73stagman

Im with Alec I have disnmantled engines from all sorts of cars and never seen wear on a thrust bearing with so little running on a properly assembled engine. I guess that excessive use of the clutch may add to the wear but not cause it. The load is surely off the crank when the clutch pedal is depressed so starting with the clutch depressed would unload the crankshaft to its neutral end float position meaning that although the oil pressure is at its lowest the load is also at its lowest. A point to argue but hardly a cause of what amounts to almost instantaneous catstrophic bearing failure (instantaneous considering that many of these engines will do 3 or 4 times the mileage without significant bearing wear) If you consider what is happening to the conrods and little ends when the crank shaft floats backwards and forwards and this isnt the first time youve seen this wear are the little ends also worn in the rods or are the rods bending! Careful measuring inspection of crank journals, radii, and conrods and gudgeaon pins and althought this sounds like a stupid suggestion, the Stag manual does warn the trained BL mechanics, to ensure the conrods are ALL assembled on the crankshaft the right way round.

I used rustbuster (bought from a seller on on the bay.) 2part paint system brushed on seems to be working ok. I also covered it over with waxoyl underbody goo. I have done 6000 miles mainly on A roads and local country lanes with mud and cow.... since the rebuild. still seems to be keeping the underneath rust free. I do need to go under and clean some of the winter off.....

oh yes... toastie....  :) :)

Me! I've used mine every day since July to go to work! the modern is broken and has been since then! its getting fixed slowly....

Bit behind the times with that post... sorry..(sleep)

If you buy a copper sealing washer it will already be annealed... they are sometimes called "crush washers" Just type copper crush washer into Ebay search. you will have to select the right size.

Sounds like a fault with either the pick up in the dissy or the newtronics unit itself. Basicaly as Iian says its behaving as though the points arent opening or closing. Assuming of course all the ignition wires are in the right place! Try fitting a set of points into the dissy just to get things going..... then once you know the wiring is correct then you can refit the electronic system an dtry it out again. (The Newtronics unit is no longer available so I think you will struggle to get any spares. You can download a wiring diagram off 'tinterweb if you need to)

Newbie to this forum.... Just fixed a wheel vibration on my Stag. I thought the wheel bearing needed nipping up so checked the wheel by giving it the good old wobble from the top of the wheel.. it rattled like it was hardly fixed to the hub. So removed the wheel, tightened up the bearing , the locking nut only moved 90 degrees which took away any signs of bearing wobble. Put it back togetehr and the wheel still rocked like it wasnt fixed to the hub... I discovered the hlding nut on th etop of the strut (inside the wheel arch and behind the spring  :-/ :-/ was half a turn loose. The new struts were installed during my restoration and obviously had settled in to the strut tube. anyway no more wobble and no more front wheel vibration. Now its just the exhaust that makes it shake!!