glang

Why not try it first? Not a major job to install, certainly less than an engine strip, and then you drive it to see what its like. Theres a few easy things you could check before that like compression, crank float and even inspect crank bearings but if all looks good I would whack in new crank oil seals and drive off into the sunset👍

Yes thats the equivalent of the filter that is used on all the Triumph spin on conversions

Well first how about looking at the existing shims? If they are soft you should see an indent in the side operating the valve where the stem has been impacting - otherwise theres no problem and the cause lies elsewhere...

Through hardened can make things quite brittle which is why surface hardening is used. However this only goes to thousanths of an inch depth. If broken through it might explain why Colins gaps keep opening up....

Its ok your mk4 3 rail (FH) has the same ratios as the 1500 single rail unit but Trevs mk3 unit (FD) has a different first gear ratio...

But surface hardened only?

Out of interest what does regrinding the shims involve?

Well I cant see complete kits with that plate but presumably you use it with a standard 1500 diaphragm cover/thrust bearing which hopefully will work with your gearbox. As Clive says would be good to get confirmation from someone knowlegeable...

Oh also be aware that the 1st gear ratio on the mk3 box is lower than the standard unit for the 1500 so with the extra torque it might seem pretty redundant.

Think Wendy has got a bit mixed up but (as discussed on here previously) you need GCP103 which is a 7.25" plate used on US 1500 Spits that for some reason got 3 rail boxes... Clutch Plate -10 spline - 7 1/4 inch Diameter - GCP103 (rimmerbros.com)

Oh yes definitely lots of rag to wipe off all the inside of block and crank before starting work. Then glasses while working👍

Draining sump very good idea but I dont remember having to angle it so steeply as to get residual oil on my head😳

Hi Dave, it was a little while ago now although I remember it wasnt the nicest of jobs but not so much for difficulty as comfort. The car needs to be high enough off the ground for access but you then have to lift engine to get the sump out. This has to clear the oil pump pick up so I released the engine mounts and jacked engine up which was then supported on wood blocks to the chassis. An engine hoist would be better but my method worked so I could then remove the jack and undo the sump. Maintaining cleanliness is not easy but essential. It was well worth doing though as the main bearings were just going through to the copper under layer and its also nice to now have the upgraded oil pump...

oh its definitely single rail, can see that from the photos but unfortunately its not as simple as that especially when Rimmers advertise a 3 rail with a pic of a single rail😯

An update: it looks like the Dolomite 1300 didnt have an option of overdrive and this was only available for the 1500. Are you sure you dont have a 1500 with an engine number starting DM, DS or YC?

Yes you have a later single rail box there but I believe all mkIV Spitfires had 3 rail units although after FH60000 they came with J type rather than D type overdrives. I think that Rimmers link shows the wrong type of gearbox. However could both the engine and gearbox from a Dolomite been used in your car? The single rail is stronger than the other and in overdrive form an inch longer. Im not sure if the ratios were exactly the same but if youve been happy with the way it drives the best is probably to replace like for like. The correct unit is here but even then its not simple because two types of input shaft seals were used, scroll and rubber, and as this is in the bell housing you would probably have to get a box to suit... Triumph Spitfire Gearbox Only - Overdrive Type | Rimmer Bros

Those different props can be ordered from Canleys but as I say you would need to specify the the flanges required at each end. Ive seen new ones with a smaller OD than the originals which looks to be handy in your car... Theres about 1.25" of slide and obviously best to run about half way of that.

Yes UJs should be easy to move in all directions with no notchiness. The standard Herald prop is 50" long and I wonder if yours is a custom item especially as the welding at one end doesnt look original. This page is quite useful: Propshaft Problems : Canley Classics Some kind of axial flexibilty is desirable, although I believe Triumph did have solid ones as well, but be aware different size fixing bolts were used so you have to get a prop that matches both gearbox and diff flanges...

A Herald due to less engine weight should be able to get away with a smaller steering wheel although I suppose thats compensated for by the different rack ratio. Certainly for my Vitesse I wouldnt go less than 14"...

If its solid the risk is that it can apply thrust on the bearings in the gearbox and diff causing their premature failure... It looks like the couplings are not rusted together so you need to lever the engine/gearbox forward slightly to release them. This really needs an assistant with a large lever to get the small movement needed to disengage the flanges.

I take it the prop does have some means of altering its length (sliding joint, flexible coupling etc) and its just the flanges that have stuck together? Sorry no recommendations but be careful as the flanges are easily distorted...

Just thought: are you trying to charge the battery still connected in the car? If so maybe theres a current drain and thats whats upsetting the charger. Try disconnecting the battery completely and charging...

ooooh jump starting gives me the willies these days with modern sensitive and expensive electronics! I worry that you can get voltage spikes and I believe theres car manufacturers now who have specialised procedures for just renewing batteries😯 Then the current draw of charging a flat battery in a car is potentially pretty high which puts a strain on the electrics and certainly isnt good for the battery. Obviously if theres no other choice you do it but better would be gentle recovery with a charger....

Can you try the charger on another battery? It could be a problem with it or maybe the battery is too flat to even be seen as a battery...

The thinking is that this was done to stop confusion on the production line as to which way to install the spring and that theres no difference. However why not put FRONT towards the front of the car?