daedalusminos
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After not being 100% satisfied with the re-skin I did 25 odd years ago (yes I'm still restoring it!) I decided to buy a new LH door skin for my GT6 MK1 and re do it. I ordered the part from Rimmer's (RL1368) manufactured by SteelCraft (TS 11A LH). When it arrived (very well packed) it didn't look like it had the right curve, and sure enough after making a template taken from the good (original factory part) RH the replacement was a long way off...see photos. Question is, are they all supplied like this now or have I received a duff panel? I've only seen one previous post regarding incorrect curvature on these panels and that was on this forum back in 2015. Oh, is it really still only paid up members that can post photos?! Hopefully this link will work... https://photos.app.goo.gl/tmZUejSQG4L59EL6A
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I should have added, plug welding that close to the sill curve may result in distortion visible as rippling. Alternatively, could you bend the outer section of floor down, flange out to increase overlap? Obviously not possible if the membrane is already welded
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I would probably plug weld from outside, ensuring the 'plug' hole drilled in the sill picks up the floor flange and your extra bit.
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Temperatures can get hot in a standing car. I had a look at the Timebond datasheet and two points stood out as non-ideal:- Do not use Evo-Stik Timebond with vinyl or plasticised PVC as it will soften in time. Temperature: Resists up to 65C, less in humid conditions.
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Don't use ordinary Evostick, you need a high temperature contact adhesive. I found the 1 litre tin from Martrim to be excellent when replacing a headlining on a Lotus Excel - unfortunately the P&P looks excessive but you should be able to get something similar from other suppliers
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The cutter type are next to useless, not used the drill type, I just tend to use an angle grinder.
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The cutter type are next to useless, not used the drill type, I just tend to use an angle grinder.
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What about this... http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-402694
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I believe the main reason for many of those 'grommet holes' was to locate in jigging pegs during assembly on the production line.
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I agree with John, I fitted a Steelcraft skin to a MK1 GT6 some years ago and it was a perfect fit
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I agree with John, I fitted a Steelcraft skin to a MK1 GT6 some years ago and it was a perfect fit
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I agree with John, I fitted a Steelcraft skin to a MK1 GT6 some years ago and it was a perfect fit
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I agree with John, I fitted a Steelcraft skin to a MK1 GT6 some years ago and it was a perfect fit
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You've put the veneer on the wrong side! 😉
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The catches need to be in good condition along with the scuttle bracket (no notches - can be remetalled by welding/grinding, or just buy new) and the cones are also critical. The bonnet, cones and cone sockets need to be adjusted for correct seating height and forward/aft and lateral position. The big mistake is the cones not seating fully in the sockets but instead hitting the sides. The catch works on the over centre principal and needs to be under constant tension when closed, so when closing the catch it should tighten before loosening slightly as it 'snaps' shut but the cones should still be compressed slightly.