GT6Craig
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Everything posted by GT6Craig
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I have fitted a Motolita steering wheel and for some reason it's giving me a nasty belt when driving! It's awful as I HATE electric shocks more than anything. Anyone else experienced this? Any pointers? (other than drive wearing gloves)
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Hi Steve, My thoughts are as below 1) I would remove from disc and replace the piston seals at the very least, and possibly new pistons if the coating has peeled off and or the surface finish is poor. You don't have to 'split' the caliper to do this I don't recall. 2) As above (at least the piston seals). You can use an airline on the fluid entry port to 'blow' the piston out. It should move on air relatively freely, using only your air gun pushed against the hole. 3) Yes, that's what I did with reasonable results. Although I should of used the old pistons to suitably mask off the piston cylinder, and had them blasted. 4) You really need specialist brake caliper paint as you will inevitably get a brake fluid leak at some point and you don't want the paint bubbling off. Cheers Craig
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To close this one out, I can confirm that the Lucas 33756 152SA switch fits and works perfect. You have a spare terminal at the back, but I just put a bit of tape on it. I took it to pieces before fitting and as it's a much newer switch it's a lot more robust in design than the original.
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I used some phosphuric acid bought from eBay. Sufficiently cleaned and etched ready for a can of tank sealant sloshed around.
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Yep both indicators and flasher/hazards relays work fine. Not familiar with PF Jones...will take a look thanks!
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Evening all, Having stripped the hazard switch down numerous times, and tried every combination of wiring at the back, I cannot seem to get it to work correctly. No matter what I do, I either have one side working or both sides working so fast that the bulbs don’t have much chance to shine, and all I get is a faint glow. Am I missing something about how the hazard flasher system works? The switch has seen better days and I have had to solder a couple of wires on the back where the tabs have broken off. It looks like the rocker type switches are nigh impossible to get hold of, any thoughts on if would this one fit/work? http://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/lucas-33756-152sa-hazard-warning-light-switch-424-p.asp I'm trying to avoid paying £40 for a new one. :o
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Thanks for all of the above advice guys. Still on the hunt for the door internals - so far no one has been able to help. I have tried the following Quiller Spitfire Graveyard Chic Doig Wins I'm holding out for Southern Triumph next, who are going to call me back. My car is pretty much ready to roll out of the garage - pending these bits! Any other pointers would be appreciated.
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Thanks for all of the above advice guys. Still on the hunt for the door internals - so far no one has been able to help. I have tried the following Quiller Spitfire Graveyard Chic Doig Wins I'm holding out for Southern Triumph next, who are going to call me back. My car is pretty much ready to roll out of the garage - pending these bits! Any other pointers would be appreciated.
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Quote:Canleys? http://www.canleyclassics.com/.....&xsl=diagram.xsl as for the cat, give it a pile of a few old towels (clean) and some chicken in an area away from carpet, itll probably sleep on there from then on Canleys dont have what I need, but thanks! Quote:Give Wins International a call http://www.winsintltd.co.uk/ I have had a number of bits off them over the years. Good shout, but nothing in stock at the minute. Quote:Chic Doig. Chris. Engaged - will try them soon :-) You damn Spitfire owners with your GT6 window conversion 8)
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Quote:Canleys? http://www.canleyclassics.com/.....&xsl=diagram.xsl as for the cat, give it a pile of a few old towels (clean) and some chicken in an area away from carpet, itll probably sleep on there from then on Canleys dont have what I need, but thanks! Quote:Give Wins International a call http://www.winsintltd.co.uk/ I have had a number of bits off them over the years. Good shout, but nothing in stock at the minute. Quote:Chic Doig. Chris. Engaged - will try them soon :-) You damn Spitfire owners with your GT6 window conversion 8)
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Morning all, Having accidently sold the internal mechanisms for my GT6 doors, and failing miserably in trying to fabricate the various bits and pieces, I am looking to buy the gubbins to get my doors operational again. Having tried Spitfire Graveyard, Quiller’s and Spitbitz with little success, I am looking for more suggestions on who I can turn to for help. I need pretty much everything from the inside of the door, less the glass, quarterlights, and handles. Any other companies who can help would be appreciated. There is a cat in my neighbourhood who insists on sleeping on my lovely new carpet so I really need to get this sorted. (I have taped some cardboard up for now).
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Morning all, Having accidently sold the internal mechanisms for my GT6 doors, and failing miserably in trying to fabricate the various bits and pieces, I am looking to buy the gubbins to get my doors operational again. Having tried Spitfire Graveyard, Quiller’s and Spitbitz with little success, I am looking for more suggestions on who I can turn to for help. I need pretty much everything from the inside of the door, less the glass, quarterlights, and handles. Any other companies who can help would be appreciated. There is a cat in my neighbourhood who insists on sleeping on my lovely new carpet so I really need to get this sorted. (I have taped some cardboard up for now).
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Black mate!
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Black mate!
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Hmm, it appears the seller did the old 'it's for a spitfire so it must fit a GT6' trick. Part number tallies up with Rimmer bro's Spitfire door seals. Note to self: pay attention next time. Assume the spitfire seal is shorter to account for the soft top!
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Hmm, it appears the seller did the old 'it's for a spitfire so it must fit a GT6' trick. Part number tallies up with Rimmer bro's Spitfire door seals. Note to self: pay attention next time. Assume the spitfire seal is shorter to account for the soft top!
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I bought some furflex door seals a few years back and have finally got around to using them. Imagine my dismay to find them considerably too short, about a foot infact. Am I missing something? I thought they needed to seal the entire 'door frame'!
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I bought some furflex door seals a few years back and have finally got around to using them. Imagine my dismay to find them considerably too short, about a foot infact. Am I missing something? I thought they needed to seal the entire 'door frame'!
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Quote:All, Does anyone have any feedback regarding the quality of the Stainless Bumpers advertised by Group Harrington on Ebay? My car will be back from the bodyshop shortly and I need to look at acquiring the parts i'll need to finish. Thanks Phil I have a set. Very happy with them. If you're ever in Manchester, you're welcome to pop by for a look.
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Fair comments Louis! It is with mentioning equipment. You will need a 50 ltr compressor at least. I picked mine up for £40 second hand. Ideally, it would have 10cfm or more but mine doesn’t come close to that so the compressor needs to work a little harder to keep up. To be honest, the nature of spraying cellulose (lots of light coats) gives the compressor time to catch up. I bought a DeVilbiss FLG5 Finishline HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) off of eBay for £100 and it makes spraying the top coat on so much easier. It only requires 2bar at the gun but does ask for 9-10cfm. As said, mine offers a little less than that but it seems to work ok. The one on eBay comes with a 1.4 nozzle and I have found this fine for cellulose. To ensure that I have 2bar at the gun (when you pull the trigger the gauge should show 2bar) I bought a small pressure regulator like the below http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/wood_finishing/technique/hvlp_spray/basic_1/wfsgac06aro_spray_gun.jpg You can lay on the primer with the cheapest gun you can find (i.e. the ones often included in the cheapo air compressor starter sets). I also used a water trap just after the compressor; it cost about £14 from tool station. It isn’t very efficient, but combined with a dry day it is sufficient to stop most water spraying out of your spray gun! If this does happen, just carry on spraying and when sanding between coats, the water droplet will be sanded out and covered by later coats, or invisible as it’s on top of earlier coats. Hope this makes sense. A spray job can be done on the cheap. Compressor = £50-100 Spray gun = £100 Water trap at compressor = £14 Gauge at gun = £10 Various fittings to put it all together = £5 Paint = £100 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CELLULOSE-CAR-PAINT-20-Litre-RE-SPRAY-BS-ROYAL-BLUE-KIT-/370836955787?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item56579ae28b Anyway, we digress, a small mountain to climb before you get to the painting to stage – but we have all been there...
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This is a very loose and rough overview of how I did it. A lot of people have VERY strong opinions when it comes to painting and like everything, there are many ways to do it... I would start off doing as you are doing, and get back to bare metal. On some panels I didn't and regretted it later when it reacted later on. I had to start all over again. I wouldn't worry about flash rust just yet.. I would likely choose cellulose paint purely because a) it is cheap b) anyone can have good results with it c) faults can easily be rectified d) it dries quickly e) you dont need an oven. I would then go around the car and look/feel for any dints or areas which required filling (using wire wool to remove any flash rust, followed by degreasing, then filling). Once the filling and sanding has been done. I would then use a 1k (cellulose based) etch primer. This "bites" into the bare steel and provides an excellant surface for the next few coats of "high build primer". I have had good results with upol cellulose high build, but some others have not. I would then use a can of any old rattle can paint and lightly dust over the car. I would then wet sand the entire body again with a foam sanding pad and 600 grade sandpaper or similiar. This sands off the rattle can paint at the high spots, and the rattle can paint stays untouched at the low spots...this shows the areas which need a little more filler... I would repeat the above process until I was sure that the panels were perfectly flat. If I sanded through to bare metal, I would lay on a little more etch primer. Any pin holes or deep scratches in the filler can be filled with fine finishing filler, or "stopper" as it is more commonly called. Remember it needs to be 1k if you choose cellulose. Once you are happy that the body is perfect (the top coat will show any imperfection no matter how small), you are ready for the colour coat. For cellulose, I would be spraying onto a surface that has been finished with 800 grit wet and dry. Start with a light dusting, then progressively add more and more layers. (I laid about 5 on during the first sitting). I left this for a few weeks, wet sanded again, and applied a few more coats. Then, after a month or two (when the car has been rebuilt and the paint is properly hard) you can wet sand the whole thing with 1000 grit, polish with Farecla G6, t-cut, then auto glym super resin polish, then wax - all by hand. This is an excellent website for the amateur. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm The above is assuming you will have a go yourself!
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Quote:In the meantime I will continue to rub down to bare metal the rest of the car and hopefully soon put it into red oxide primer. Should I be concerned with minimum temperature before applying the primer and is there anything I should do to the bare metal before applying? Bare metal is good, much less chance of any reactions occurring...be cautious of silicone based products in the area though. That would spell disaster and your paint will 'fish eye' where the microscopic particles of silicone have landed. Just a thought as some of these maintenance sprays and such products contain silicone. I have personally used red oxide as a primer just recently. I am less than impressed with how the cellulose has adhered to it. It's fine, but I don't think it will be particularly hard wearing. What paint system are you using? Bare metal needs to be etched...and the temp needs to be ambient, but more importantly, not so damp. Even with a moisture separator you will get a lot of water in the line this time of year. If primering, I would wait for a very drive day and heat my garage up a little. Not hot, just above 16 degrees or so.
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Quote:Now I have removed the webasto I am considering returning the roof to full steel as it came out of the factory. has anyone undertaken this? Is it a case of replacing the full roof section or could a panel section be welded in. Alternatively I install a new webasto. I cut up an old roof and filled in an awful 80's sunroof on mine. Horrible job as the roof being such a big sheet of steel, it was nearly impossible to stop it warping and pulling. I used a joggler to put a lip in the roof opening and tacked, then seam welded in a piece cut from the old roof. A skim of filler and MANY hours of sanding, guide coating, and more sanding later you would never tell it was ever there. I would keep the period Webasto if I was you. Too much of a job and I will not be tackling it again...
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Thanks chaps!
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So what is the thought on the 'HE' designation on some Triumph engine codes? The general opinion seems to be that it stands for high compression engine. Would this be standard fayre in UK GT6's? Does "HE" make an engine any more rare or valuable? Cheers!