glang

Meant to include the possibility of there being an anti friction additive in the oil which is a no no...

No additive in oil I hope? Oil change good start. Then are you certain solenoid is operating everytime and you havent got an intermittent electrical fault? Finally the manual shows the things you can do from underneath like a OD filter clean...

To me it sounds like the friction surfaces are slipping so that OD doesnt grip until the power is taken off and then slips as soon as it returns. This can be worn friction material or low hydraulic pressure. The oil filter, which if blocked might explain the latter, is accessible from the underside of the OD...

Yes I was thinking more heat the flange not the stud so the hole expands. Course this needs a fair bit of heat although dont need cherry red...

I would have said heat is the only way left now. A beefy blow torch to heat the flange to expand it and then try turning the remains of the studs...

Yes as Wendy said, Canleys do the pipe and all the other big suppliers, for yours think part number is 206085S...

Ah ok thanks. I think on the vitesse you can thread the pipe in and out without touching much else🤔

Oh dear now I do feel bad but I thought you could get the pipe out to inspect it first without removing the manifolds☹️

If all the checks Clive recommends are ok I would suggest changing the front and rear oil seals on both engine and gearbox (also provides a chance to check cam chain and tensioner) as these are very cheap and easy to do while its out of the car...

Will you buy the new pipe beforehand or wait until youve removed and inspected the old one? Generally its pretty easy to know if an engine is running hot as it starts to pink (rattling noise as you accelerate), struggles to maintain idle and smells hot. Then helpfully before any damage can happen the radiator cap lifts and dumps steam everywhere (unless youre using waterless coolant of course)! All a gauge would do is give you a bit of advance warning that this is about to happen...

Yes could be the pipe but could also be spraying from the core plug immediately behind onto it...

Think theres also the valve guides to consider as these were originally reamed to suit the valve stems so might be tight or loose with replacements. With the seats you would know whether lapping is going to work fairly quickly because as soon as you start you'll see how good the contact is between the two. You can always go back to the original valves and continue by lapping those in instead....

Heres what my Vitesse/GT6 Triumph workshop manual says:

Certainly looks like it but be very careful its not the larger 60mm diameter one. The page doesnt say which size it is...

Should have added that unfortunately afaik theyre not made now so its NOS or secondhand and that makes them expensive. In the end you can get a new master cylinder with large plastic reservoir for pretty much same money...

Yes with the small reservoir really recommend adding an extender, Girling part number 64947008 (dont get the larger size one), as this increases capacity and lets you see a drop in level without removing the cap...

Try to get a good look behind the exhaust manifold with a bright light and mirror as theres also a core plug there that is prone to leaking. Think the pipes are available in stainless...

The wonderful internet says its a 1300 engine from a Toledo or Dolomite (probably the former being the earlier one)...

As the block and head surfaces are identical on non recessed units it doesnt matter which way up the gasket goes...

Well suncream certainly gives UV protection but of course wouldnt last in rain☹️

Heres some stuff. Bit expensive and no idea if it works but given the price of those window rubbers might be worth a go. Also might protect tyre walls from cracking...

How did this work out Richard, all functioning ok?

That does sound hopeful👍Otherwise I believe there is suntan cream available for rubber...

Theyre 86 plus vat and del. now but the only alternative is secondhand and they probably wont be in much better condition than the originals😒 Be interesting how they last Wendy as some new rubber components these days start breaking up very quickly...

The ball (theres another one in the inlet to the accelerator pump) act as non return valves to ensure fuel always gets pumped in one direction (out of the nozzle) however has said nozzle goes quite high maybe the second ball isnt needed. You could test it when the carb is assembled by getting fuel into the float chamber and manually seeing how efficiently the accelerator pump works...