markcro
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Everything posted by markcro
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I cable tied mine on yesterday for a test run and the car ran great! I am going to mount it in place of the old pump on the engine block as my car has a brake servo so there is really very little space on the bulk head to fit it...
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I'm in the process of doing this myself due to vapour lock in hot weather. I've made a blanking plate from a sheet of stainless steel that I found in work. On the point of new mechanical pumps, I bought one from x and it was complete and utter rubbish! Badly cast causing it to leak everywhere. A total POS! I returned it and then bought one from RB and it was a totally different beast. Well made and no leaks. But this summer I was having serious issues with vapour lock so will try an electronic one. I bought one of the pumps in the above link. It says that you don't need a regulator? (I haven't fitted it yet so can't report how it runs...)
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Cheers. I'll order another kit and replace it. At least this time it will come apart without issue! Where is the best place to source replacement kits? (Late MK.3 GT6 non-roto flex)
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Finally after 5 months I got to drive my GT6 yesterday! 😎 I ended up taking the half axle and hub off in one complete unit and angle grinding a bit of the bolt, rotate the bolt and angle grind more unit it was through. Sliced the bolt into 3 pieces and then the bracket came off the hub! Happy Days! At last!! Two things about the replacement trunnion kit though..... the original nylon inserts that I removed went through the whole hub. Where as the new ones were way shorter. Each one probably only went in 1/4 length of the hub. Also the metal sleeve was shorter. Was I given the right trunnion kit? At this point I didn't care and assembled it all together just to have her driving again! Also, the kit included the metal sleeves, 2x nylon inserts, rubber sealing ring, metal dust cover and then a metal outter cover. There was no way in hell in using both the metal dust cover and outter cover. It just wouldn't fit, and if you managed to force it then it would be jammed tight, so no better than the seized one that it was replacing! As a side thought, why are the trunnions there at all? It makes sense that they allow the wheel to pivot on the trunnion and the spring eye bolt to keep the wheel vertical. But then when you add the tie rod into the equation that stops the trunnion from pivoting, so what's the point? Or am I missing the point?
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You can easily bleed it from the engine bay but unfortunately I want to replace it with a new one...
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Perfect! You're a gent Baz! Thanks.
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I need to get access to the slave clutch cylinder on my GT6 and from previous advise I have been told that I need to remove the gearbox tunnel. Does this mean that I need to remove the centre console first? What about the dash? Thanks!
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Cheers guys. Did you cut through the bolt in situ or did you remove the hub? I had a go of angle grinding it but the disk was not long enough to get through and was very little access. So now I am afraid to look at what I was cutting......
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Okay thanks guys..... it's never easy!
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I have a seize rear trunnion on my GT6 and I cannot remove the bolt. I have heated it and bashed it and there is not even 1mm of movement in the bolt. I ideally don't want to remove the hub as I don't think the brake pipe unions will come undone without alot of mess and new brake lines. So my options are to slice through the bolt in two places in situ. What are the risks? Cutting through or grinding the trunnion housing short? Or remove the whole lot and cut through it in a vice.... In order to do this do I undo the brake union (if possible) and then just unbolt the drive shaft universal joint, spring bolt and tie bar, and then it comes out? Also the hand brake cable.... Do I need a hub puller is basically what I'm wondering? All advise welcome! 🙂
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A simple way is to look at the teeth on the wheel. The arm acts as a racket. So when it acts on the wheel it should grip the flat side of the teeth to adjust the adjustor outwards (push the shoes against the drum). And then when you release the handbrake the arm should slide back over the sloped side of the teeth. It acts like a racket- it only adjusts the shoes in one direction. i.e. to tighten them.
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Thanks guys. Another delay in getting back on the road. And more hacksawing and blisters so.....
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Is there a knack to removing the rear trunnion bolt? It turns but I've been hammering it all morning and it hasn't moved even a mm
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I picked up a bottle of STP gearbox oil additive as my gearbox (GT6 Mk.3) could do with all the help that it can get. 😉 Anyway I've just read the details and it says not to use in automatics or limited slip diffs- all fair enough. But also not in overdrives... Bugger! I can understand the autos and LSDs but why not overdrive boxes?
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Cheers!
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For a long time I felt the rear of my GT6 was floaty.So 2 months ago I order new shocks which led on to me ordering polybushes all around.....but as I started the work I found that the rear shocks were actually fine and the original bushes was pretty much okay as well. But I replaced them anyway.....which lead me to find that rear left trunnion is totally ceased! That must be the cause of the loose rear end! 😀 Anyway no harm to have all the other bits changed. Any ideas where is the best place to buy a new bolt and metal/ nylon bushes for the trunnion? I've been browsing rimmers and can't find them??
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I got the other side done this morning and it all bolted back up! It was like slowly breaking out of prison- slowly cutting with a bare hacksaw blade and cursing alot! A few blisters on my thumb and a slightly bent screwdriver and we were done!
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Between madness at work, a baby and a dog, I've been grabbing an hour here and there to work on it. So it's painfully slow going! 😲 But yeah, it was near welded in there! I tried pushing out with the threaded bar method and ended up just stripping the threads off the bar. Bent a screw driver. Heated the eye up with a blow torch. Still no good. So ended up slowly cutting it out by hand.
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Where is the filter? Does this need to be cleaned? (Late Mk. 3 GT6)
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Last night, just before 1am, I got the bast'id out! Patience, junior hacksaw blade, two screw drivers and a small pry bar and sore hands eventually got it out! Now just for the other side! 😎
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Yep tried one side tonight and it is stuck fast! So will try giving your method a go. Cheers!
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Thanks M, That would expalin why the poly bush distorts so much! Thanks, you have relieved some of my frustration!
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This morning I pushed out the original leaf spring eye bushes- what came out was the rubber bush with the metal insert. My question is: there is a metal sleeve in the spring eye- is this part of the bush and should be also removed? Or is it part of the spring and is meant to stay? I left it in place and pushed in my new poly bushes. The poly bush extends out about 2cm past the eye now...... I so pissed off with bloody bushes now that I am temped to cut it off with a sharp blade! At this rate the car won't be back on the road until next summer!! 😆
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I was actually going to use that skin coloured bandage and soak it in oil/ grease if I did it. It may be a bugger to do though as there is very little room to get your hand in.
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At the moment I am polybushing the rear end of my GT6. And while my head was up under the old girls shirt I have smothered the leaf spring with grease and worked it in as best as I could. (It was bone dry and coated in surface rust.) I see some vintage cars have their leaf springs greased and then wrapped in material. I presume to keep the grease in place/ keep it clean. What is recommended with the GT6? Or does it make a difference at all? To wrap, or not to wrap is the question..........