daedalusminos
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Everything posted by daedalusminos
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After not being 100% satisfied with the re-skin I did 25 odd years ago (yes I'm still restoring it!) I decided to buy a new LH door skin for my GT6 MK1 and re do it. I ordered the part from Rimmer's (RL1368) manufactured by SteelCraft (TS 11A LH). When it arrived (very well packed) it didn't look like it had the right curve, and sure enough after making a template taken from the good (original factory part) RH the replacement was a long way off...see photos. Question is, are they all supplied like this now or have I received a duff panel? I've only seen one previous post regarding incorrect curvature on these panels and that was on this forum back in 2015. Oh, is it really still only paid up members that can post photos?! Hopefully this link will work... https://photos.app.goo.gl/tmZUejSQG4L59EL6A
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I should have added, plug welding that close to the sill curve may result in distortion visible as rippling. Alternatively, could you bend the outer section of floor down, flange out to increase overlap? Obviously not possible if the membrane is already welded
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I would probably plug weld from outside, ensuring the 'plug' hole drilled in the sill picks up the floor flange and your extra bit.
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Temperatures can get hot in a standing car. I had a look at the Timebond datasheet and two points stood out as non-ideal:- Do not use Evo-Stik Timebond with vinyl or plasticised PVC as it will soften in time. Temperature: Resists up to 65C, less in humid conditions.
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Don't use ordinary Evostick, you need a high temperature contact adhesive. I found the 1 litre tin from Martrim to be excellent when replacing a headlining on a Lotus Excel - unfortunately the P&P looks excessive but you should be able to get something similar from other suppliers
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The cutter type are next to useless, not used the drill type, I just tend to use an angle grinder.
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The cutter type are next to useless, not used the drill type, I just tend to use an angle grinder.
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What about this... http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-402694
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I believe the main reason for many of those 'grommet holes' was to locate in jigging pegs during assembly on the production line.
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I agree with John, I fitted a Steelcraft skin to a MK1 GT6 some years ago and it was a perfect fit
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I agree with John, I fitted a Steelcraft skin to a MK1 GT6 some years ago and it was a perfect fit
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I agree with John, I fitted a Steelcraft skin to a MK1 GT6 some years ago and it was a perfect fit
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I agree with John, I fitted a Steelcraft skin to a MK1 GT6 some years ago and it was a perfect fit
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You've put the veneer on the wrong side! 😉
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The catches need to be in good condition along with the scuttle bracket (no notches - can be remetalled by welding/grinding, or just buy new) and the cones are also critical. The bonnet, cones and cone sockets need to be adjusted for correct seating height and forward/aft and lateral position. The big mistake is the cones not seating fully in the sockets but instead hitting the sides. The catch works on the over centre principal and needs to be under constant tension when closed, so when closing the catch it should tighten before loosening slightly as it 'snaps' shut but the cones should still be compressed slightly.
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Your answer is in your subject...molded carpets will fit better than luxury wool carpets but luxury wool carpets will be more, erm luxurious than molded carpets. But seriously, I would suggest you request samples before you purchase, but remember only a molded carpet will fit that tunnel correctly
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What's wrong with your original pump? Will a recon kit not suffice?
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The other end of the starter motor shaft has flats on it (adjacent to the terminal post) so that you can get a spanner on it in case the Bendix jams - there's sometimes a metal cover cap fitted. If it keeps happening you may have damaged Bendix or ring gear teeth.
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So did these engines not have exhaust valve inserts from factory? In any case, you can't assume because it has an insert that it is a hardened insert suitable for UL - it could be contemporary engine work where the seats have been replaced due to wear with standard inserts.
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The £300 Sports Car Supplies ones are excl VAT....so that brings it to £360. I can't see the wheel arches in their photo. Newton do claim to manufacture off the original tools, Rimmer possibly source theirs from Newton.
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Are you sure the outside of the top damper 'eyelet' isn't contacting the bracket conversion?
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I agree with Colin. The requirement is to have the VIN (chassis) number stamped onto the car (usually a VIN plate but also duplicated on the body/chassis). This will usually only be checked at the MOT and the MOT inspector will usually check the number of the VIN (commission) plate - it's easier to locate and read than looking for a rusty stamp on the body. So your number mismatch would not normally be an issue, but if your VIN plate is missing then they will search the body/chassis for a number so best to get rid of that offending number. Incidentally you do not have to have an official plate, the number must just be stamped. If you're stopped by the police then they could check all numbers to verify legitimacy of the vehicle.
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What's the difference side to side from shock absorber stud-stud?
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If it's not poor restoration work then door twist is most likely. The skins I've encountered are only folded from waist down so not much torsional strength - not sure why from factory they didn't add a couple more tack welds along the bottom.
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Flooding carbs sounds more like a float/ 'needle valve' problem. The fuel pump pressure is determined by the diaphragm spring and is fixed.