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Nick Jackson (2)

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Everything posted by Nick Jackson (2)

  1. Nick Jackson (2)
    I can't believe I'm 8 years in and still only just painting the exterior of the GT6!   While rubbing down a panel the other day I was thinking ahead and wondering about what my options are for an exhaust manifold and exhaust system.  It's a 2,498cc engine btw, not the standard 1,998cc, and will be running with a couple of HS6 carb's rebuilt by Andrew Turner.    The previous manifold was a 6-2-1 and it was matched to a Bells exhaust with rather large twin tail-pipes.  I like twin tail-pipes to be honest but prefer them to be much further apart.   Does anyone have any suggestions for a replacement system that allows good breathing with a decent roarty sound?   Thanks Nick
  2. Nick Jackson (2)
    Tim,  PM sent re; marshalling.
  3. Nick Jackson (2)
    I'm down in North Dorset.   I think I'll ask around this weekend and see if someone can braze it, but I'm interested in a used replacement if one exists. Nick
  4. Nick Jackson (2)
    Does anyone have a spare one of these 'swan neck' fuel pipes?  It sits between the fuel filler and the tank.  While trying to replace a hose I managed to break off the small pipe that accepts the fuel return line.   CW doesn't have them and so far no luck with used sources either.
  5. Nick Jackson (2)
    Many thanks for the comments.   Firstly, I went out to the car and assessed the chubbinmess of my wires into the relays (see photo). Certainly the brown ones look decidedly stout but the white wires coming off the smaller black box are not quite as thick.  This weekend I'll have to trace some wires back to see which wires are which, to properly assess whether everything is how it should be. I also checked the headlights themselves and was amazed to find the outers are Cibie's and the inners Lucas.    The inners are the main beam lights (yes?) but they're really effective on my usual country roads!    Assuming the outers are the dipped headlights ( the car's laid up at the moment with no battery so I can't check), then I'm wondering why the Cibie's aren't giving me enough light. I'll have to check the bulbs that are fitted but, failing that, it could well be the wiring.    Any other reasons for poor light from apparently good Cibie headlights? Nick
  6. Nick Jackson (2)
    Would some kind soul please advise me what options I have to provide better illumination from my Mk2 saloon dipped-headlights.  I think I'm using standard (5 3/4"?) halogens or sealed beams and really want to just change the bulbs to a modern bulb. Perhaps the Osram Nightbreakers I've seen advertised?    I do have a bank of relays though for all headlights, so no worries there. Worst case, I might have to invest in some whole new headlights but I'm trying to avoid that, Thanks Nick
  7. Nick Jackson (2)
    Too late!   While keying I went through in a number of places such as the edges. swage lines.  Problem being I had some over spray in some places that was tricky to get off and various splodges, drips of unknown things that the car collected in the garage.   I suppose I've now got to get some etch primer on those spots without building up the paint thickness in adjoining areas  :-/ A bit of a learning curve to climb here  ;)
  8. Nick Jackson (2)
    Well cellulose thinners or a coin didn't touch the black primer, so I'll be sanding a sample panel initially.  
  9. Nick Jackson (2)
    Thanks guys.  I haven't had the chance to get in the garage since because the arrival of our first grandchild has taken precedence!   I'll do some testing and see what happens.
  10. Nick Jackson (2)
    I'm wondering what to do by way of painting preparation with the black paint that comes on new panels.   I thought the black stuff was cheap primer to be rubbed off, but mine is obviously quite a hard surface. Should I rub off to bare metal? Should I key with 400 grit or similar and apply primer on top? Polite suggestions welcome.  Thanks.
  11. Nick Jackson (2)
    It was owned by Robert Picton, his brother.  They swapped the old 2000 unit for a PI 2500 engine.   I e-mailed Dave Picton quite recently again but he hasn't replied as yet.  If anyone has his ear perhaps they could offer him a gentle nudge by way of a reminder to reply? Thanks.
  12. Nick Jackson (2)
    The Chris Witor info looks to be the same as the T2000 club info, which might be because CW is the common link?
  13. Nick Jackson (2)
    My GT6 has an MG serialled 2498cc engine and I'm trying to find out some more about it.  So far I've found out the head is stamped 218225 and the casting number is 312388.   According to the Triumph 2000 Register book there should also be a part number starting with a 5 somewhere but I can't find it. Does anyone know where to find the part number? If the engine numbers are broadly in line with the commission numbers my engine dates from late 1971. Any insight into the basic configuration or spec of this engine would be gratefully received. Being a former Picton car, the engine might have had a tweak or two, but I'll only know that if I take it apart. A bit drastic at this stage! Thanks Nick
  14. Nick Jackson (2)
    My GT6 Mk2 restoration is once again progressing.  It's now had it's inside painted, so it's essentially now exterior painting, interior fit-out + whatever engine work might be needed.  There's also exhaust, wheels and some ancilliary mechanical bits to choose and fit.  It's starting to look like a realistic possibility for 2014 now!     Here's a photo from today.
  15. Nick Jackson (2)
    Okay, I'm getting a bit confused now. Is this coming from the new Triumph 2000 Spares Group?  
  16. Nick Jackson (2)
    Okay will try and find some different spec materials.  As for running it inside, as I'd know there was a leak!!
  17. Nick Jackson (2)
    Couldn't fit the 3rd photo on the last post!
  18. Nick Jackson (2)
    Here's some more photos:- 1) Body now refitted after the chassis rebuild 2) Diff studs have plenty of clearance 3) A top-down view of that suspect rear flexible brake hose.  I think I'm okay with this at it is. As for the fuel line, yes there's a gap between the outrigger and the body.  I've the possibly fool-hardy decision to fit the fuel pipe after fitting the body. The advantage being I can see the clearances front and back better with the body on.   I'm wondering about fogetting the copper fuel pipe althogether and use a single length of R9/R10 (ethanol friendly) hose, which would be more flexible. If I run this outside I wonder if I'd need proctective braid or conduit of some sort. The option being to run it inside the body from pump to tank, where it will be much better protected from damage.
  19. Nick Jackson (2)
    Thanks for the responses.   JensH - so your're taking the fuel pipe between the outrigger and the body?  I'm surprised there's enough space but I can't see that until the body is on.  Grommets on the outrigger would be good. TimW - I think going around the outside and under the outrigger at the back makes sense, but would the copper pipe need anything on it for damage protection?     Studs: yes they're quite long, so I might have to trim them with the angle grinder when the body goes on and I can check the clearance.  Flexible rear hose: Yes I see what you mean.  I'll have another look at that.
  20. Nick Jackson (2)
    Fitting the fuel line is the last job prior to refitting the body, so I'm determined to finish the job this weekend. Problem 1 I've fed the continuous length of copper pipe from the back through the front outrigger but need to make a 90% bend to route the pipe upwards to meet the fuel pump. The problem being the lower wishbone is in the way and I can't feed enough pipe through before bending the pipe to the right length.  Even if the wishbone wasn't there I still think the suspension would be in the way.   I could cut the pipe and use some sort of union to introduce the required bend but I was trying to avoid cutting/joining wherever possible.  What have others done? Problem 2 As noted above, I've temporarily fed the fuel pipe from the back through the rear suspension frame.  I'm still trying to decide the best route from the chassis rail in/around the rear chassis structure to the tank.  Some say the fuel pipe should cross inwards over the chassis rail, then under the driveshaft.  However, the clearance on my driveshafts/chassis looks decidely tight to do that.  I'm wondering about taking it over the driveshaft but under the rear spring.  Alternatively, could it pass around the outside of the chassis, passing between the driveshaft and lower wishbone? I've posted some pic's below. Thanks Nick
  21. Nick Jackson (2)
    Thanks for the input Colin.  I'd better start getting some updated quotes after Xmas as I can't afford to lose it all.
  22. Nick Jackson (2)
    How are others deciding how to value their restoration project as it progresses?    I'm now at the point where I have a fully rebuilt shell, which is partly painted, and a painted chassis that looks more like a car each week.   Value - no idea!   I have it on a DFT (damage, fire, theft) policy at the moment but need to increase the value insured again. It's a GT6 Mk2 so I'm thinking about £3,000, although it's cost me a lot more than that of course.
  23. Nick Jackson (2)
    Those 3/16" and 5/16" combined clips look the part but like JenH I don't want to drill more holes than I need to.     Canley's do a double metal clip part number 59191 but unfortunately there's no picture to see what they're like and how they fix to the chassis.   Thanks for the replies. Nick
  24. Nick Jackson (2)
    Looked at that but the nearest seems to be this:- http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=2&pgCode=065&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Brakes+%26+Suspension&agCode=1406&agName=Brake+Pipe+%26+Fittings&pCode=065.675 The problem being I want a clip to hold a 3/16" brake pipe and a 5/16" fuel pipe in the same way as the product above.  There's only one set of holes in the chassis for the clip fixings and I'm reluctant to drill a second set of holes for a dual set of clips.  I'm not even sure such a clip that retains two pipes of different diameters exists though.
  25. Nick Jackson (2)
    I received my brake & fuel pipe kits for my GT6 from Canley's yesterday but these kits don't come with fixing clips.  What is best practice in terms of clips - nylon or metal?    Could someone recommend a product / supplier? Thanks Nick
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