glang

which cylinder(s) is it? I have read that the manifold doesnt deliver equal flows to each cylinder especially if the casting is poor around the internal dividing points. To solve this some owners modify them but of course this is quite a specialised job which really needs a flow rig. As you say, low compression would give poor combustion...

My take on it Dave is that with severe carb inbalance (think youre right that it has less effect at higher throttle openings) 3 cylinders are doing less work that the other 3 even though all have correctly set mixtures. I cant see this would cause much plug colour difference between the two banks of cylinders which is more likely to be down to the carb mixture adjustments being different. If however you have random plugs with different colours this could be air leaks, valve adjustment/damage or misfiring

Then of course you can get into replacing the sliding plastic buttons between the leaves👍

well I would expect it to be ok until hitting a bigger bump when as you say it could reach the end of travel and produce a pronounced thump....

Wouldnt a worn leaf spring be soft rather than harsh? Of course if excessive it could allow the car to hit the suspension limits but this would be noticeable as thumps going over big bumps...

I would check the rear shocks to see if they have been changed to adjustable ones (have small screw or knob somewhere) as these can cause harshness. The front may have been modified too as spacers (a ring above or below the spring) can be used with stronger springs which will tend to raise the ride height...

I think an Allen head of the right size would do fine and cant see even high tensile is necessary as the bolt only keeps the leaves together during spring assembly and then for installation helps to centre it on the diff. The spring is then clamped to the diff and there will be minimal load on the bolt because its the half shafts that take the side thrust from the wheels...

Like it Rutty and if slipping it needs to be sorted sooner rather than later as it wont do the friction material any good....

Great, while driving it try to get a feel for whether your losing drive (OD slipping) or its just momentarily dropping out into non OD. Unfortunately the symptoms will be very similar but perhaps the first actually causes a drop in speed while the second not? Also the second shouldnt be related to engine load so youll see the revs go up momentarily while just cruising on the flat....

And surely the face has to be flat to seal? That one looks like some pipes protrude through the flange....

Yes could be either but 'happening on hills' sounds more like slipping to me☹️

I think its probably the cone clutch worn and slipping (hope no additive has been used in the oil) but best to check easy stuff first👍

First check gearbox oil level👍

Yes looks like the bearing is held in by the round spring clip which is itself fixed pretty much permanently by punch indentations. You could probably get it apart but then finding a new bearing would be difficult and reassembly even worse. Theres a guy on ebay selling s/h parts of wiper motors and he has the complete base for 21 quid delivered - course have to get him to check that bearing for wear....

Couldnt you tell? The names almost the same in German😂

Maybe an allen socket head bolt would fit?

Would that be to lock the seat down to the rails and then you have to undo them each time someone wants to use the back seat? Im not even sure in the event of a crash the front seats would flip as the force is horizontal to the ground - more worrying would be the engine and gearbox coming backwards😳

My Vitesse has a clip on the frame of the passenger seat that holds it down although it wouldnt be sufficient in an accident. Triumphs idea is that the seatbelt would hold both person and seat if the worst happened...

Yes its actually quite a good thing as it allows the bearing inner race to slowly turn on the stub axle so evenly distributing impact wear from the road. A modern car with fixed bearing races always get the pot hole damage in the same place....

I wonder if the confusion didnt come from an error in the original Triumph manual because, as pointed out earlier in this thread, the max revs it suggests for the test are very strange....

Your old friction plate looks unusual in that its got rivets just inside the inner diameter of the friction material so making it unable to lay flat against the new pressure plate. Normally having a difference in these diameters wouldnt matter as long as all the friction material is covered by the pressure plate so perhaps you need a new friction plate as well. This eBay one at 26 pounds delivered for a Marina 1300 should be useable with the Canleys pressure plate....

Good price but just need the cover now as Canley dont have it in stock. Theres this on ebay or complete clutch kits for 80 pounds delivered and then sell on the unwanted friction plate?

As long as you keep the car and Ive not heard of any failures.....

Depends if youre prepared to take the risk of clutch slip due to the oil contamination? Saying that any oil from the crank seal really does have a difficult route for getting onto the friction plate....

They do them here but yes expensive so you could look at getting the exisiting one refurbished. Saying that it looks in pretty good condition so whats the problem? Clutch Plate Only - GCP244 | Rimmer Bros