Jaydub
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I'd already got as far as splitting the pump but couldn't work out how the diaphragm was held in - easy when you know how! Thanks a lot. John.
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Hi, Just finished sorting a front plate leak on the other half's 13/60 and noticed that the fuel pump is leaking. Investigation showed that the diaphragm has split (after only forty five years - bloody rubbish). I was going to order a new pump via the interweb but... two questions as Canley Classics aren't open at this time... If anyone has fitted one of Canley's fuel pump overhaul kits... 1 - What do they consist of? 2 - How do you get the pump apart to fit the new diaphragm on the springy bit, do you have to butcher the pivots? Cheers, John. Excuse me if I don't get back on here tonight but the computer is playing silly buggers - have to refresh every page as "website not responding - Windows looking for solution" - glad Heralds are simple.
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John D - that depends on your definition of "up and down", I'd have called that "in and out" movement if the clamp was loose! And how much play do you call movement ? Oh the joys of long distance diagnosis :) It's one of the reasons that, however well meant, you have to add a bit of common sense to any advice given over the internet...
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When you say column... If it's the outer column that is moving , then as above. If the outer column is fixed and the inner is moving then you need new bushes. There are two, they can either be removed or driven further down the column to allow fitting of the new ones. A simple job but you do need to remove the column.
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If you haven't already seen this it's well worth a look to give you an idea of what you are in for... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daVDrGsaDME I'd echo the above re: cleanliness and organisation. Don't underestimate how many containers/how much room/how many rags etc. Triumph engines are about as simple as they get for a "normal" car engine, follow the steps in the manual, keep everything clean, if you get any machining done clean, clean and clean again (use an air line to clear out oilways)! Use plenty of lube when reassembling and check every step of the way that nothing is over tight, clearances are as they should be and that rotating assemblies still rotate after you have torqued them up... don't forget to prime the oil pump. As a newbie I probably wouldn't bother with a micrometer, take all the suspect bits to an engineering shop and get them to measure for you - they will be used to it and can advise if it needs machining or just new bearings or a hone etc. Good luck, engines are lovely things to work with...
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Sorry, meant to get back to you on this - had a look at the weekend and it's far more dismantled than I'd remembered and I found rusty water in the sump! Shame as I'd rebuilt it shortly before laying it up - must have happened during one of our many house moves. Probably only any good now for spares...
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You can use the 2.5 with the GT6 type gearbox but it isn't advisable - been there done that and the extra torque is too much for what is basically a much uprated Herald 'box (there is only so much uprating that you can fit in such a small casing!). Best bet is the TR/saloon 'box - it will go in with very little in the way of modding, mounts, lever, prop' etc. Whereabouts are you as I have a spare 2.5 kicking about (tho' I'd have to check its condition)?
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Depends whether you want it perfect or weatherproof. I repaired my old Vitesse hood several times when it kept getting vandalised. Try your local "Freecycle" to pick up an unwanted tent/gazebo or similar for the window plastic - it'll be free! Use a normal needle and waterproof carpet thread/thick nylon thread to sew the window back in - easier on a hot sunny day or with a fan heater inside the car to soften the materials. Do it with the top closed but not clipped tight. Go over the stitching with clear RTV sealant, just a little on the end of your finger will do - you are sealing the stitches not the window. Wipe clean and it is job done. Take your time and it is an unobtrusive repair... you might not win any concours tho'.
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The current fashion with "euro look" and "retro" stuff is to run wide wheels with the narrowest tyres possible stretched over them. That is probably the look that the poster is after. Much as it is a fashion that I think looks crap that is not why I'd advise against it. Modern wheels have a different rim design to old ones. Most of the wheels used for widening are modern for VW etc. the rim on those is designed to stop the tyre coming off - as stated above there is a risk of the tyre coming off when stretched over an old style rim. If you must go for this style try and find a newer set of rims to start with. TR7 rims can be made to fit and are modern enough that they incorporate the correct type of rim. Anyone competent enough to split and widen can mod the TR7 wheels - I believe the shape of the wheel nuts are different. If you look at the rim with a tyre removed and compare to a modern you will see that there is a sort of double set or shoulder, it is this that stops the tyre moving. There is an argument that you shouldn't even use radials (as opposed to crossplys) on old rims as they do not have the sidewall strength - many folk fit tubes just to be on the safe side, but again there are arguments against fitting tubes to tubelesss tyres. Having said all that, if you go ahead it will probably be horrible to drive... but if it is in the interests of looking cool....
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Ouch! Thanks, I hadn't spotted that one - I'd seen a few LHD pinions at around £25 - 30 and naturally assumed a RHD would be similar or cheaper - oh foolish me... I think I might just put it aside for now as the new one is on its way, will be good for spares as the balljoints etc. are sound or might pick up another really cheap rack and combine the two.
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Of course I'm taking the p*ss - he's said he has drained the watery oil so he's probably already thrown it out.
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I've just ordered a new steering rack for my Hurricane as the one in it had a slightly damaged pinion. the bulk of the rack is okay but I can't track down a RHD pinion. Anyone know where I can get one? If the price is reasonable I'll recon' the rack as a spare. Thanks.
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Pull them both apart and use all the best bits. Put all the other bits back in the casing with the snapped stud, refill with the watery oil and list on eBay...
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Well, you got me thinking as yours appears to be the same as mine. Googling oil cooler sandwich plates (how sad can you get?) it looks like the actual 'stat valve is behind the big hex' nut. The non-thermostatic castings tend to be plain with just the two hose connections. You learn something every day... http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&biw=1584&bih=748&tbm=isch&tbnid=EXCBWlVTUVOVKM:&imgrefurl=http://www.flat4online.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php%3FpName%3Dmocal-hi-flow-oil-cooler-sandwich-plate-with-thermostat-subaru-impreza-my01-my02-my03-my04-my05-sti&docid=oQIzV1I9Aq7DxM&imgurl=http://www.flat4online.co.uk/catalog/images/mocal-hi-flow-sandwich-plate-thermostat-bsp-adaptors-159-p.jpg&w=640&h=480&ei=8Hy7T7SuJ8600QWy19TRBw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=671&vpy=144&dur=13807&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=136&ty=217&sig=107494631454256611958&page=1&tbnh=128&tbnw=161&start=0&ndsp=32&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:0,i:80
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Sorry? Are you referring to the ally casting between the block and the oil filter? That's a sandwich plate that the oil cooler hoses attach to. Can't tell from the pic' if it's direct or temperature controlled tho'. The actual oil cooler looks like a small radiator. Sorry if I've misunderstood. Sorry, re-read you post - see what you are asking now! That looks like the type with a cold temp bypass valve installed that stops you overpressurising the oil cooler rad from start up. Most of the thermostatic ones have a seperate 'stat.