JumpingFrog

The long straight pipe, no strainer pump is the type I've found fitted to most of the Herald engines I've seen. More than likely the straight pickup with gauze is the type usually fitted to later 1500 engines, they do fit... But be careful as for me the pump body fouled slightly on the block (preventing the pump from seating), only a few strokes of a file to fix though. The 1500 oil pump also has a bigger rotor (as pictured). I'm pretty sure the angled pipe was initially fitted but later switched over to the straight pipe pump, the angled pipe perhaps has issues with starvation on long descents? The reproduction pump bodies aren't meant to be the best in terms of tolerance. I've seen it mentioned somewhere that buying new rotor kits (only available for the 1500 oil pump AFAIK) and fitting to an old body can give better tolerances... The 1500 pumps usually have alloy bodies, which coupled with a steel rotor will increase the clearance when hot, reducing oil pressure, so clearances on the low side are recommended.

Seeing the post on the Herald board about cracked blocks reminded me about the Spitfire FD block that I acquired recently. However, I don't want to hijack that thread... My engine was partially stripped when I got it, I doubt it's been rebuilt ever as it has standard pistons and bearing shells and hasn't even suffered from gaudy engine paint. Anyway, I noticed on inspecting it that there is a small weld repair to the sump flange, where you can see a brighter metal (high nickel content?). To me it looks like a good repair, but I'm a bit perplexed as to when it was done, would Triumph have repaired a block at the factory? I've heard mentions of 1500 blocks being shipped with liners... Would it be considered unwise to use this block for a slightly "hot" road engine? To me this looks like a repair to a casting flaw or void, not a crack? Thanks, David

I purchased new ones - the originals are a bit worse for wear having after removal. The originals are a tight taper fit as you say, but the replacements don't seem to be. I think I'll use some Loctite 577 (thread lock and sealant) on them to be sure they don't work loose. Sorry, should've made this clearer, you're correct that I am referring to the end plugs.

I've finally started rebuilding my 13/60 engine, but I'm not sure how deep to set the oil gallery plugs. In particular, the front one. It seems that it is threaded far enough that I can block the feed to the first main bearing? This seems a bit odd to me? Finally, is it worthwhile using PTFE tape or loctite on these? Thanks, David.

I think you mean Type 16 calipers. The PBM ones can be used IIRC, but as they are metric you need special bolts. See: Sorry , link no longer available

You have to take them out unfortunately. They will be marked on the backs. Something like "010" would be 10 thou undersize. There should be nothing other than a part number and manufacturers name/mark if they are standard size. One thing worth adding is that the Spitfire oil pump may need to be slightly modified to fit, I'm current rebuilding a 1296cc engine and have a Spit 1500 oil pump to go in. However, when I test fitted it I could get a 10 thou feel gauge under the rear of the pump (which wouldn't be ideal for oil pressure). I think I'll have to fettle the casing of the pump (it contacts the side of the block) with a file to allow it to sit flush.

You have to take them out unfortunately. They will be marked on the backs. Something like "010" would be 10 thou undersize. There should be nothing other than a part number and manufacturers name/mark if they are standard size. One thing worth adding is that the Spitfire oil pump may need to be slightly modified to fit, I'm current rebuilding a 1296cc engine and have a Spit 1500 oil pump to go in. However, when I test fitted it I could get a 10 thou feel gauge under the rear of the pump (which wouldn't be ideal for oil pressure). I think I'll have to fettle the casing of the pump (it contacts the side of the block) with a file to allow it to sit flush.

Thanks for the replies, I feared as much. Any ideas on the quality of the new replacements? The design of them at the yoke seems a little different too.

I'm currently working on refurbishing the rear end of my Herald - I'm trying to work out if these axle shafts are okay to reuse? There is some polishing where the needle rollers run as well as a small amount of pitting as shown in the pictures below. Thanks, David.