markcro
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Everything posted by markcro
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Let us know how you get on. I feel you pain! I chased my tail for about 2 months with mine. Grrr!!
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My MBC was 100% as well until it failed as well. I reckon that when I bled the system the cylinder bore was full of crap from over the years and the seal failed when I pumped the pedal the full sweep as it went over all the crap. But was was weirder was that the brand new one was faulty as well! I ended up rebuilding the original one and using that again.
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I have been running through this exact same question in my head over the last few days! :) I am going to replace all of the copper fuel lines with modern rubber ones that won't absorb the heat. But then I was thinking does having the fuel line in front or behind the head actually make any difference at all? The only reason to not have it at the front that I can think of it to get the fuel line away from the hot radiator. But then having it at the back, that is where all the hot air will end up as it flows through the engine bay anyway..... so does it actually make a difference??
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Yep, sounds like the MBC to me. I had a similar fail symptoms 2 years ago after I rebuilt my brake calipers. I bought a new MBC but the issue was no different so I ended up pull apart the calipers again, bleeding and bleeding…………..a month later and a lot of cursing I eventually realised that the new MBC was faulty from the box! So it gave the same symptoms. Grrr!!!
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Actually he just replied and he doesn't make them for the GT6. :-(
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Cheers Baz, I just dropped him an e-mail. That one looks good!
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I was thinking about which is the best way to route the fuel line…..and does it really make that much difference? The only reason that I can think of to re-route it behind the engine is to get it away from the hot radiator. But then with the fans etc. all the hot air is moving towares the rear of the engine bay anyway, so does it make any difference at all? I have found SS heat shields on eBay for Strombergs for the GT6. They are a pair of heat shields that sit under the carbs- see the pic. 36 Sterling plus P&P they seem pricey for a small piece of metal. Do you think that these would work or are just for show? The photos above of shields seem to actually shield a lot more than just a little piece underneath the carbs….
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Ladies, ladies! No hand bags at dawn please! ;-) I really like that aluminium cowl on the rad! :-)
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Cheers Baz, unfortunately my car runs Stromberg CD150s. But I will search eBay, good idea. Cheers.
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Cheers guys. I was thinking of replacing as much of the copper line with modern rubber fuel line as it will act in itself as an insulator and wont hold the heat. Did you make or buy the heat shield? And where did you put the insulation? Stuck it to the heat shield? I take it that you didn't wrap the carbs?! ;-) I was thinking maybe to wrap the exhaust manifold even though it is the standard cast iron jobbie, but it may help to keep the heat out of the engine bay?
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A total bugger as you end up fluting around for ages. But it is all just down to knack and cursing alot! :P
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I had my Mk.3 GT6 out yesterday for the first time this year. And she is suffering horribly from hot-start issues. Any time that I stopped I had to sit with the bonnet up for about 10 mins before she would fire back up again. And even then she would run like crap for 30mins or more. So I am thinking to do away with the mechanical fuel pump and hopefully solve this problem. So does any one have any advice? Are there any kits available? Which are the best/ where to buy them? Thanks!
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9716 wrote:Most of the previous replies are true and helpful, but there's one thing to add. Idle speed. If your car idles too fast it will be massively more prone to running on. Make sure the tickover is just comfortable and not fast. Neither my M3 GT6 nor my Mk1 Vitesse suffer from run-on when the idle is right, even on 95ULG. Good point. She idles fast at 1000rpm at the moment. I'll knock it back to 800rpm
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I currently use a combined lead and octane booster bottle of snake oil. :-)
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Thanks guys as always! :-) Unfortunately in Ireland we only get watery 95 Octane petrol. Stations stopped importing 98 a good few years ago as it was taxed too highly. :'
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After a run my GT6 Mk. 3 engine will run on for up to 5 seconds after I switch the ignition off. This is bad as it is very rough and it knocking. I have started to dump the clutch in gear to stop it. What is the cause of this? Or more importantly, what is the cure? Thanks for any advice.
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Last night I lost all power to the temp and petrol gauges, indicators, etc. Everything on that part of the loom. I presumed a fuse. But checking it now and the fuse is fine and there is no power reaching the fuse at all. I ran a wire directly from the battery to the fuse and power is restored. Anyway, looking at the wiring diagram, the only two common things are the fuse and the ignition switch itself. So it points to the ignition switch. Can this be stripped and rebuilt or are they a replacement job? Is the lock barrel and the switch the one item? i.e. do I keep my current ignition key? Thanks!
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rotoflex wrote:Hi Wimpy: Keeping nice paint underneath the master cylinders will be something that you'll be trying to do as long as you own the car. The worn hole in the clutch pedal is also typical, but only needs to be done every 15 years or so. It can be welded up, then drilled out again. I learnt this last year. :-( I cleaned all the rust off, and spent 2 weeks spraying and clear coating teh bulk head. Looked lovely and matched the body colour. A few weeks later the brake master cycling seal went.....and so did my lovely paint job! :-( I am thinking of just paint it with black underseal and be done with it! :X
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Thanks for the information. Looking at rebuild kits online and there seems to be different options: CD150, CD150SEV, CD150SE, etc. Does anyone know which version of CD150 the MK.3 GT6 had? (Late 1973). (Hopefully not a mixture of the above! ;-) )
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Hi All, My 1973 GT6 Mk.3 has been sitting idle for the last 9 months after running faultlessly on a 1000km run. Things and life meant that she stayed sleeping in her garage until today..........or at least I tried to wake her and she wee'd the bed! She was turning over and over and then I noticed that both carbs (Stromberg CD150) had a stream of petrol flowing out the bottom of them. I didn't have time to have a proper look, but it appears that each carbs has a roundy thing underneath that can rotate and feels loose to the touch. From just my fingers this would appear where the fuel is coming from. Unusual that both carbs started doing this at the same time?!?! What is this thing? Any ideas why this happened? Any advice is welcome. Cheers
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Cheers guys. Maybe I'll stick with the 155s for the moment. Where did you buy the 5.5j wheels?
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I have standard wheels and suspension, etc. so I am currently running on the standard 155 width tyres. Apart from them being 9 years old and having the grip of hard plastic I think that they need to be a fit fatter to stop the front brakes locking up so easily. So what is the max size you can fit on standard steel rims? 175? How does this effect the handling/ slow speed steering weight etc.? Someday I will buy the wider steel rims but at the moment I don't want to fork out that money just yet.
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Thanks. Perfect explanation!
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GT6 Mk.3 Rotoflex or non-Rotoflex? Which is the prefered model? And why did they drop the Rotoflex setup? Is the non-Rotoflex rear set up on the last of the Mk.3s as good as the Rotoflex setup, or is this just cheaping out and going back to the issues of the Mk.1?
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The problem with my rear panels is that they don’t have those clips. They were fixed on by the last person with panhead screws which I am finding impossible to line the holes back up to fit them again. My door cards do have those clips but one or two are missing meaning that the cards hang out in places. Do those clips have to be fixed to the cards before they are covered in the vinyl? i.e. can I fit them now from behind or do I need to remove the vinyl from the panels? Cheers