Pete TR7
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Thanks Brendan, I had been thinking about the 25ACR which I think has been used on the Landrover Discovery but didn't know if it would be a straight swap.
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I am looking to replace the alternator on the Spitfire. The current one dates back to the mid 70s. I want to get one with a higher output, around 65amp to cope with the extra items I have added, worst case pull could be just above 40amps. Any suggestions that won't break the bank?
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Probably best to weld an iron bar across the door gap. I have used a door gap adjuster, but I don't think that would be robust enough for what you are planning.
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I got my tube from B&Q, dont remember the price.
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ferny wrote: Fronts also require a warning light. I wired mine up to an independent switch so I could use them how I wanted. At MOT I took the fuse out. Lights no work, lights no have to comply with regulations. :) Sorry, have to disagree with that one. My TR7 has front fogs and factory fitted switch and no warning lamp for the fronts - tell tale for the rear fogs only, no problems.
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Bigger pic
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This what I have. I like them because they are small. Lamps are wired through relays as are the standard headlamps. Driving lamps come on with high beam. Fogs are wired from the 1500 wiring loom using a second Spitfire light switch, the front come on second position the rears come on as well. The rears require a tell tale but I have one for both, ideally the rear fogs should turn off when the high beam is turned on. I have 2 blade fuse boxes to replace the original glass, each takes 6 fuses. Despite the size they work very well. Personally I like to avoid anything in front of the radiator, it reduces the airflow to the radiator.
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beans wrote: I contacted Revington instead. Second picture is with their rear springs newly fitted. Oooo, just looked at their website, never realised they did TR7 as well :B Very interesting.
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Echoes my experience, I went back to to the standard springs, ride height was lower and more comfortable. Fitting KYB shocks made the difference.
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I have used Greenstuff on the Spitfire for many years, there was not much difference over standard to start with until I fitted a servo, then they started working. Basically putting more force on the pads got them up to a proper working temperature. Ok so I have weak legs ;) I use Mintex on the TR7, much better than standard but they do not last long about 8K and there is a lot more dust than the Greenstuff.
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Hmm, had a look at the car this weekend, lower mounting plates are no problem, but the upper ones look difficult to get at, any suggestions?
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The car always looks better in photos, i am only halfway through the rebuild really. I think some panels from Moss some from Fitchetts and some from Rimmers. the main thing is too get heritage panels where you can. BMH still use some original tooling and i believe Fitchetts do as well. BMH supply the trade so you can shop around. Check the BMH website to see what they make, i thing they also own steelcraft which are reproduction panels.
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I don't class myself as an expert. Earlier this year I replaced the o/s floor and sill on my Spitfire, this seemed a very daunting task but is now complete. Take your time and plan your work. I would get the tub and chassis sorted first, strip out the seats, carpets and trim to see what you have, tackle one side at a time. I still have much to do, more work on the body tub in a couple of years and currently I have the rear suspension apart again. I use the angle grinder with a flap disc to remove as much rust as I can and then treat with dilute phosphuric acid to create a barrier. Breaking down the work into stages makes it easier to get done. Oh and by the way the only original panel on the bonnet is the top, I replaced the wings, front strengthener and headlamp panels. Lots cheaper than a new bonnet Good luck.
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Thanks for all the replies guys, looks like I will be making new plates and welding a nut on. Not looking forward to the limited access though, but hey ho :) Plates 3/16" is it?
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Now I have the Spitfire back together I have a slight problem getting the door to hang properly. Some of the threads in the bolt plates inside the A post have stripped so the hinges have only a 2 bolts securing them instead of 3, this is the single one furthest from the door. Its been like this for years but having replaced the floor and sills I want to get the alignment right now. So any tips on how to correct this? I have heard that you can drill and retap for a larger bolt, possibly M8, or what about using a helicoil repair?