glang

Canley says its 1/8" ball but Im not sure all carbs had it. Looking into the hole does it look like its prepared for the ball to sit there and seal?

Still on my original 55 year old leads and they work a treat - now thats quality!

Sorry cant help on the job but first have you sourced a new sunroof as they are horrendously expensive! Even second hand they are so sought after that even in only reasonable condition they go for hundreds...

That would be pretty difficult to do and Rimmers says a double filament bulb (GLB380) was used. That makes sense as the 5w filament would illuminate with the side lights and then the much brighter 21w light up as well and flash when the indicators are operated. Both are earthed through the lamp case and this arrangement would then be much easier to convert as Wendy has done...

oh I see, both filaments earth through the case of the lamp which then has a strap to earth it? Probably better than using its fixing screws to the bonnet as they always rust....

Wait a minute Richard surely both the filaments of the bulb, one supplied by the side light feed and the other from indicators, must earth down through the case...

The oil pressure regulator should limit max pressure but I know its not a fine control....

Yes the spindles not so worrying as theres always going to be some leakage and its effect should be minimal... With the vacuum dome maybe its been distorted or theres a burr or something stopping it seating properly? Again although it has to be corrected the effect is probably small but have you got a running problem?

Of these two issues the most worrying is the vacuum dome as this should have a tightly sealed joint. You should be able to suck on the vacuum connection to it and block it with your tongue so it holds vacuum...

I thought this problem had been resolved and they now come with lower seats. Certainly I replaced mine a while back with items from Paddock and no issues found...

Errr loosen the slide channels as I suggest so the glass moves more easily...

Unfortunately not very clear but this is from one of the manuals Clive mentions. Theres some access holes through the door inner to get to various fixing screws so you can release the channels. I would start with the back one which has two but is also strengthened by that cross wire at the bottom and try to engage the glass correctly...

As the gear is plastic and that sounds metal to metal Im going to go with a motor bearing having collapsed and its rotor is now rubbing against the stator☹️

No this filter doesnt have the correct thread to suit a standard 1500 Spit....

Amazing, seems some people dont know what the oil pressure warning light is for!

Is your oil pressure warning light working? Ive changed mine to a very bright LED bulb... Generally oil pressure is highest when the oil is cold and new then drops as both of these factors change. The other thing that affects oil pressure is the state of the engine. As the crankshaft bearings and/or oil pump wear their clearances increase so leakage makes system pressure drop. Finally oil pressure gauges are also known as 'worry gauges' exactly because they can induce excessive concern😁 They can be quite inaccurate so really youre looking for change in the reading to indicate a problem...

Unfortunately as standard the Stag gearbox input shaft diameter was bigger (1.25") than that of the saloon units (1.00") so the friction plate definitely wont fit....

how long ago did you buy it and how many miles has it done?

Quite often I think the problem is only quality control so you get components like that tensioner which are fine and then a batch which are too hard or too soft! Unfortunately to get them made by a company who will do things better usually means quite an increase in price (especially if not made in a cheaper labour area) and finally the buyers have to be convinced of the improvement...

Trouble is how do you find better quality components like tensioners as few manufacturers so all suppliers often stock the same thing.... Are there any other lower ratio diffs available as thats another way to drop engine revs albeit at a possible cost in acceleration?

Yes heat treatment/material obviously wrong so too brittle. This is a worry with many after market components now as theres no way with out a full laboratory to know if an item matches the correct design spec☹️ Overdrive a personal thing really as depends what speed you tend to cruise at. If you pootle on smaller roads and avoid long motorways runs then the cost/work/added unreliability of overdrive makes it not worthwhile especially if most noise comes from wind rather than engine. There will be slightly less engine wear but thats not a major factor for most people these days and neither is fuel saving which is also pretty much negligible....

Id check on that Paddock product as on the Comma site I cant see it mentions it being recommended for power steering. Also looks like Paddock list GUL355-P for use in power steering and its a different price....

Yes the total thickness of two standard thrust bearings is only around 3/16" so difficult to see how there could be that much play without at least one missing☹️

So did the owner get the car with engine like that or has it happened in his ownership? Has he driven it many miles? How about doing a deal on price with him which depends on the state the engines found to be in?

Yes apparently the block can be damaged beyond economic repair (after all the thrust is taken by the block not the cap). If the crank moves that much the front camchain sprocket will do the same so causing a lot of misalignment of the chain and probably creating the noise you heard. However good that you didnt get the typical bearing rattle - might have caught them in time... Has the owner told you any thing about how the exact progression of the failure?