Antonnick

Thanks Ferny - probably not because the tests are not certified. There are Data that you can download which quotes the top speed as 84 mph - sometimes 85. All theoretical nonsense to me as I do not drive it that fast. Later today I had an email from the tester saying the TüV Datenblatt , which he can use, costs €100 so probably I will go for that pending no other official Triumph info. It is easier.

Yes the test is for the TüV. It is a "Vollübernahme nach StVo 21 und 23". In other words a full technical report that the authorities need to enable it to be registered , and as an historic vehicle. The TüV do have a "Datenblatt" on a 13/60 but as a "mafia" type organisation they demand up to €300 for the info. The tester did not mention the tyres or other details and sees happy with the car itself, just the documentation to cover it. He mentioned also the noise levels, stationary and at a given speed.

It is not a problem I know hat you in GB have but I need for the official acceptance of my Herald 13/60 an equally official Technical Data. The maximum speed of 84mph needs to be quoted somewhere, for example. I have the workshop manual a well as the handbook . There is a lot of info there but not max speed. At least I cannot find it. Does such a document exist on the web, does anyone know? I have found some independant sources but my tester says he canot use this data as it is not from the manuafacturer.

I have renovated the entire brake system on my Herald 13/60. Rear brakes and drums completly new. On the front , have installed new pistons in the calipers, new hoses new brake pads. Brake master cylinder with new seals. Even so, I cannot get the wheels to lock if braking hard so have the feeling that if I did need to stop in an emergency, it would not. I thought perhaps that using new EBC green brake pads would improve matters but not. Perhaps they are not meant for standard calipers? Any ideas?

Do the front Herald 13/60 coil springs get weaker with age? I need to replace the shock absorbers on mine because they look terrible from leakage. In doing so I have ordered new springs. It seems though that original springs are no longar avaialbe and the type which is , is for a Spitfire. A spitfire weighs much less than a Herald. Whilst waiting for them to arrive I have used the opportunity to not only clean up the suspension and paint it, but also the old springs . I think I may end up resuing them as they measure the correct amount i.e. 317 mm. Is this normal practice and are the standard Spitfire ones acceptable?

I did think this already but many thanks for the confirmation. It is a legal requirement hier in Germany to stamp the commission number on a permanent part. I do have some stamps and although you can do the aluminium easily , even with a big persueder, the hard metal of the chassis frame is hardly scratched. 😐.

Also a sunny day in Amöneberg, Hessen

A propos numbers - did Triumph ever stamp the commission number direct onto the chassis itself? If so where?

Mannol - I am sorry, I do not know. I use mostly LiquiMoly-

Only good German oil.........😀 ...but now the brakes pull to the left so that will need investigating.

That is very reassuring, thankyou both. The gauge is a standard mechanical one i.e. a braided oil pipe connects up to it. On this very sunny day, we are off to Amöneburg in an hour or so which is about 70km away and a very picturesque town . Should be a good test run.

From the old Forum I described how I had a strange rumbling from the Engine of my 13/60 Herald when trying to accelerate from 70 kmh. I had some very useful tips and in the end, fitted a recon Crank which cured the problem - also cured the clonking after a cold start. Very pleased. When I got the car originally and fitted an oil pressure gauge, the pressure was indeed very low when warmed up. about 35psi at 80kmh and about 10 to 15 psi on tickover. I fitted a new oil pump and the values were normalish 20psi on tickover and a bit over 40 at 80kmh. Now ! With the new crank, even with the engine warmed up totally I get 80psi at 80kmh and 35 at tickover. Also when cold, the maximum of also just over 80 psi so I presume this is the relief valve cutting in - that I also had renewed. . This is way over the Triumph recommended 40-60 psi in the manual. Should I be concerned or just be grateful?

We are planning to go to Ligurien in Italy from 4 June. Of course getting there is much easier and shorter from Germany than it is from the UK. I understand that a proof on innoculation ( both jabs) will be required to both trravel through Switzerland and then into Italy itself- Looking foreward to the trip which will be the first long one since my Herald has had its new Crank installed. Have been making some local round trips and short Autobahn high speed trials to test its reliability. Ich freue mich, sono contenta

This is it

A steering rack for  a RHD drive ? - I think I have still got the old one somewhere in the hut when I replaced it with a LHD one. I will have a look and post a pic. 

This I have done already. The footwell on the inside of the car is in good condition and had only minmal  surface rust on it which was easily brushed off and painted. I can see now where it had been welded at the sides and when it was put in, it was pushed into the existing floorpan and fixed/glued with silicon before welding at the sides.  The original floor pan was rusting away and had some holes in it. As the whole lot was covered with a thick layer of underbody sealer, I only discovered the rust patches when scraping the sealer away. Now I have now decided to cut the whole original pan out from underneath the car ( did that yesterday) and will reseal the "new" floorpan from underneath as well. I am happy with that and hopefully the TüV inspector will be as well. A

That is good thankyou fo rthe confirmation. I need to decide whether to repair the underside with a patch or cut it away altogether.  Will have a think

I have a rusted area underneath the car (1970 13/30 Cabrio) which when trying to poke a rod into does not go through the floor  to where my feet would be but is blocked by more steel. I have cut out the rusted area and exposed an inner floor pan.  Question. Is the original floor pan a double skin or Has a separate repair panel been welded on the inside of the car in the past?   Thankyou Antonia

there are some good information videos in U tube to be seen. A complete vitesse restauration for example https://youtu.be/C-mqvxSuLJk?list=PLj9GWtoWPbyAxXxbp5PPrwKA9HpJLX4BC   i found some great tips here esp with the doors

Looks a nice example although no pics of the chassis and it has a 1296 engine-

There cannot be that many 1200 Herald available these days, or not?

I was stopped a few years ago by the Wachpolizei because I had fog lights on in daytime. I had switched them on whilst driving on the Autobahn in very heavy rain. As a result I was fined €10 with the comment that " the lights dazzle oncoming motorists".  I am never dazzled by fog lights whether in daytime or at night - do others have the same expereince? Antonia

last trip this year - it is nice to be underway again

have just returned from a 40km trip. Very pleased to report that not only the knocking for a few seconds during a cold start is gone but the annoying rumble on accelerating at 70kmh + is also gone. So it was the the crankshaft at fault.  the oil prssure is phenominal. It hovers at 90 psi for a long time and even at low revs it is about 60 psi. I forgot to look during tickover.  so I suppose this thread is now finished. Many  many thanks for all the hints and tips and help.  gruß und bleib Gesund Antonia

I do not know yet. the engine has only been running a few minutes, enough to drive the car from the workshop ( the barn!) to my Garage, a distance of 100m only. The oil pressure goes up to 80psi on revving a bit , which it did before after a new oil pump was fitted, the real test of course will be when the motor gets hot.