glang

Well suncream certainly gives UV protection but of course wouldnt last in rain☹️

On 03/04/2024 at 10:01, glang said:

That does sound hopeful👍Otherwise I believe there is suntan cream available for rubber...

Heres some stuff. Bit expensive and no idea if it works but given the price of those window rubbers might be worth a go. Also might protect tyre walls from cracking...

How did this work out Richard, all functioning ok?

That does sound hopeful👍Otherwise I believe there is suntan cream available for rubber...

Theyre 86 plus vat and del. now but the only alternative is secondhand and they probably wont be in much better condition than the originals😒 

Be interesting how they last Wendy as some new rubber components these days start breaking up very quickly...

The ball (theres another one in the inlet to the accelerator pump) act as non return valves to ensure fuel always gets pumped in one direction (out of the nozzle) however has said nozzle goes quite high maybe the second ball isnt needed. You could test it when the carb is assembled by getting fuel into the float chamber and manually seeing how efficiently the accelerator pump works...

Canley says its 1/8" ball but Im not sure all carbs had it. Looking into the hole does it look like its prepared for the ball to sit there and seal?

Still on my original 55 year old leads and they work a treat - now thats quality!

Sorry cant help on the job but first have you sourced a new sunroof as they are horrendously expensive! Even second hand they are so sought after that even in only reasonable condition they go for hundreds...

2 hours ago, Richard B said:

I might be wrong, but I think the early Herald indicator is different to the others. My understanding is that that if the sidelights are on; when you indicate the sidelight flashes on or off. This is because both sides of the bulb get 12v, same as an ignition warning light.

I believe the bulb has two poles on the base, but only one filament. Earthing through the bonnet and then the hinges is problematical.

If either function is used on its own, then the bulb earths through the other bulbs.

Anyone got a working 948 who can confirm?

That would be pretty difficult to do and Rimmers says a double filament bulb (GLB380) was used. That makes sense as the 5w filament would illuminate with the side lights and then the much brighter 21w light up as well and flash when the indicators are operated. Both are earthed through the lamp case and this arrangement would then be much easier to convert as Wendy has done...

oh I see, both filaments earth through the case of the lamp which then has a strap to earth it? Probably better than using its fixing screws to the bonnet as they always rust....

Wait a minute Richard surely both the filaments of the bulb, one supplied by the side light feed and the other from indicators, must earth down through the case...

The oil pressure regulator should limit max pressure but I know its not a fine control....

Yes the spindles not so worrying as theres always going to be some leakage and its effect should be minimal...

With the vacuum dome maybe its been distorted or theres a burr or something stopping it seating properly? Again although it has to be corrected the effect is probably small but have you got a running problem?

Of these two issues the most worrying is the vacuum dome as this should have a tightly sealed joint. You should be able to suck on the vacuum connection to it and block it with your tongue so it holds vacuum...

I thought this problem had been resolved and they now come with lower seats. Certainly I replaced mine a while back with items from Paddock and no issues found...

Errr loosen the slide channels as I suggest so the glass moves more easily...

Unfortunately not very clear but this is from one of the manuals Clive mentions. Theres some access holes through the door inner to get to various fixing screws so you can release the channels. I would start with the back one which has two but is also strengthened by that cross wire at the bottom and try to engage the glass correctly...

As the gear is plastic and that sounds metal to metal Im going to go with a motor bearing having collapsed and its rotor is now rubbing against the stator☹️

No this filter doesnt have the correct thread to suit a standard 1500 Spit....

Amazing, seems some people dont know what the oil pressure warning light is for!

Is your oil pressure warning light working? Ive changed mine to a very bright LED bulb...

Generally oil pressure is highest when the oil is cold and new then drops as both of these factors change.

The other thing that affects oil pressure is the state of the engine. As the crankshaft bearings and/or oil pump wear their clearances increase so leakage makes system pressure drop.

Finally oil pressure gauges are also known as 'worry gauges' exactly because they can induce excessive concern😁 They can be quite inaccurate so really youre looking for change in the reading to indicate a problem...

Unfortunately as standard the Stag gearbox input shaft diameter was bigger (1.25") than that of the saloon units (1.00") so the friction plate definitely wont fit....

how long ago did you buy it and how many miles has it done?

19 minutes ago, Boxofbits said:

I know The TR Register have an initiative called the ‘Spares Development Fund’, and many owners or companies manufacturer spare parts of a high standard. Some very useful previously unobtainable parts there back in production. This is the link..

https://www.trsdf.uk/projects

But I’ve not come across this one with the tensioner before though it could always be a one-off. I’ll have a chat with Moss and TR shop tomorrow about it. It would not be difficult to manufacture it from high quality sprung steel I wouldn’t have thought?

Quite often I think the problem is only quality control so you get components like that tensioner which are fine and then a batch which are too hard or too soft! Unfortunately to get them made by a company who will do things better usually means quite an increase in price (especially if not made in a cheaper labour area) and finally the buyers have to be convinced of the improvement...