glang

Its not really the height is it but the wheel camber that youre trying to achieve? Certainly a 1/2" spacer wont need longer studs...

22 minutes ago, Alex said:

Shorter drive shafts(axle) same spring. 

So they had swing spring with short shafts? Take it the swing spring is the same length as the fixed type then so when used with longer shafts the upright angle must change?

Vic, the biggest block will lower the car by 1" but you will need the 4 longer studs and then, as I say, later the car will probably lower itself more....

It could be true about the first mk4 but I dont think they would have had swing springs then.

I think your spring will settle in time and use but needs a spacer block to really get it how you want it now. Its not a major investment and you might even get it in without removing the spring again... 

Think there was only one length of swing spring for the Spitfire. However I suppose you could have got an uprated one or one for a GT6 - the latter was 6 leaf rather than 5...

Some people just dont appreciate works of art do they...

Meanwhile that should get centre place in the lounge surely!

They dont list any original style m/c but then their website has always been pretty limited....

Well I meant new but even a used 0.75, if good, is worth money. Id like one on my Vitesse but was too tight so went for a Land Rover repro unit for 15quid which does the job well.

Yes all the original type integral big reservoir m/c are rare with the Vitesse 0.7" difficult to find and the last GT6 0.75" like gold dust...

Looks like you need an original from Rimmers then at 114 pounds shown below! The only alternative is a cheapy 5/8 master cylinder available on eBay but the reservoir is clutch size so quite a bit smaller...

check part GMC224 at Rimmers - two versions, expensive and very expensive, but correct....

Everything Clive says on ignition and then have another look at mixture as colourtunes can be pretty ambiguous. You can progressively make the mixture weaker going by how the car drives (bogs down on light throttle when too weak) and plug colour....

Think a rolling road for a standard car really is a hammer for a nut!

Ive used this guy for just spare sensors including free delivery, made an offer which was accepted so not a lot to lose if they fail...

Yes that and the old trick of bags of sand in the back for a couple of thousand miles to flatten the spring out a bit...

It seems to be so variable! Ive got one on my Vitesse and its been fine - certainly got no complaints on the build quality except for the trigger ring from which the top cap came off when trying to pull the ring off the dizzy cam. The magnets flew out and it was quite a job to get them back in the right way round as yes the sensor is north or south pole sensitive....

I can imagine the subject of warranty claims would be difficult as I believe the units can be damaged by reversing the electrical connection but its impossible to prove whether or not this has been done.

Oh the mk2 Vitesse chassis still retains the original telescopic shock mounts does it? Sounds like that GT6 needs a CDD set up😯

Looks like CDD do two types CV and double UJ so I wonder which one it was. Either way I cant see you can avoid the shock bracket conversion on a mk2 Vitesse...

Depends on how you drive of course plus your Ferodos might be original asbestos items which are also very good....

Dont think you can go straight from 14 to 16 as the mounting is different. Best keep it standard but ask Santa for Mintex M1144 pads...

Let us know how you get on with it as its good to hear the successful cases as well! However dont forget that, as with many of our spares these days, a particular item will generally all come from one unknown manufacturer in the far east so no matter who you buy it from in the end the choice comes down to price + service and unfortunately not the quality or suitability of the product☹️

Unless youre thinking of sending the new pump back I would give it a try. You'll know pretty much straight away if its got a problem because the carb will overflow and if not one of the pumps can then be a spare which is always useful to have...

Ahhh Ive worked out its a Tr4 now so yes the fan is on the crank and with rubber bushes so the second part of my previous post applies.

You can even get poly bushes now for the fans and although expensive you know they arent going to fall apart in six months like many rubber components available these days....

Which car is this as I thought all the four cylinder models had there fans attached to the water pump and not the crank? As such they dont have the rubber bushes cos the dampening effect isnt required. Have you got some sort of hybrid?

With the rubber bushes on the six cylinder cars there should be short metal tubes inside which the fixing bolts tighten up against so although they can perish causing the fan to be loose tightening the bolts usually achieves nothing. Has someone removed the tubes in an attempt to compensate for knackered rubber bushes? If so it needs to remedied or youll lose the dampening effect...

Dont completely follow what youve done with the jump leads but I would do +ve and -ve separately starting with system as normal and not working. Then put jump lead from +ve battery terminal (try to get it onto the actual battery terminal not just the lead terminal) onto the starter motor terminal (again the actual threaded stud). If the engine turns well all the -ve side is proved good but if not repeat the procedure with just one lead but on the -ve side...

Coil temperature normal but make sure its connected the right way round: -ve to points/electronic ignition.

12 hours ago, Boxofbits said:

When warming the engine up afterwards, I noticed quite a loud ‘clattering’ noise which comes in at about 3,000 RPM. This is with the car stationary so not under load. Oil pressure and temperature look normal and neither wildly fluctuate, so I’ve tentatively ruled out big ends or mains, for the moment, though still could be but I do hope not as I can’t see I can take the engine out and rebuild it before next week!

I haven’t ruled out a load of other things like timing chain tensioner, cam followers etc. Does this engine have a ‘known’ weakness which might cause this? Your thoughts please!

Kevin

Not sure what your is but all our engines have bearings which dont have a reputation for longetivity. The sixes are worse and I read a recommendation years ago that if big ends were changed in time every 40k and mains at 70k the cranks could last indefinitely. However once theres loud knocking the crank is worn and will need regrinding. The good news is that once they reach this level normally the oil pressure drops off considerably because the tolerances have opened up so in your case still having good oil pressure should indicate the problem lies elsewhere....

Have a good look round the engine to make sure nothing is in contact - fan, exhaust etc