ODIN

If something does not fit then 99 times out of 100 when I am doing a job ,have fitted it wrong. You are probably much more competent  but for me, the process would  be: Step 1Pull  the drums off  again and dismantle everything. Step 2.  Compare the new bits with the parts  you have taken off.  Are they the same?- If they aren’t then ..get the right ones.Never accept  brake parts that don’t fit right. - You really should not need to have to start grinding anything  to make things fit !- especially brake adjusters.   If the parts are right then ,logically , your assembly  must be wrong. step 3 Have a good look at the bits and search for diagrams  in manual and photos  on line etc  to  to check  everything is  orientated the right way  Step 4 Reassemble ,but first take some  time to ensure that the adjusters are really fully cleaned up and copper geased  to move freely.On an “empty” backplate they should turn easily over the full threaded range  with just  two fingers  on a short spanner.    

  Only disadvantages I have encountered with silicone: 1paintwork contamination. A  quite difficult problem with ‘fish eyes” when attempting to re-paint because of  merest traces of silicone.(not insurmountable but careful prep needed) 2 From painful experience - it is very slippery  stuff  underfoot if  you spill just a little bit!        

Been using  silicone  fluid  for years .No issues at all.

VW recommend a rejuvenating fluid to rub into rubber seals on the folding roof of the Eos. It is called Krytox. It is not silicone basedIt is made by Dupont   It is  very expensive-  but it really works-it rejuvenates and “plumps” up the rubber seals where they have become flattened and less resiilient and  greyish. The VW stuff is  expensive++++ but you can get a generic Krytox much cheaper on line. One brand from Manchester is marketed  under the attractive name of “slug slime”

. On UK models, tank venting  is via cap diaphragm seal The tank vent is just blanked off with this  blind ended rubber seal- which perishes and   gives rise to the petrol in cabin smell. The best answer? =  Go to plumber's merchant or B& Q and buy a microbore  central heating stop-end (8mm compression fitting) Fits in seconds  and it  looks like it's  an original part-rather than bolt in tube etc "Fit and Forget"

I  steered away from hardboard, cardboard, millboard  and mdf  ( horrible stuff  swells  up like  sponge at a hint of water) Plastic is the way to go 5 mm polycarbonate (B&Q) twin wall. 2 doors  work out at about about £6 total. Use old card(or what's left of it if if they were lke mine) as template Only tricky bit is cutting holes properly= time, care and patience required.Hole punch for smaller holes The problem  re staples?  = don't use them   Bostik sticks vinyl  on to the plastic.

Copper Ease or similar OK I tried "white grease" on the basis that it was water ingress that had caused the problem and such calcium based greases are  supposed to be water  resistant (ok for wheel bearings on boat launchers). The back plate doesn't get that hot  I would think - and you only need a tiny bit. The rubber "ear" covers are probably helpful as splash protectors. Its more a case of being aware of the problem and its causation and freeing them off , de-rusting them and lubricating them a bit when the need arises.I recall them being often  seized solid and needing a lot of " persuasion"  even to get them to move at all. Drum brakes can be a test  of ones patience -fiddly with  their weird  springs and those odd hold down things that have bits that go " ping" and disappear into the undergrowth.Modern disc set ups are a doddle.

If the U plate and the U clip are missing( Referring to 120138 and 519758 in the Rimmers link supplied by Clive) I would think the wheel cylinder would  move about a fair bit and vibrate under  braking.Definitely replace them! These clips are supposed to hold the cylinder but allow it to slide in the back plate. My dad's Anglia 105e had similar set up.They used to rust/stick/seize up The indication of them seizing in the back plate  was when the handbrake wouldn't hold car on hill. This happened  fairly  frequently. As a teenager it was one of my pocket money little earners to dismantle them and free them off!

Thanks, that also makes sense

Thanks- that does  makes sense. I can't see the point of cutting out a hole in a new panel simply to put a grommet in it- there are limits to originality especially under carpets or in the boot...

  Some replacement panels such as spitfire boot floor , rear lower inner wing repair panels don't come with grommet holes as per the original. I know my questions  reveal my sparse knowledge  and  experience and the  answers will probably be very obvious to knowledgeable and the  experienced -please be patient! What function do the grommets  have? If it is for drainage then clearly they don't work very well  judging by the rampant rust seen in most folks "before" restoration photographs. Are they sometimes there, like in the inner sill apertures. to allow spot welder  arms access during original assembly? So when replacing  such panels,  is the  case  for a  cutting a hole - simply to put a grommet in it?

I Agree, Baz I also used  "sponmon" via Ebay Arrived  very quickly Looks very  professionally made with substantial welds-It needs to be very  strong - and specific to the task,"generic" hub pullers  are likely to let you down and maybe do damage. £65 plus P&P

Hi, the edges don't seem to be  a problem so far ay least. The marine ply sounds a good option -certainly easier to machine though the polycarb is ok on a bandsaw. I do  appreciate what you mean about not getting around to driving the thing - but there is a bright side,Brendan ,I'm sure you'll see For every old retiree like me, In my shed ,tediously tinkering On the road, one less old duffer dangerously dawdling... Have a nice week end, everyone..

The other reason (well to be honest, the main reason) that I was attracted to the  polycarbonate answer   was: New door trim panel (Moss)= £117 each New  door trim panel( Rimmers)=£103  each 4mm polycarb twin wall Corotherm  panel 610mmx1220mm =£8.98 each  plus a tube of glue and an hour or two of fettling..

As part of my  everlasting Spitfire Mk 1V overhaul I have got to the doors. The door cards seem to be made of hardboard (or what was originally hardboard having crumbled to oblivion in places) with rusty staples holding the vinyl trim in place Is there a more modern alternative to this cheap and nasty construction? I came across twinwall polycarbonate sheeting of about the same thickness. (exB&Q).It isn't the easiest to cut holes into - sharp hole punch seems better but it is very strong and obviously will not rot . The old door card remains are used as atemplate for the new card and the cleaned up destapled vinyl carerfully secured with impact adhesive - seems to work -are there other solutions to this problem?