glang

They dont list any original style m/c but then their website has always been pretty limited....

Well I meant new but even a used 0.75, if good, is worth money. Id like one on my Vitesse but was too tight so went for a Land Rover repro unit for 15quid which does the job well.

Yes all the original type integral big reservoir m/c are rare with the Vitesse 0.7" difficult to find and the last GT6 0.75" like gold dust...

Looks like you need an original from Rimmers then at 114 pounds shown below! The only alternative is a cheapy 5/8 master cylinder available on eBay but the reservoir is clutch size so quite a bit smaller...

check part GMC224 at Rimmers - two versions, expensive and very expensive, but correct....

Everything Clive says on ignition and then have another look at mixture as colourtunes can be pretty ambiguous. You can progressively make the mixture weaker going by how the car drives (bogs down on light throttle when too weak) and plug colour.... Think a rolling road for a standard car really is a hammer for a nut!

Ive used this guy for just spare sensors including free delivery, made an offer which was accepted so not a lot to lose if they fail...

Yes that and the old trick of bags of sand in the back for a couple of thousand miles to flatten the spring out a bit...

It seems to be so variable! Ive got one on my Vitesse and its been fine - certainly got no complaints on the build quality except for the trigger ring from which the top cap came off when trying to pull the ring off the dizzy cam. The magnets flew out and it was quite a job to get them back in the right way round as yes the sensor is north or south pole sensitive.... I can imagine the subject of warranty claims would be difficult as I believe the units can be damaged by reversing the electrical connection but its impossible to prove whether or not this has been done.

Oh the mk2 Vitesse chassis still retains the original telescopic shock mounts does it? Sounds like that GT6 needs a CDD set up😯

Looks like CDD do two types CV and double UJ so I wonder which one it was. Either way I cant see you can avoid the shock bracket conversion on a mk2 Vitesse...

Depends on how you drive of course plus your Ferodos might be original asbestos items which are also very good....

Dont think you can go straight from 14 to 16 as the mounting is different. Best keep it standard but ask Santa for Mintex M1144 pads...

Let us know how you get on with it as its good to hear the successful cases as well! However dont forget that, as with many of our spares these days, a particular item will generally all come from one unknown manufacturer in the far east so no matter who you buy it from in the end the choice comes down to price + service and unfortunately not the quality or suitability of the product☹️

Unless youre thinking of sending the new pump back I would give it a try. You'll know pretty much straight away if its got a problem because the carb will overflow and if not one of the pumps can then be a spare which is always useful to have...

Ahhh Ive worked out its a Tr4 now so yes the fan is on the crank and with rubber bushes so the second part of my previous post applies. You can even get poly bushes now for the fans and although expensive you know they arent going to fall apart in six months like many rubber components available these days....

Which car is this as I thought all the four cylinder models had there fans attached to the water pump and not the crank? As such they dont have the rubber bushes cos the dampening effect isnt required. Have you got some sort of hybrid? With the rubber bushes on the six cylinder cars there should be short metal tubes inside which the fixing bolts tighten up against so although they can perish causing the fan to be loose tightening the bolts usually achieves nothing. Has someone removed the tubes in an attempt to compensate for knackered rubber bushes? If so it needs to remedied or youll lose the dampening effect...

Dont completely follow what youve done with the jump leads but I would do +ve and -ve separately starting with system as normal and not working. Then put jump lead from +ve battery terminal (try to get it onto the actual battery terminal not just the lead terminal) onto the starter motor terminal (again the actual threaded stud). If the engine turns well all the -ve side is proved good but if not repeat the procedure with just one lead but on the -ve side... Coil temperature normal but make sure its connected the right way round: -ve to points/electronic ignition.

Not sure what your is but all our engines have bearings which dont have a reputation for longetivity. The sixes are worse and I read a recommendation years ago that if big ends were changed in time every 40k and mains at 70k the cranks could last indefinitely. However once theres loud knocking the crank is worn and will need regrinding. The good news is that once they reach this level normally the oil pressure drops off considerably because the tolerances have opened up so in your case still having good oil pressure should indicate the problem lies elsewhere.... Have a good look round the engine to make sure nothing is in contact - fan, exhaust etc

Our clutches being hydraulic are usually pretty good - its one of the better Triumph components! Whats yours like on a hill start? You should be able to control engagement pretty well. If not maintenance of the pedal, linkage and hydraulics would be a good start....

Its a real pity you cant get hold of a set of jump leads as these would help you identify the problem much quicker. Remember the high resistance connection could be anywhere in the whole starter circuit which also includes: battery terminals +ve and -ve, earth cable from battery to body connection, both ends of the chassis to engine earth cable (this is usually at the front of the engine). You may think that all of these are ok because other smaller electrical loads like lights and things are working but thats not the case because of the high current the starter draws...

Something to consider is why you would want to increase the size and whether its necessary? Theres various posts on here to support both cases but I would suggest using the wider unit principally increases cooling while driving and indeed, as has been found, can over cool in winter. On the other hand a wider rad probably wont help much when not moving along as some of the coolant will be able to pass through radiator tubes that no longer have airflow from the standard engine fan. So if, as is often the case, you want more cooling under these conditions you would probably need to go to two electric fans so the entire core receives airflow... Is your existing radiator in good condition?

The starter solenoid can indeed be dismantled but is not intended to be as mine was rivetted together. Most people just replace them as not expensive but I took mine apart and flipped over the copper contact bar inside so that the burnt areas were replaced by virgin material. I then reassembled it using small nuts and bolts and its worked well ever since. However as I said in my previous post anywhere with high resistance will generate heat on trying to start so its worth touching each component and connection to feel for this...

Im afraid its not as simple as checking resistance of this circuit unless you have some pretty specialised gear. As the current is so high, in excess of 300amp for example, a resistance of just 3 milli ohms will give a drop of almost 1v plus generate around 300w of heat so the resistance increases rapidly etc.

Wow yes, still going! They were one of the originals and their products should be good (especially at that price)... If you do go for one let us know how it works out👍