1967 MkIII
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Everything posted by 1967 MkIII
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Interesting discussion as I have the same situation. I'm just about to soda blast the entire body inside & out to see what problems there are before repairing/replacing. Problem is that the bootlid which has been already stripped 3 weeks ago already has a rash of very light surface rust. The entire body will take at least 6-8 weeks till it's ready to spray. Now I'm thinking if I etch or prime it & then sand that off, I might as well leave it as is and sand off the light rust. I know the problem might be if the repair work takes longer but if that looks like happening then I'll change tack. Cheers Steve
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I put Spax adjustables on the rear 2 years ago but TBH I just left them at the midway point :B I now got ride & height adjsutable for the front and can't wait to have them on.. still a while though as the rebuild is ongoing...
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on a more cheerful note, i did get some goodies in the post :)
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boot lid finally back from soda blasting. looks like the lace my island is famed for.... the whole car goes in week after next... gulp!
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piccies. I love the sleek look without windscreen.
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So I've now stripped the car almost entirely. All that's left is enough to drive her to the mechanic - steering wheel & pedals. Plan is to remove the engine at a mechanic (have no lift nor space for it in my garage) then take it to be sodablasted. It's not free but should be worth it as any rust will emerge and can be dealt with. I've learned a bit more about Lucy as I stripped her. There were confetti under the carpets - remnants of a past wedding getaway? 2 receipts found in the door (how??) but too faded to read anything. Anyway it has sparked my interest so I'm asking whether anyone on here remembers a LCY 420E - Royal blue with black interior & tan hood. Pics to follow later. Thanks Steve
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So far the wires look fine but the plastic protecting the connectors is stiff and brittle, several break at a light touch. i already have a separate relay for the headlamps as i wanted brighter lights, however what else does a spitty need relays for? i'll be wiring in a radio & speakers, and a fag lighter for GPS use. All help appreciated as electrickery is not my thing. Thanks
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I'll be dismantling the dashboard next. I'm wondering whether to replace all wiring or keep what I have. I haven't had any electric problems yet however they will turn 46 years old this year so may be worth doing once I've easy access. When looking at the parts I dismantle, what am I looking for to gauge general condition? Thanks
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When I bought Lucy in 2010 it was obvious that this wing had seen some bodged up repair (first 2 pics), and to be fair the chap I bought it off warned me about it and was reflected in the price I paid for it. After attacking the pasted and fibreglassed area with a screwdriver more was revealed. Not too concerned as I've got a replacement panel since I was doubtful the particular curves and angle would ever be faithfully repaired. If the inner arch is gone, the panel beater will just have to form the necessary out of sheet. Out of a cruel sense of curiosity I might ask the sandblaster to do this area just to see how much damage there really is.
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The doors look better than I hoped, especially since every time I close my door some water jumps out of the window channel (yes , in Malta...) The panel beater was not fazed by the part where the skin has cracked away. I already have a replacement door bought from Cai in Belgium a while ago, but of course would prefer to save the original if I can.
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pic below is inside the boot looking out backwards and to the right hand side of the car, behind the lights. not so pretty here, looks like some one previously has been busy with the fibreglass. I'll know the extent of the damage when the sandblasting is done.
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Evening all The time has finally come to give Lucy the proper restoration she deserves. I've been meaning to do it for a while, and did part of the mechanicals 2 winters ago, but various bits of life interfered with it, such as having a first baby (a real one, not another Triumph), relocating to Malta, and lastly redundancy. Although I planned to do much of the work myself, limited time available means I need to hand over some parts and pay for them or face a car that is either rotting away quietly under my feet or a forgotten project in the garage. I managed to find an old school panel beater who believes in repair rather than replace (a man after my heart). Some time next week i'll take her to be sandblasted and we'll take any repairs from there. So far it doesn't seem too bad apart from a couple of spots, namely the front valance which has rotted away and must be replaced, and the nearside rear wing, more to follow. Today I just did some light stripping (of the car!) removed the panel in the boot that covers the fuel tank, door cards and the carpet under the seats. Some pics: The worst bit in the boot seems to be the foot of the spare wheel mount.
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makes sense, thanks guys.
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I need to replace the clutch, can I just replace the pressure plate (GCP230) or do I need a full kit (GCK160) ? Thanks Steve Restoratin on Lucy about to start soon, will start a thread for it
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You guys are doing a fantastic job, hats off! truly inspirational stuff
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Wow Shaun that's an excellent job you're doing, well done! I now wish I hadn't left Luxembourg as you would have been volunteered for another Mk3 project :P Steve
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Thanks JensH I'll start with one panel and see from there whether I'll continue myself or go to the pro's! Clifty - i meant to add this link but in jest :) I'll go for the Tama as u recommend http://www.mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/Misc/joddler/words.html
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cliftyhanger wrote:I would also recommend a hole punch/joddler as it saves all that drilling for the plug welds. Not cheap, but so worthwhile. The joddler can be handy for repair panels too. eg: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Standard-Joddler-Joggler-Edge-Stepping-Tool-/260531537874?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3ca8e3c7d2 Thanks clifty. JOddler looks the tool for the job, thanks as i'd not heard of it before. Also came across this cheaper version :) though i'll go for the real thing
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Thanks for all the replies, good direction for more research from my side
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Thanks for this, really good site! I always thought the G in MIG was gas... :B
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Evening all This winter I'm going to restore my Spitfire wihich mostly means new outer panels as the existing ones are either rusted through or dented in many areas. I'll get a pro to do serious bits like sills etc but I'm wondering how panels are spot welded together to see whether I can do it myself. I've some experience with arc welding but so far I've only done fairly chunky iron bits for home or garage projects. Can I use an arc welder on a lower setting or is a different type of welding used? Any tips appreciated as always! Thanks Steve
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This winter I'll be restoring the bodywork plus overhaul the front end mechanicals. I need a new clutch but as I've a 1500 engine fitted in a Mk3 I'm not sure which gearbox I have. It's got overdrive but again I don't know which type. Is there a part no. stamped anywhere on the gearbox? Thanks Steve
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Well done Sir, truly impressive! is this the fastest rebuild in history? To get the wheels more straight just roll the chassis forward and back a couple of feet, i suppose some weight would help. Not a worry though, it will settle in fine when you fire her up the first time and head out for a spin! And to solve your boredom, please free to head over here and help me sort my brakes and a sticky carb :) Well done again Steve
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This car is going to be gorgeous, really well done!
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Thanks for your quick responses gents, much appreciated along with the kind comments. PaulB, would you then run a few wires from the negative terminal to the bodywork & engine? They would need to be against bare metal of course? I'll need to check the heater blower as it's very weak. I assumed it was just the nature of the car :) Steve