glang

Yes Ive had lots of problems with hose connections (I too have an after market ally rad🤔) and it takes several retightens before my overflow pipe to the water bottle will stay full consistantly when leaving the car unused for a while...

When doing the test be careful not to over pressurise the system as the radiator cap obviously wont protect it and you could burst something!

Looks like a non OD 3 synchro item from a Herald/early Spitfire/Vitesse 1600 so probably not worth doing...

The problem can be that theres a small leak somewhere (even water pump seal as suggested) but only under pressure so when the coolant comes out it turns to steam straight away and leaves no indication.

Its possible to pressurise the system cold with a special radiator cap and hand pump then any leakage will be in liquid form and easier to spot. I have done this but by connecting a pump to the radiator overflow pipe with the normal cap still in place. Then if the cap has a good top seal you can carefully pressurise the system and have a good look round. Obviously keep the pressure below the cap lifting value and note that the system should hold it so be wary when later undoing the cap as although not hot coolant will still tend to shoot out!

Trouble is on forums we only usually hear about problems not when a replacement part has done exactly what was expected. Even then just because a part bought from a particular supplier is good doesnt mean the next one you buy there will be the same type! Most stuff has no manufacturers name or identification on it☹️

Nowadays who knows when something is OE quality though? Everybody will tell you that it is (and charge for it?) but unless youve got access to the original spec (if it exists still) and then specialised measuring equipment (for example in this case what metal alloy has been used) its impossible to know. Even the stockist cant know so really it all comes down to feedback on results through club websites, professional rebuilders and direct to said stockists who hopefully will take notice... 

Only cheap if it fits! Online it says the Standard 8 front suspension was double wishbone with coil over damper which sounds hopeful but on it and the steering there were '21 greasing points to be done every 1000 miles'. This is rather more than a Herald/Spitfire has so really need to get to a meet and compare cars side by side👍  

Obviously discs would be nice but I wouldnt write the drums off. Wheeler Dealers did a Volvo PV544 and found the brakes quite acceptable with uprated shoes and well adjusted - of course it also does depend on how you want to drive it... 

40 minutes ago, Steveant1 said:

Hi. I’m just being nosy but I didn’t know that the body comes off when I brought my car as I nether had a triumph herald before and not long brought mine. I was so amazed so I had a look at my car and could see the bolts then when looking for parts I’ve seen all the parts on sale including roof to chassis. It’s very interesting to see and read that people actually taking them apart but if I was going to replace my chassis would I have to get a logbook with it or can I just transfer the chassis number over as I mentioned I’ve never done or heard of this before. 

The chassis doesnt have a number physically attached to it as this is mounted on the body so it would remain the same after a chassis swop. However when people buy a second hand chassis to build a kit car they usually want it to come with the associated paperwork to be able to use that for the new car....

A diff ratio change can be a great modification especially if you now have more power. The most important factor is what its like at the moment pulling away in first? You have to consider this fully loaded on a steep hill as a lower ratio diff will mean its harder and you dont want to have to slip the clutch and increase revs a lot to do it...

I would guess the diff in the Herald is the same or at least the crownwheel and pinnion can be swopped over as the early ones were 4.88, then 4.55 before finally becoming 4.11 which will be the easiest to find.

Ah yes that will be the pipe that returns coolant back to the pump from the heater and there are different versions depending on the exact engine (4 or 6 cylinders etc). The original is steel and can rust through especially if the antifreeze hasnt been kept within specification however leaks in this area can be deceptive because there are core plugs just behind the pipe which can also fail...

Part of exhaust system?

Meant to include the possibility of there being an anti friction additive in the oil which is a no no...

No additive in oil I hope? Oil change good start. Then are you certain solenoid is operating everytime and you havent got an intermittent electrical fault? Finally the manual shows the things you can do from underneath like a OD filter clean...

To me it sounds like the friction surfaces are slipping so that OD doesnt grip until the power is taken off and then slips as soon as it returns. This can be worn friction material or low hydraulic pressure. The oil filter, which if blocked might explain the latter, is accessible from the underside of the OD...

5 hours ago, Steveant1 said:

Hi glamg. I have tried to heat it up but I only have a hand held one it won’t glow red. I may have to drill it out and hope for the best. 

Yes I was thinking more heat the flange not the stud so the hole expands. Course this needs a fair bit of heat although dont need cherry red...

I would have said heat is the only way left now. A beefy blow torch to heat the flange to expand it and then try turning the remains of the studs...

Yes as Wendy said, Canleys do the pipe and all the other big suppliers, for yours think part number is 206085S...

Ah ok thanks. I think on the vitesse you can thread the pipe in and out without touching much else🤔

36 minutes ago, Steveant1 said:

Hi. All I have taken off the manifold not a straightforward job as I thought I had to undo the exhaust and broke two studs to get the pipe at the back which I have now removed and it is the pipe which is leaking as in photos now I’ve just got removed the broken Studs And replace with a new pipe, clean the carburettor And put it back together. 

Oh dear now I do feel bad but I thought you could get the pipe out to inspect it first without removing the manifolds☹️

If all the checks Clive recommends are ok I would suggest changing the front and rear oil seals on both engine and gearbox (also provides a chance to check cam chain and tensioner) as these are very cheap and easy to do while its out of the car...

Will you buy the new pipe beforehand or wait until youve removed and inspected the old one?

Generally its pretty easy to know if an engine is running hot as it starts to pink (rattling noise as you accelerate), struggles to maintain idle and smells hot. Then helpfully before any damage can happen the radiator cap lifts and dumps steam everywhere (unless youre using waterless coolant of course)! All a gauge would do is give you a bit of advance warning that this is about to happen...

Yes could be the pipe but could also be spraying from the core plug immediately behind onto it...

Think theres also the valve guides to consider as these were originally reamed to suit the valve stems so might be tight or loose with replacements.

With the seats you would know whether lapping is going to work fairly quickly because as soon as you start you'll see how good the contact is between the two. You can always go back to the original valves and continue by lapping those in instead....

Heres what my Vitesse/GT6 Triumph workshop manual says: