What colour would the wire be if it was a resistance wire, my car was a little unusual as it went to Germany and had some wiring mods, it was brought back into the UK in 74 hence it being a M plate. Rob.
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Cheers guys for the response. I had another look at the wiring last night, I'm even more confused now, I have three wires which come out of the loom just before the coil / solenoid, the colours look to be 2 x white & Yellow and one white, they are joined by what looks to be a factory connection, certainly not one I've put in. Checking the voltage, they all read the same around voltage - 14.6 v which is the battery voltage, looking at it I wondering if someone has removed the ballast resistor and basically by-passed it with this connection. I'll take a photo of it tonight so you can see what I mean, if the white wire is the feed from the ingition switch than it looks like I might need to change the coil to a 3 ohm coil as there is no ballast resistor fitted seperately of within the loom - I think :-/ Rob.
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I've been running through the electrics on my car, it's been over 15 years since it was put back together and I've decided to put an electronic ignitions system on it, here's the problem: 1. The engine is a 1300cc fitted to a 73 MKIV 2. The distributor is a delco. 3. The coil is a Lucas DLB 102 (12V 1.5 ohm) 4. There are only two wires going to the coil - a white & yellow to the Neg on the coil & black / white to the distributor. 5. There is no resistor - it could have been fitted but cetainly I can't remember it as it's over 24 years since it was stripped. 6. The car runs but obviously I need to get it right. So the question is - what the hell have I got, I can't remember who sold me the coil and why I wired the way it is, do I need to change the coil to a 3 ohm or can I run it as is, any help will be appreciated. Rob.
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I had the same problem with my rockers, I had renewed the rocker shaft as the original was worn, the rockers themselves did not seem that bad, but in the end, due to continually having to re-set due to noise I stripped the rocker assembly down which showed a lot of play between the rocker and shaft and also ridges in the tappet end. I decided in the end to replace the shaft with a tuffrided shaft and put in a set of roller rockers as buying replacement rockers (coming from India) was not a consideration as they are not as good a quality as the original parts, plus I renewed the ball adjuster and push rod - in otherwords everything. Since then the engine sounds like a swiss watch with no adjusting. Expensive I Know, well I say that but when you consider how much Jigsaw charge for their rockers it's still a cheap option. This solution is not everyones cup of tea, but for me it was the right one, plus I get the added advanged of a bit more lift on the valve as the ration is higher than standard. I have my old (newish) shaft which should fit yours as my engine is a late 1300cc, no real marks on it, you can have it for the cost of postage. Rob.
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I chopped them both off and ground them flush when I fitted my stainless exhaust manifold as they can't be used and are in the way. I had the manifold powder coated afterwards so you can't tell any more where they were.
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Yes the brake is lower on the MK IV, they should look like this if they are original:
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1381 wrote:Robs the crankshaft bearings of oil ??). Nothing wrong with my bearings ;D ;D Rob I've fitted a needle valve in mine to control the flow and maintain back pressure - it's a compromise and it works. 8)
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uksnatcher wrote:Good to know Rob, any chance of a link to the Harland Sharp rollers? Personally I like the klonky, tappy noises from the classic engine but at the end of the day, we all know the noise aint good and max flow is good...even if it does cost lots of pennies....(shy) I used these guys http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/ The guy's name is Joe. They included the machining of two of the rollers to clear the two outer pedestal (clearence on the overall diameter) - total charge including delivery to the UK £197.00 + £43.00 duty & VAT. You will also need a oil feed to the top of the head if you fitted them, I'd already got it so no additional expense. Just take a look at the other stuff Chequer Flag offer - those drive shafts 8) 8) Rob
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I must admit in the end I gave up with the rockers, even though I'd renewed the shaft / followers / springs etc the tappets sounded crap, I ended up changing to a tufrided shaft and put in Harland Sharp rollers from the US. OK not so cheap but it now sounds like a swiss watch and much cheaper than the rockers Jigsaw are selling (about £120 cheaper including delivey / duty etc) The new replacement rockers you buy now from Rimmers etc are from India and only last a short period - so I ruled them out. I know it's not everyones cup of tea but there are some small benefits of ratio change so letting the engine breath better but that was not the reason for doing this - I just wanted to remove that dam noise. Rob.
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junkuser wrote: Mmmm, a chain drive Spit, now that's an interesting idea. :) Yep - it drives the half track below. 8) :) :) :)
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The first setting is the Shaft Oil flinger which is the cupped shaped cover which fits on the shaft first, that should be set at 146mm +/- 2mm from the end of the shaft (threaded end) and the inner face of the flinger ring, once that is set you push the hub to within a couple of mm (say 4 / 5mm) to the face of the flinger ring and then let the hub do the rest when you tighten it up, the seal fits in the seal housing which protrudes into the back plate of the brake drum (there is a paper gasket between the bearing housing and seal housing to stop leakes), then you have the back plate followed by the oil catcher plate and then the hub. Here's a pic of the flinger ring in place - just in case you were wondering what I was on about. But to answer your question - yes it looks like you have gone to far. I hope this helps a little. Rob.
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4277 wrote:Has anyone had theirs powder coated, should look nice, I could get mine done when I get the steel wheels powder coated. Are there any downsides to consider vs ordinary silver paint and laquer ? The one on mine is powder coated - no real problems looks the part.