GT6Craig
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Everything posted by GT6Craig
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Some images of mine..
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Sorry , link no longer available That's a decent thread. I bought mine from Newton commercial and it didn't come with the A post trim, although it did come with the B post. I used a bit of vinyl matched to the doors (supplied by park lane classics) for that. Very easy to fit, using lots of bull dog clips and Evo-Stik 528 contact adhesive. Finishes the car nicely. Although as noted above, you need to make some new rear boards unless yours are in good condition.
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Great! Can't wait to see some videos of the acceleration!
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Cheers mate, truth be known I just put plenty on, sanded the drips, flies and dust out and polished it well. That's the beauty of cellulose, although it's not perfect. The whole job cost about £80 in filler paint and sandpaper. Compressor was second hand at £50, spray gun was £100 although Molten has had excellent results with a cheap one. I ought to do a write up or something , shame I didn't take more photos.
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This can be the outcome if done right. Even I only had a small garage and 50ltr compressor. That's after a few hours of elbow grease, Farecla G6 cutting paste and t-cut. Will be like glass when I finish with autoglym super resin polish and the finishing cream. Prep is key and the author of this thread Scott helped with that :) Start a thread when you are ready and I'm sure plenty of people with chip in with good advice.
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http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm This is all you need!
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Quote:Hello Bruce, I must apologise, this is the first time I have read your thread due to being busy doing a bit of restoration work myself, it was nice to see my old workshop and even nicer to see how your car was coming along, I think I'm a bit behind you. I was going to ask if anyone had made a wiring loom for a GT6 as mine is in a very bad condition and see that you have already done that, do you have a readme on how to do it or could you write one, I would rather replace mine as the wires are to brittle in my opinion to put back together and I would like to replace it? http://www.mygt6.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/GT6MkIIIwiring.jpg If you havent seen this before Benny it may be very useful when creating a loom. I have found it most useful when carrying out electrical work on mine...
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Quote:Bruce, great thread, truly inspiring and full of useful information. I have just taken delivery of my 3rd Gt6, but my first full restoration. I'm really looking forward to getting back into Triumphs (why did i ever leave) and starting on the rebuild, but I am apprehensive about welding, I have really set my heart on doing everything, except the paint myself. I must say seeing all the hidden rust on your restoration has prepared me (not completely) for some scary surprises. Best of luck. Brett If you have the space, or can time that phase of the restoration with the summer, I would recommend having a go at the painting yourself. I dont want to start the "Cellulose vs Other paints" war, but it really is easy to work with and provided you lay plenty on, and are good with a rubber sanding pad, damp cloth and t-cut, you can achieve a piano finish. Provided you take the time and prep well of course... Just a thought. I will look out for your restoration thread.
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Westgate Fasteners in Yarmouth mate. They seem to stock everything!
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Westgate Fasteners in Yarmouth mate. They seem to stock everything!
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Where Rob keeps his Spit is only 2mins away. If we are having a Triumph party let me know!
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Might seem a bit daft, but can you replace the top shocker bush with the spring/shock in place? (provided the full weight of the car is on all 4 wheels)
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Hi Bruce, do you have some templates for the boot boards? Where abouts are you based? Will need a set for mine and yours look quite good!
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Quote:Good ones are two piece for the wishbones and radius arms Doh! They did come as a proper polybush kit... Anthony, can you use a large socket on one side of the arm, and use a smaller socket to push the tube through in a vice?
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I fitted polybushes on my GT6 last week...needed a vice and a selection of sockets. And blood, sweat, tears etc. but once I got the knack it was easy. Part bushings? All my wishbone bushes were single pieces of polyurethane (with a lip on each end). Once these were forced in, I then inserted the steel tube with a vice and socket.
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Gave my spare lot to another forum user. Although I have one remaining pole. PM me if you want it!
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Mate, I totally forgot about this. I am feeling really guilty as I was meant to sort this out months ago... Managed to get married, set up a business, fit a kitchen, and spray my mk3 in between so I have had a lot on! Anyway, I have the poles in my possession now (3 off) and they are ready for dispatch tomorrow. Check your PM's.
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Quote:Quote:Quoted from GT6Craig Be better on a belt sander Why? Where you suggesting angle grinding the flange face to remove pitting? The bed of a table belt sander (even them little ones from B&Q) give a relatively flat surface to “work out” minor pitting… I have seen a good finish from linishing a manifold flange face on one. Just a thought….obviously milling would be the best and recommended option.
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Be better on a belt sander :-/
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Insurance values for a restoration project
GT6Craig replied to Nick Jackson (2)'s topic in Triumph Chat
As a ball park figure, what premium should someone anticipate to pay for project/laid up cover? My mk3 is looking more like a car these days so I really need to be thinking about this! -
Nice work John, Might need some advice in a couple of years as I fancy having a go at the ultimate kids toy car.. http://cars.uk.msn.com/news/is-this-the-world%E2%80%99s-greatest-toy-car Need a kid first.
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Good work John. Might need some advice in a couple of years as I fancy having a go at the ultimate kids toy car.. http://cars.uk.msn.com/news/is-this-the-worlds-greatest-toy-car.htm Need a kid first.
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Quote:They only rot between the bumpers. Include the bumpers. ;D
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Hmmm...Is there anywhere these cars don't rot... In that case I'd buy a steel one that needed repairs in the places I could reach, i.e. lower wings and arches. It will cost a bit more than a fibreglass one but will save you much more heartache in the long run.
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Bruce, which part of your bonnet is shot? There is a guy on eBay selling wings and inner arches he's cut from various scrap bonnets... I bought a set for £50 and have just unpicked the welds and the panels are good to go again. I'd stick with metal all the way...unless your building something intended to be light weight.