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frenchiemk2

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Everything posted by frenchiemk2

  1. Last news I installed the electric fan ➕ direct switch, cleaned all the cooling system and replaced the fluid. Very rusty water (from the decades the engine was openend?). I fitted again at least 4 fuel hoses to the injectors feeds with my tool Put the plenum in place (didn't notice that the inlets are cones velocity stacks sorts). And painted the air filter box (it would be better in black) I checked the valves gaps and had to adjust again at 0.25. There was too much clearance for some. This action paid much because i have now no ticking anymore. I set the ignition again at 8BTDC and tested at about 10/11 which i chose according to the AFR reading at 2500 2700 RPM (static). I still have to bleed the brakes before test road (but anxious as the car has no MOT yet) I wish soon
  2. Bosch don't need 106 Psi at the distribution unit and fuel cone spray is around 30° (i don't know about Lucas ones). I'm thinking about ideal placement for nozzle inside the the throttle. Some say 1 to 2 inches from the flange but i must test a second position to see if better with a little spacer.after the seal bung to get a better squirt cone
  3. What i think could be correct is to adjust my Bosch to the length after the bung. I read the measurment is 15/32? (on my car there were 3 screw models and 3 push in models , don't ask me why)... What i understand from you is that i could also measure inside the throttle body where i want my end injectors to be positionned?
  4. Interesting question Not sure as i never saw any Lucas injector If i can find a measure then can compare the 2 types and fit the same gap as the Lucas.
  5. They are Bosch. They were in the car when i bought it (all explained in the complete thread)
  6. News from today. Monday, i installed new linkage rods + bushes from Fred Millturn Parts (Martin, thank you very much) I also cleaned degreased the main linkage before repositioning Yesterday, I installed an AFR set (AEM) I also got rid of a leak at injector Nb 2. I used the hack that John Bell1 gave me and it works easy with a dudgeon thing; no rotation, no leak. Now I have to work on adjusting the settings (seems to much Rev at warm idle) and blead the brakes!
  7. Well i put all together to check if any leak after cleaning. Note the DIY add inside the reservoir : 2 small magnets to catch rust particles.
  8. thanks. I was confused because the ref was different but it seems it changed... OE Lockheed - GMC218 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-518703
  9. "everyday, everyday, evreyday i write the booook..." 🎶 Today I dismanteled the brakes fluid reservoir from the master cylinder because i wanted to clean it from dirt and rust particles. Well now it's cleaned but the 2 O ring seals have to be replaced (slight cracks on both) and of course i haven't got the faintest idea wher to get new ones. I emailed C.Witor... If you have any idea? Ref is for Lockheed 3212-815c 13"
  10. I bled twice the brakes system without any gain... well only balanced brakes the 25% I had on the rear right to the front right... when my son could help + traces of light bubbles (water?) and dust/rust particles remixing in the master cylinder reservoir. So today i replaced all the flexible hoses for brand new Witor's inox set. Rear cylinders are nice so I let them in place (like all breakes system had been replaced before the car was stored). I will only replace when i bleed if any doubt). Front left caliper seem a little oiled, i don't know now if the piston seal is damaged or what. I'll check that too when i will be able to bleed. i pushed all the old brake fluid with pressure from the reservoir, to drain all contaminated old fluid (500ml). What i noticed is that the fluid couldn't bleed through old hoses, even with pressure.
  11. The car has no C.T (french MOT) and still something to solve about brakes. Bleeding to be done again since 3 wheels don't brake. Also waiting for renewal parts for the torn linkage. Today i found sucking at the 1st cylinder 1st throttle and a little bit at the 2nd when reving... Maybe in progress... Also solved the mystery of vanishing gas... Look what was leaking under the car... Isn't that ironic...
  12. The news. Sounds better but not set. I set timing at 11° (25D Lucas vacuum unit at mid marks) but it looks like the engine wants more advance... so i dosed between 25D/air screw and seems almost good. Cold start is good, warm engine too. Revs fine, only a little rattle at very early engaging pedal on acceleration. But still impossible to balance all 3 throttles because no depression at the 1st body! (2 and 3 are well balanced ; it's an early model with only 1 air feed/balance system) Checks and process : - done : new rubbers to mastervac and metal air tank, air valve the right way and seems functional - done : 2 new rubbers linkage between throttles - checked : air leaks at metering unit, 25D capsule hold depression - ordered : new rods, swivels and springs (missed 1 at cold start that i did myself but let's do it right) at Fred Millturn (thank you Martin) What else should I check?
  13. still no depression on throttle 1-2 still hard to rev still bangs on throttles 5-6 and 3-4 Advance set is 8 BTDC (french onboard document) should i check again the valve clearance?
  14. Trying to understand what why... cyl6 and 5 bang + impossible to adjust depression on 1-2 throttle unit (whereas possible on 3-4 and 5-6) and still impossible reving. What i diagnose is the former mechanic did shit : SEE PICT So I start from what i think is correct : - use nearly full length of threaded shafts so that i can adjust gaps (acceleration pedal + cold start thing) and so that the throttles can open wide without hitting the header (threaded shaft throttle 1-2) - manage tensions and springs (not efficient) - try to find depression on 1-2 unit I'll let you know if some better...
  15. The news I just started the car after putting fuel in the tank (evaporated i believe) that was the issue last time. The fuel gauge isn't helping and always that red warning lamp even with 10 liters. I just set the advance and believe it's correct The twin choke cable redone DIY Same issues maybe that are my limits : _ starts fine when cold - when hot tends to shut itself _ revs not easily and bangs sometimes _ smells bad combustion Maybe i have to focus on adjusting the throttles? Forgive my bad english on vid...
  16. Yes that's what i thought according to chriswitor pics
  17. Hi Found this header for sale in France. Seller does not know which car it's from. Maybe Triumph but what car exactly? Says made of steel. Thanks for your help.
  18. Maybe not enough fuel in the tank. But i put 15l the other time and the engine ran for max an hour. Evaporated maybe cause there's bo leak and no smell or someone stealing ⛽? Have to check when i come back. How should the gas cap look like? For comparison.
  19. OMG; no way, i have to check one thing...
  20. Here's what i have when 1st cyl at TDC (no firing) So... I'll take the gasket off to make sure what it figures when 6th is at real TDC.
  21. For setting the metering unit, the manuels refer to the 6th cylinder at TDC (what the h?) Is it correct that when you are at TDC for 1st cylinder, the 6th cylinder is at top position too? (by checking to the marks on the wheel balancer)? Is there a trick knowing the 6th cylinder at TDC with the valve cover on place or must take it off?
  22. I had a great impression about the Mintex 1144 (Scirocco GT 79). Had to warm a little but then, very much grip and enduring (when you know VW brakes from that times... great deal ! ). On the other hand, pads vanishing relatively fast (compared to genuine).
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