glang

Not familiar with bleeding dual systems but believe you have to be careful not to operate the pressure differential switch so best to do with vacuum or pressure bleed as then the pedal doesnt have to operated...

Yes I dont think there are many variations available for the tandem system like those for a single master cylinder. Have the front calipers been rebuilt or replaced recently? There has been a problem with some where the pistons get pulled back too far by the seals which means more pedal travel is required to get them to bite the next time. This has driven people mad trying to find the cause but dont know if it was with your type of calipers...

Ahhh dual circuit makes things a bit more complicated. Air in any system though makes the pedal spongy and you can make it more solid by repeated rapid presses. While poor adjustment of the shoes gives long travel but then solid pedal. Operating hand brake will help in second case but in first pedal will still be spongy....

Cable nothing to do with foot brake. When you apply handbrake slightly the shoes are pulled in closer to drum and the pedal then doesnt need to travel so far to push them fully into contact with drum. This is why the closer you can get the shoes to the drum with their adjuster (not handbrake cable adjuster) the less pedal travel youll have...

Why do back off two clicks? Just adjust until you can still turn the drum without rubbing (in fact I even allow a slight rub just get the shoes as close as possible to the drum). This is the best you can do for the brake pedal and I still wasnt happy so I fitted a larger bore master cylinder. This means pedal push is harder but Im strong and movement is now perfect...

Cable should be slightly slack but the shoes in the drums have to be adjusted as close as possible to the drum inner surface without rubbing. This ensures that on pressing the pedal the rear brakes start to work almost immediately....

Ha yes and also all 3 rail 4 synchro gearboxes that fit the Vitesse/GT6 range have the same ratios so really no problem which one it is...

Is that number stamped (not cast) in the top RH side of the main case? If so rather unusual although it may have had the original number ground off and restamped when reconditioned...

There have been some stories of really poor quality tensioners which of course wear through pretty quickly but dont know what noise that would produce...

As said do the bottom bolt up really gently as it screws into the aluminium bridge piece behind. Unfortunately its the point that is most likely to leak☹️

Looks like it might even be aluminium! No indication of such when driving it?

Thanks but I suppose from what youve said its not the throttle bodies themselves that limit the bhp?

Wow so you went for it Danny! Did they feel like the quality youd expect for that money?

Out of interest were there different throttle bodies for the 150bhp and 125bhp versions?

You know, if youre not worried by originality, the cheap aluminium radiators on ebay (105 pound delivered) are a good option. I have read of quite a few that have been used without problems except the angle of the top pipe isnt 100% correct. This means the top hose has to connect in a slight S shape which is perfectly functional but irritating to some people. Then as we already have alloy components in our engines (thermostat housing, manifold etc) you can continue to use the same coolant as always which is what Ive done for a few years now on my Vitesse with aluminium Honda Civic radiator fitted...

It does have the right hand mounting plate does it? Just it looks like its missing in the photo....

Yes glad its fixed - looks like the way you wired it is exactly the same as the manual shows for a mk1 GT6:

First all a higher pressure rad cap does is allows the temperature and pressure to go higher before opening which can mean people drive the car for longer before the steam release warns them theres a problem! Apparently to improve emissions Triumph wanted the later Spitfires to run hotter so, to avoid the risk of a temperature spike causing the cap to lift (when stopping after a high speed run for example), they used a higher pressure cap. However now most owners like to keep their cars running cooler as this gives a bigger safety margin plus is better for the oil and other components in the engine and surrounding area. This can be done by ensuring the cooling system is clean and using the larger radiator, then the lower pressure cap can be used with no problem... I would now get prices for a recore and compare with that for a new aluminium rad.

Your best off looking at the free to download Triumph workshop manual as it has the wiring diagrams for all models of GT6...

Be interested to know what they say and if theyre going to put an advisory on the advert that heating, bending and relieving is likely to be necessary to get this product to fit🙁

So youre saying spend over 400 quid with this shop, then work hard to straighten the manifold out and not even let them know!

Trouble is if not told companies dont have the chance of correcting the issue for the future sales so quite likely somebody else gets a duff manifold as well☹️

Cant have cheap to buy so wasnt worth going back to said shop? I do believe each has to have the chance to correct things and that is when you know whether to use them again....

Apparently inside they have larger diameter trunnions and more needle rollers than standard. I have seen them down to nearer 20 pounds a throw but difficult to find and probably not necessary for a standard car set up....

Well if youre feeling rich then these (the part number must coincide exactly) from GKN for Land Rover Freelanders are at the pinacle of UJs. Otherwise the standard offering from the same company have a good reputation. Hopefully nobody is doing fakes😨