Antonnick

I am just starting to install a new Mohair hood to my Herald - just laying it over the newly painted frame makes the car look really good. However the webbing straps at the rear tub were always flapping about and I cannot see where they may have been fitted using the retaining plates i.e there are no tell tale holes already. The manual does not give any actual details. At the moment I intend to bolt or rivet them to the rear tub but is there a proper position does anybody know?

Anti-climax. The new pump with a manuallever arrived today. I took the old one off and thought it might be an idea to test it anyway. So I connected up a tube to the inlet and pumped it using the camlever from a petrol cannister. It worked extremely well and pushed a torrent of fuel out. Obviously nothing wrong there. So I refitted it and tried again - the engine sprung into life after only a few seconds. So what was wrong before? I suspect that the inlet hose was not sufficiently tight as it was very easy to disconnect and as such the pump in prime modus operation was perhaps sucking in air and not fuel. My incompetenz knows no limits. 😐 The new fuel pump I will keep as a spare for the future.

Many thanks everyone. I will get a new replacement one then, they are not that expensive and see how it goes. I also do not like the idea of using an electric pump, unless really necessary - it just does not look right. Edit: Nearly forgot - my existing does not have a priming lever

My 13/60 runs well and starts first time if the motor has run the day before. But after a week it has to be turned over a few times before firing up and running. Leave it idle for a month and it will not start at all and I have to gravity feed from a canister to start. After replacing everything is fine again. The replacement kit is apparantly only suitable for original fuel pumps not after market. On another thread, I think it was the experienced Rob Pearce who remarked that pumps with a narrow arm are after market and that is what I have. What to do? My German supplier recommends using an elektric pump as he says, the after market mechanical ones are so unreliable, he will not offer them any more. Is this the only solution these days?

that is super advice - MG seats are an idea. What though in MX-5 tombstone? A brand name?

i have recovered the seats on my 13/60 and have to say, they look very nice. However on long journeys, which with confidence in the mechanics etc I now undertake, they are quite uncomfortable - no head support for example. Has anyone used any modern car seat replacements or other means , i would like to know?

UNF sizes are not readily stocked by Auto houses hi r in Germany ( metric sizes only) but at the same time not impossible to source from speciialists through ebay - my order is expected to arrive tomorrow.

Thankyou to you both. As much as I would like to, ordering spares from GB after Brexit is a lottery in terms of cost and time to Germany and only done now as a last option.. Fortunately I can get Imperial sizes for most things locally, also - it is just knowing what the size is! Many thanks.

A simple problem which I cannot solve without the necessary info. The oil nipple on my herald 13/60 - I want to oil up the trunnions and need to replace it with a 90 or45° grease nipple. But what is the thread size? I fear it is UNF?

No problem Mr Glang - you cannot be in a position to actually see with your own eyes what is going on in the depths of my car engine! Anyway, I have put everything back together and will see what happens. I used a new gasket for the timing cover of course but I also smeared it with the blue sealing stuff for good measure. I did inspect the cover flange which seemed to be in reasonable condition. It is also good to know that the bolts now screwed into the steel sealing block can be done up really tightly. It might be that there is also oil leaking from the base of the distributor or even the oil pressure relief valve. I have cleaned up the area around these points and will observe.......

As the pulley has been off before, it did not need an extractor and has saved me the task of removing the radiator and all that involves. I was able to ease it off. Thence I took off the timing chain cover and cleaned up the mating surface. It was also possible to tighten up the 4 bolts which secure the front engine plate at the lower level which hopefully, will tighten up the gasket as well. With a new gasket + sealer I will replace the cover tomorrow. Not an easy task I know from before trying to line it up and hold the tensioner in place at the same time. The wooden filler pieces and gaskets I did before and it does not seem to be leaking there - I am not going to remove the sealing block for the time being.

100% certain it is not - there is absolutely no sign at all of any oil around the oil seal - that was actually the first thing I checked. Am just in the process now of taking off the timing chain cover.

Two years ago, with much help and advice here on the Forum I replaced the Crankshaft on my Herald 13/60 in order to get rid of the engine rumbling. After reinstalling the engine, the front end developed an anoying oil leak. The old Alu sealing block I then replaced in-situ with a steel one. It still leaks but not as much as before. I want to seal it once and for all. I suspect the gaskets both of the front engine plate as well as the timing cover , being oil soaked from before are allowing oil to escape even though the sump and steel sealing block bolts are tightened up well. I can remove and replace the timing chain cover gasket with a new one no problem but I do not relish the idea of having to remove the timing chain and gear wheels again, the front engine plate and gasket whilst the engine is still in the car. Is there another way? Am I being too pessimistic about this front engine plate gasket leakage?

A ca. 3200km round trip that you will all be doing sounds quite a challenge - wish everyone the best of luck and enjoyment. Having, with much helpful advice from Club members hier, got my Triumph Herald running happily with no unpleasant noises, we will be travelling down to Italy leaving central Germany just about the time when you all will have completed the run. Our trip, I know from before is 1000 km there and back and with trips along the via Aurelia in the Costa del Fiore, which I am especailly looking forward to. For the remaining few days at the beginning October we will then travel to a friends house near to Sarzana in the Toskana. Altogether this will also be about 3200km at the end of it, if the car completes the trip. My breakdown premium to the ADAC is fully paid in, just in case. What essential spares do you all bring with you?

With an amount of nervousness I have just made a 10km test drive after refitting the left hand half shaft assembly....again! I did take the half shaft to a retired motor mechanic as I could not get one of the cups to seat properly in the vice. I explained to him that I was worried that one of the needle bearings had become loose. He looked at the assembly and shook his head telling me that if that was the case then you would see something or other. I did not really understand but he proceeded to hit the cup that was not in far enough with a round chisel and persuader hammer and then the circlip fitted ok. I was skeptisch However the test drive revealed that the noise has gone! No more clack-clack to be heard. Rob Pearce, Glang, JeffDs were right all along and that without being able to either hear or see the problem. Respekt! And many many thanks. Antonia

Hallo Paul - that is a good tipp! Thankyou.

I am a fool. I ignored the advice and...... refitted the half shaft even though I could see that one of the circlips was not really seated properly in the yoke. Result - bang-bang-bang afte only a few metres driving. Took the half shaft assembly off again yesterday. The clip that was not seated properly had come off of course and is lying on the road somewhere. Yes Mr Glang was right again ( and Jeffds as well) One of the needle bearings in a cup had misplaced itself preventing the cup being fully home. I have now spent all morning trying to fit the UJ into the yoke again. Every time some needles became loose preventing proper seating. Eventually I took off two of the cups from the second UJ spare I had purchased and fitted them...very very carefully and at last the joint is in the yoke properly with no play noticable and no turning of the cups when moving the flange piece. When I think that I had replaced already 3 UJs before , with no problem..... Incidentally , I ran the motor in second gear on the lift with the LHS half shaft removed - no noise from the diff or anywhere else. But of course, it was not under load. So that is the yoke done. I am wondering whether the same thing has happened on the flange piece. Not quite sure but maybe one of the circlips is not quite in the groove.?

oh dear. Ok I will try again.

Perhaps I left a wrong impression? The cups did need pressure to drive them into the halfshaft yoke but once in, one cup continued to turn inside the yoke. I noticed then, that on one side the cup is not fully home to even allow the circlip to seat itself properly. DEspite a lot of pressure in the vice, I cannot compress it enough to get the circlip into its recess. This is the same on the flange side. I am wondering whether the UJ I am using is the right one? Maybe I need to more pressure somehow?

In light of the comments above, I made another inspection of the half shaft assembly on the bench. Firstly I had been pumping grease into the wheel bearing regularly since I got the car 5 years ago. There is a huge mass accumulated there now to clean up The bearing turns very freely with no hard spot or other hindrances or noises, But........I checked the UJ again. I can just perceive a slight, very slight play on that part of the UJ which is attached to the half shaft itself. So I decided to change it, I have a new spare. Removing the UJ from the half shaft yoke ( this is the right name?) was very easy. It was extremely loose. The flange attachment piece was not so easy. I am using a vice with sockets method. Again replacing the new UJ was easy to the half shaft and when installed, as suggested by Glang before, it turned easily which is obviously wrong. So I have put in some 0,2mm 24 dia washers behind the circlips on each side until it does not turn in the yoke any more. So I am right back to the beginning of the thread from 2011. At the moment I am trying to compress the UJ enough to install both circlips in the flange element piece. Am having trouble here, one is in but the other side cup is not in far enough to expose the groove and allow the circlip to be installed. I have left it compressed in the vice overnight and try again in the morning. We say in German, " nicht den Tag vor dem Abend loben" , but I am cautiously optimistic that after all the fuss and trials and my speculation about the diff etc that indeed this IS the solution.

Yes yes yes!! that is exactly my noise but ... I took the left hand half shaft off yesterday to inspect the UJ. This showed no play at all. the only thing of note was that one way was very free to move and the other a bit stiff. Still free moving though. The wheel bearing makes no noise at all and exhibits no roughness in turning like Jeffds describes. However, with the car in the air and the engine running, in second gear, you can see the whole brake drum wobble as if the half shaft were bent. Having taken it off though, I see no evidence that it is. Edit: I see in jeffs Video, the wheel wobbles a bit as well. I have used a stethescope. The problem with this is that I could hear the bonk bonk sound whereever I put it. I thought perhaps it was the wheel bearing because that was quite prominent. Now the left side is off, when the car is running in second gear on the lift, there is no loud sound anymore but I think I can hear with the stethescope the outer bearing on the diff where the half shaft was on. The diff does have a lot of free play in it for my taste. Much more than the old 4,11 version I took off which is still on the shelf. What to do? Given that the UJ seems ok, it makes no sense to replace it - I showed it to an experienced auto mechanic and he agreed. Try and exchange the outer diff shaft with that from my existing 4,11 diff, refit the wheel half shaft and see? Trouble is the old flange arrangement would need changing. 😑 exchange for a new recon diff?

It really should not be bad as I renovated the half shafts ( but not the wheel bearings) and installed new UJs all round. The diff is second hand, having bought a 3,63 to replace the 4,11 which of course, needed brand new flange yokes on the half shafts to match. Since being installed, it has done about 6400km without a sound. It is possible that I managed to botch the needle bearings when installing the UJs at the time. I am quite talented at botching! I will try to ask the garage man for his opinion. I do not mind what it is that needs doing, whether new UJs or indeed an exchange diff but it is knowing what the culprit is, that is the problem.

click or clonk? My noise is similar to this YT Video

Failed....................fitted 0,2mm 24mm dia washer to all the UJs - no difference to the clonk-clonk which is coming from somewhere behind me as I drive but where?

Measured with feeler gauges and certainly there were gaps so with the help of the washers the circlips were replaced. Have ruled out the propshaft now - with the car in gear on the lift , the propshaft cannot move but in turning by hand the noise did not go away. With high hopes, went on a long test run after putting in the washers, but no change however, the noise is still there, perhaps worse than before. .... Certainly the clonk-clonk is only present on left turns. I think I will remove a brake drum and have a look .