Nick Jackson (2)

I'm aiming to use this, if I can ever get to the end of the restoration.  

I've finally had the time to fit these Koni's together and it all works per the previous postings.  I've also found my old top spring plates so everything is hunky-dory now.  If the instructions actually had some legible drawings and some words I'm sure I'd have worked it out myself. Thanks to all Nick

Yes, my Koni's are part number 80-1388.   Thanks for the fitting instructions, as there's no way I'd have worked that out from the tiny scraps of paper that pass for instructions.   I agree with JohnD though that it's not a great solution compared to a beefy plate to seat the bottom of the spring against. I'll have a play with them and see how I get on. Thanks Nick

They were bought new from Rimmers quite a few years ago (usual optimism on speed of restoration) and I have everything shown in the Rimmers photo. The largest seats with 3 holes in them are the top spring seats.   I have the 2 medium sized chrome rings but a) don't know exactly where they go and how they fit. Excuse my ignorance but in my defence the instructions are rubbish for a newbie. I can't see how these could act as bottom spring seats though. I also have the 6 chrome items that I assume are used with the rubber bushes.  

I'm fitting my front suspension to the GT6 today and I'm stuck on the fitment of my front shock's (Koni Classics).  The exact items are like these from Rimmers:- http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GSA366KONI The problem is that there's no where for my springs to locate to at the bottom of the shock's.  I have a spare pair of front GAZ shock's and they have a plate welded into them for the bottom of the spring to locate onto.   I've checked the Rimmers website and they definitely say the GSA366KONI items are suitable for the GT6. What am I missing? Thanks Nick

Go on tell us John,  I know you're itching to enlighten the unenlightened  ;D

Go on tell us John,  I know you're itching to enlighten the unenlightened  ;D

It's available second-hand though if you know who to ask  ;)

It's available second-hand though if you know who to ask  ;)

No, the leaves are perfectly flat and there's no evidence of anything that used to sit between the leaves.  Admittedly I've only managed to get the top 3 leaves off set far, but on the other one that hasn't been taken apart yet the recesses/buttons are clearly visible. Aside from buttons/recesses the two springs are identical in size, curvature and fixings.

Well Nick Jones, Mark Bland and I inspected two supposedly original GT6 rotoflex rear springs tonight and one had the buttons and the other nothing at all between the leaves.  

Does the rotoflex rear spring have these buttons?   I only say that as I'm in the process of dismantling mine and there's no evidence of recesses and buttons after removing the top three leaf springs.

The Dutch Spitfire Club sell teflon ones.  See this thread:- Sorry , link no longer available

So going back to the original thread, I'm thinking now I'll refurbish the original Rotoflex spring (assuming I can get the thing apart).   Apart from new spring eye bushes and graphite grease, is there anything I can do to improve this spring? Nick

Thanks guys for the comments above.  A few responses:- Shock's/dampers: As I've already got various new ones the only way I'll buy new AVO's is by selling all 8 I have already.   Not so likely in the current economic climate as buyers seem thin on the ground.  Although they're not adjustable on the car I think I'll go with my new Koni's front and rear for now. Front springs: Again I've already 2 sets, so it looks like I'll start with the 450lb ones. Possibly a bit hard though. Brakes discs/pads: Good idea on the Mintex 1144's. As for disc's, apart from bog standard solid discs I have, I acquired some EBC Turbogroove discs with blind drilled grooves & dimples.  Probably not what I would have chosen but they came as a job lot of kit and are new, so will fit these for now. Anti-roll Bar: Hadn't thought of this and only have a standard ARB.  I'll see about an uprated one though. [b]Canley Aluminium Parts[b/]: I was originally planning some of these items but I don't have that sort of money for now.  I suppose these can be fitted later fairly easy if need be. Alloy wheels: Definitely on the list once I get to the end of the project.  I'm using the old steels to trundle the chassis around for now.  What about wheel size itself?  Any suggestions? Diff/Rear Spring Space: I'm undecided on this. 1/2 to 3/4" seems to be usual but I've seen talk about having to use drop links with these.  I think this refers to the Vertical Links but could someone explain the issue and what is needed.   At the moment the 'default' option is to use a 1/2" spacer I suppose.  I think I can get away with this without needing longer studs.   Rear Spring: I assume my spring is standard and I wasn't planning on changing it.  My only concern is that it would be a real pain to change later once the car is on the road? Poly Bushes: I've already started fitting Red Polybush bushes from a Canley kit.  Blue might have been a softer ride perhaps but I had to hop one way or the other.  I used Superflex on the 2.5PI and they're fine but I went for Canley's Polybush as they sold a complete kit. They look a quality bush with metal inserts so I'll hopefully they'll be okay. It looks like I need to fit and play for a while but I don't want to spend a lot buying alternative kit so soon after finishing a major body off restoration.   Nick

Having nearly finished painting of various items I'm fast approaching the point where I need to fit the suspension parts to my chassis. (Actually the diff and steering rack are already fitted).  Therefore, I wonder if I could get some thoughts from you all about designing the suspension with a view to getting the correct ride quality for my purposes and ride height for getting the right look.   I have some choice (see below) and may need to buy more kit to suit my purpose though. A quick recap on what I have:- It's a Mk2 rotoflex with a 2.5 'MG' prefix engine and J-type overdrive.  It's intended purpose is basically what I'd call 'fast road' use and road trips.  I'm looking for good handling while pressing on and throwing the car into hairpins, but not going all out for top speed or racing. Assume standard spec except:- CV driveshafts, solid steering rack mounts, Poly bush kit from Canley. Rear shocks will be mounted onto chassis rather than the rear wheel arch I have a choice of new shocks - Koni's front and rear, Gaz front, Spax rears I have a choice of front springs - existing standard ones or new 440lb ones    Handling requirements come first of course but, by preference, I like a slightly lowered look and a flat profile when looking from the side.  I'm just not a fan of cars that sit either up at the front or back and I like the meaner/sportier look of lowered cars.  I'm also no fan of rear wheels that seem to tuck under the car (positive camber?).  Weirdly I don't mind them sitting the other way around (negative camber?), where the bottom of the wheel sits further outwards from the car.   I'm wondering about fitting a space block between  the diff and rear spring but is this necessary and how would I balance this at the front to get the level/lowered ride height I'm after?    What else should I be thinking about? Any comments and advice would be gratfefully received. Nick

Don't worry I'll find a way of getting everything done over time.   I've no particular deadline so I'll just potter on doing whatever I can.

Thanks Richard.  Good diagrams but something else to pay for!

Thanks Harveymoon.   I don't know how I manage to miss the relevant pages on the Canley website, especially as I've bought loads of kit from them in the past.  I suppose it's a case of looking everywhere else but the obvious place  :(

Having now painted my chassis, I'm looking to fit brake and fuel lines.  What is the best source of reference to see where the lines run and how the various joints work?   I have various manuals/books but none are particularly detailed. For the fuel line I'll add a couple of filters between the tank/pump and pump/carb's just in case, but I'm not planning any other mod's from standard. Thanks Nick

Honda Civic and Mk2 Golf are used by some.

Your first time I assume from your profile, so did it meet all of your expectations?

That's a great story Anne, especially the but about purring not snoring.  I'll tell my wife that one!   I was marshalling at Sixpenny Handley and was really looking forward to seeing the car and saying hello.  Thanks to you and Mike for risking such a treasured car on the RBRR. Nick

The cakes were amazing in previous years so you'll have many appreciative crews if they're on the agenda again for 2014.

Tim, as Pimperne is 5 minutes from my home I'll do some research about the Cricket Club there.  They have they're own hall for refreshments, plenty of land and it's nearer to the main road.  I just need to check how much formal parking space they can provide by the hall.   I'll follow up other options as well. Nick