Antonnick

Thankyou to you both! The propshaft has now been in position for ca. 4000km. Today I put the car on the lift and had a good listen underneath trying to locate the noise. I can hear it now when the wheels are turned by hand . My neighbour helped to do this. It is not so easy to locate the source as the diff tends to clonk as well. Am tending towards the UJ at the diff /propshaft because the noise is still there when one wheel is isolated. I have ordered some thin washers of 0,1; 0,2 and 0,5 mm available as 22mm dia ( I measured the UJ opening at 23mm) . On the German forum it was suggested that any gap between the circlip and the cap can be attempted to measure with feeler gauges. This i must also try but before using a G clamp to perhaps push the cups inwards. Have another go tomorrow

All three UJs are very new - I am still not sure whether the clicking is from the half shafts or the propshaft. I say this because the clicking seems to me to be quicker than the wheels rotate but am not 100% sure. I remember when the new diff was installed, it took quite a bit of pressure to fit the propshaft as it seemed too long. I had to lever the diff rearwards in order to fit the propshaft. It is the straps type and they are now bent back in usage I notice. I am wondering whether there is a lot of pressure on the UJ and that is why something has perhaps happened? Cannot see any visible signs of any problem though - everything looks new. But as mentioned before, not at all certain that this is the case. the question is how to localise the noise? I have tried spinning the wheels with the car on the ramp and also in second gear with the motor running - even underneath the car, I hear nothing. Probably only when the wheels are under load and not lowered. A bit frustrating really. If I do need thicker Circlips - where can I get them from? Imperial sizes would be difficult to get here

Back from holiday this week so I jacked up the car on the scissor lift and inspected the UJs - turned the wheels by hand as quickly as I could. All seems fine. It occured to me, how do you tell if the UJs are moving in themselves in order to decide if a thicker circlip is needed? At the moment I am wondering about the diff , which has a certain amount of backlash which may also cause the noise?

This is an old thread but thanks to the search may be the answer to the "clicking" sound my 13/60 Herald Cabrio has. All the rear UJs are new because I replaced the standard diff with a 3,7 version and the flanges are different. I had no idea that circlips are in different sizes but now i can check to see if that is really the problem. Thankyou club T

Thankyou RobPearce, that is what I needed to know. Now I must work out how to achieve it. 😐 I think the problem is enhanced by the loose "latch pin" as you call it. I discovered after removing the lock mechanism to clean it that the inside splayed rivet was broken in several places allowing the pin to wobble about a lot. So I drilled and tapped 3mm and placed a large washer ( not seen in the pic as this was the second attempt) and bolted this up. It seems to have worked and the pin is a lot stiffer. Also there is no wedge any more on this side - I will try and make one using the left side one as a template. Fortunately I have got hold of new hinges with no play in them at all. Heavy snowfall today, so will try in the next days.

I have been searching the forum for this informations. I see it was a few years ago - I have borrowed the image above inorder to explain my problem. When I close the right hand door , it does not lock. the door is flush and I have tried to adjust the striker plate with only limited results .i.e sometimes the door stays shut, sometimes it flies open. I am trying to work out what should happen when the door is closed. REfering to the copied picture . Is it correct, that when closing the door, the catch rod on the door mechanism ( horizontal arrow) strikes the striker plate and thengoes downwards ( vertical arrow)? The spring on the door catch mechanism seems to be intended to pull in both directions. i.e catch up and down.

I am sorry, I do not know what lateral flow is! 🤥 In general PCR tests are required if no booster vaccination has been done. It is for us an either/or. also important is that the vaccination is less than one year old. Presently such testing stations are plentiful but are being wound down. In essence very confusing I know.

It would be nice to hear if you all do decide on a trip and to read about it afterwards. This year we are planning to use the 13/60 to go to Italy in stages. Firstly the 360km to Freiburg in Breisgau, then LAgo Maggiore about 300km and thence to our destination in Dolcedo where we have a small house. It always needs renovating a´bit after the winter. Plan is to stay 10 days and then in easy stages back. If that does not happen, then a round trip to England for a week, thence Ireland and back on the long ferry direct to France. It is nice to have an ambition.

"Singen in the rain" -always makes me smile. In answer to your question, the Bundesrepublik is planning to lift all restrictions as of 20 March. This was confirmed today but owing to the very high, actually record incidence of new infections this may change. As Germany is a federal country the individual states, in this case Badem-Württemberg, have singular resposibility and can also amend their rules. Presently here in Hessen , the 3g rule applies to hotels, ie. twice innoculated plus booster or PCR test. Mask wearing of the FFP3 type is mandatory indoors. ZZ_Corona_Regeln_Auf_einen_Blick_DE.pdf (baden-wuerttemberg.de) hope this helps Antonia

I have come back to this topic. Has anyone had problems with the rubber diaphragm? i have installed it in both seats and even before anyone has sat on it, the rubber has split at the sides. I was wondering whether the seats are wider than they should be as standard? No, that cannot be - all the foam covers fit. Actually on my old Morris Minor, had the same problem with the rubber splitting but that was after they were in use. I installed some of the spare straps from the squab as support but it is of course a bodge. I have complained to the supplier but that is not going to help much.

To tidy up the thread. I had to cut the spring "cushion" away from the squab frame - it would not let itself be pulled out. Thence I installed the and glued the new foam cushion to the frame before wrapping it with thin plastic food wrapping and then pulling the new vinyl squab over it. The straps had to have new holes drilled into the frame but that was quite easy. The new foam cushion with its wings would have been far too bulky with the spring "cushion" also in place to be able to fit the vinyl squab cover. @ Glang - yes there was a foam stuff over the spring but I have discarded it. It was ok but I wanted eveything new.

Just to tidy up the thread - I have used windscreen sealant instead of the rubber strip and it seems to be holding well...so far.

Yes Rosbif and thankyou for the diagramme - I see the seat frame is exactly the same as mine but the vinyl covers had the earlier pattern and the spring mattress on the squab. What I am going to do is to attempt to fit the squab over the springs and see what it feels like. I can always later cut the springs away ( they are welded to the frame) and fit the straps.

Yes, I removed the rubber Diaphragm from the seat area. It did not look too old. Also the refurb kit includes the straps for the squab so I could completely remove the springs and use them. Whether that is better or not??

I have decided to redo the front seats on my Triumph Herald 13/60 of 1970 vintage. The existing vinyl covers display the pattern of an earlier model but I have assumed that the basic frame design is the same. It could be that someone previously recovered the seats with old covers, who knows? Anyway on striping all the old foam etc off I found this. ( pls see attachment) The squab has an inbuilt metal spring arrangement. It is in quite good condition actually. Is this how how earlier models were made or have I got a hybrid? The refurbishment kit comes with its own foam infill but should I cut the spring mattress out and use the modern foam or leave it as it is? What advice can someone give?

ah Kapito, thankyou.

Thanks for the tips. I do not understand the methodology of the mole grips - you cannot leave them in place.....? The rubber is standard new. I also thought about the vertical runners being straight enough and I did inspect them for straightness before and indeed have installed the new glide linings in the rails - from Woolies I think. I think I will try to glue the glass to the rubber seal , the next time it slips out.

On my Herald 13/60 of 1970 I have, amongst many other things done a lot of work on the doors. They still do not really close properly without violence; the gaps are awful but at least are now rust free and painted nicely inside and out- even the glass seals, inside and out are like new but....... I have had to be continually replacing on my drivers side ( left side) the glass because it slips out of the channel when winding down. There is a bit of a tight spot about one third down and that is the problem. Both slide rails have new linings fitted. I have just now used some talc on the rails to allow the glass to slide better. Hopefully anyway. The rubber which fits into the holding channel is difficult to get right but works OK on the RHS so why not on the left? I did notice when dismantling everything that previous owner(s) had smeared silikon to the rubber, presumably to stop the glass sliding out so I assume it is not particulary my incompetence but has anyone got any better ideas?

A bit embarassing really - upon reconnecting everything it and after a short run to warm the engine up - one of the hose clips to the heater unit was faulty. It appeared to be very tight but in fact had an obstruction in the mechanism and did not adequately secure the heater hose - hence the leak. Oh well, at least I was able to clean everything inside the heater unit 😑

Ok, thankyou Glang. The leak is most defiantely coming from the O ring and perhaps if I had known this before, it would have saved me the trouble of dismantling the whole heater unit. But never mind, it meant I could clean it up a bit. The leak was very small but I found that after maybe two weeks there was a drop in the coolant level of the radiator and some wetness inside the car at the air distribution unit. Perhaps the flange nuts were not tight enough - at least I know for certain the heat exchanger is not leaking

After removing the whole heater unit to test the heat exchanger for water tightness, I am now sure that the very minor water loss is where the rubber sealing ring is fitted. Before I refit everything - should or rather can the Rubber O ring be smeared with something to help it seal. Grease, vaseline, ????

Thanks for that - the tester also said he needs "noise levels". But it is ok now - I have ordered the DAtenblatt.

My 13/60 used to do this but after regrinding of the Crankshaft and refitting, it does not do this any more. Moreover the oil pressure is phenomenal.