markcro
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Everything posted by markcro
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I have both the front and rear strips sitting in a box for the last 6 years! I never got around to or knew how to fit them! So interested in this too!
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Ah I like that! You mounted it on the block where the original pump was? To start with I won't have a safety switch, I'll just have it wired to the ignition. In the case of a smack I'll turn off the ignition. Nice job on the fuse box as well.
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That is an interesting idea with the oil pressure switch. Where would be the best place to pick up a t-piece so to keep the oil pressure sender in place also? (sorry for being lazy!)
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Good tip on the white coil wire Don - cheers! Why don't some people mount on rubber?
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The pump that I bought is the suction type so has to be fitted in the engine bay. When fitting to the bulk head, how did you do it? Just used self-tapping screws? I’ll have to buy an inline fuse so. Any idea of the rating? On a separate note, what do you use when you need to connect additional wires to the battery terminals? Are there large spade connectors or what is the norm? At the moment I have wire clamped in under the terminal for the electric fan etc. and it looks awful.
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I received a Huco electric pump for my GT6 yesterday and was wondering where is the best place to fit it? Also do people just wire it directly to the ignition switch or do they fit a relay? Also do they fit a safety switch? (I know that this last one is recommended but do many do it?) Thanks.
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9077 wrote:The bushes they're talking about are the ones at either end of each shocker. The one on that middle shocker doesn't look too good, from the photo. I took my old Spax off to replace the bushes as they were cracked like yours. Unfortunately, having wreaked the old ones getting them out, I couldn't find a replacement to fit. It appears my Spax need an odd size bush no longer available. Well, I couldn't find a set anyway. So I wound up with new shockers. Thanks. Yeah that bush is definitely cracked so needed replacing anyway. This morning I have a good play with the old shocks that came off. As far as I can tell they work perfectly... bugger! So there was no need to take them off or buy replacements ones. I was playing with the adjusting screw on one and it works perfectly. You can adjust it so that it is nearly impossible to push the shock in. So then I tried the other and as mentioned above, the adjusting screw snapped off.. ??) Anyway that made my decision for me. This old but still working Spax shocks are going into the bin and I will fit the new cheapo shocks. Some day in the future I will buy new uprated ones like the Spax ones.
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Thanks. Yeah that bush is definitely cracked so needed replacing anyway. This morning I have a good play with the old shocks that came off. As far as I can tell they work perfectly... bugger! So there was no need to take them off or buy replacements ones. I was playing with the adjusting screw on one and it works perfectly. You can adjust it so that it is nearly impossible to push the shock in. So then I tried the other and as mentioned above, the adjusting screw snapped off.. Anyway that made my decision for me. This old but still working Spax shocks are going into the bin and I will fit the new cheapo shocks. Some day in the future I will buy new uprated ones like the Spax ones.
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4526 wrote: I've replaced everything :P Ha ha ha! Thanks! 8)
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4526 wrote:The moving around at the back can also be the bushes. Mine is pretty tight at the back with new rubber bushes. My friend drove mine once and was pretty amazed, then he let me drive his Spitfire .. The back end suspension was moving a lot in a corner :-/ I haven't looked at the bushes. Which bushes did you replace?
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They are off the car now so will fit the new cheapo ones anyway to see if there is a difference. I have felt that the rear end is very wallowly and moves around a lot on undulating roads. Also bottoms out a lot. So I will see if the new cheapo shocks help. I have no idea how old the Spax ones are, but there is about 2mm of crud on them- underseal, mud etc. so much so it was by chance that I cleaned one down to discover that it was yellow! We don't MOT classics in Ireland so it will never be tested. Thanks guys.
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9716 wrote:In fairness, at any sort of speed, most of the smell gets blown away :P Sit with me in the car after a few beers and you will be changing your tune! ;-)
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Will 175 70 13 tyres fit on the standard steel wheel? I'm currently on 155s with the original wheels. I only fitted new Firestones 155s 2 years ago as I didn't think that 175s would fit?? The tyre fitter actually asked me what they were for as they are a tiny tyre! ;-)
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Good luck! 8)
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GT6_Don wrote:Steady on Rob. I think he may need cooling down! Rob, you need a fan fitted! :P 8)
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I have wondered this as well. But the Kenlowe fan that I fitted it specifically designed for the front of the rad. And as said above, blocking the front or the back of the rad has the same effect.
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From memory a brand new one from Rimmers, etc. is about 130?? Worth checking.
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Where are did you buy it? That is shocking that there is rust in it.
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Freebird wrote:But marco, if the fault is in the master cylinder (is that what an MBC is?) the pedal would not be hard with the flexi lines clamped off would it?? Yes sorry, I usually hate abbreviations! Master Brake Cylinder (MBC) Yes I agree, and while it didn't go "hard" it definitely was harder. I didn't have enough clamps to clamp all four lines so was doing one at a time. Being "harder" made be jump to the conclusion that it was both calipers. But thinking back it was only marginally harder and at that stage I was willing to grab any false hope! But yes, as you say, with all the brake lines clamped the pedal should be rock solid if it is working right. But a caliper is either leaking fluid- as in alot of fluid or else is full of air for the pedal to hit the floor. And I was doing all of this with the handbrake off. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.
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4526 wrote: What was he issue then ? I've looked at one caliper and seems the brakes are a bit better now, still need to pump. Not saying that it is your issue, but for me 2 months later, fresh bulk head paint ruined, brake calipers rebuilt twice, 10 litres of brake fluid wasted while bleeding, changing brake lines, replaced calipers with brand new ones, cursing and frustration..... it came back down to the MBC. I put the chain of events down as this: - I rebuilt the brake calipers, but the bleeding process caused the seals in the MBC to fail causing the brake pedal to go to the floor. Pumping it would make it go hard (Oh matron! ;-) ) but it would then loose pressure when held. - Sent off for a brand new MBC and fitted it. The same problem was there. - So I started off on a wild goose chase with the above. Initially blaming the rebuilt brake calipers and after the 2nd rebuild I just sent off for brand new ones. Problem was still there... - Eventually it came down to being supplied with a brand new faulty BMC.....
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4526 wrote:Freebird told me to test something else .. Clamped off the flexi hoses at the front and pedal goes hard ... so it will be the calipers then ? :-/ If that's the problem, really thinking of buying new calipers :o I did the same and I found that the pedal went harder, so I was also convinced that it was the calipers and then just bought new ones.........it wasn't the issue. I feel your pain! Grrr! Logically thinking, the only way a caliper can make the pedal go to the floor is if it is full of air, or else is leaking fluid everywhere. So if the calipers are mounted correctly (with bleed nipple at the top) and are bled, then there is no air. If there is no fluid being sprayed all over the ground, then there is no leak........... But the one sure way to eliminate them is to buy new ones like I did.
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When I had my issue I ended up blaming the rebuilt calipers so I then pulled the off again and rebuilt they all over again. Still the same. So in the end I just bit the bullet and bought new ones………. It was still the same!! So I started to think along these lines: - If a piston is ceased and cannot move, then the pedal will be rock hard the same as when the piston is up hard against the disk. - If the caliper/ piston seals were leaking allowing the pedal to go to the floor, then they would have to be losing fluid all over the ground! A seep would not do that. - And after the 100,000th time of bleeding the brakes I guessed that you would need a caliper fuel of air to allow the pedal to go to the floor. So it was not air. I am not sure if I was right or wrong, but 2 months later and a lot of frustration and money later I was back to where the problem started, in my the MBC… so the third time lucky of replacing/ rebuilding it the problem was fixed. I can’t remember exactly, but if you get a hard pedal halfway down, then surely it is good? I think even in my everyday car the pedal is ¼ or ½ down before it is solid??
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Were they brand new pistons? I smothered mine in red rubber grease but that then allowed the dust boot to keep popping off as it was so slippery. The new replacement pistons that I got were just steel whereas the old ones were chrome plated. I think that I'll go stainless steel the next time.
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4526 wrote: I also damaged my door as there where 2 drops of fluid on it .... hating brakes and brake fluid so much right now (angry) Ah no way! :-/ Again I feel you pain. When I was replacing the old MBC with a brand new one I decided to respray the whole bulk head. Took it down to metal, undercoat, multiple top coats and two coats of clear lacquer. It's looked great! :-) But then with the new MBC being faulty and me being totally impatient as I was so p1ssed off, fluid destroyed the bulk head... :-( Anyway stick at it and good luck. It does no harm to take a break and go back at it with fresh head.