Pete TR7
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Everything posted by Pete TR7
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Thanks Brendan, I had been thinking about the 25ACR which I think has been used on the Landrover Discovery but didn't know if it would be a straight swap.
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I am looking to replace the alternator on the Spitfire. The current one dates back to the mid 70s. I want to get one with a higher output, around 65amp to cope with the extra items I have added, worst case pull could be just above 40amps. Any suggestions that won't break the bank?
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Probably best to weld an iron bar across the door gap. I have used a door gap adjuster, but I don't think that would be robust enough for what you are planning.
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I got my tube from B&Q, dont remember the price.
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ferny wrote: Fronts also require a warning light. I wired mine up to an independent switch so I could use them how I wanted. At MOT I took the fuse out. Lights no work, lights no have to comply with regulations. :) Sorry, have to disagree with that one. My TR7 has front fogs and factory fitted switch and no warning lamp for the fronts - tell tale for the rear fogs only, no problems.
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Bigger pic
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This what I have. I like them because they are small. Lamps are wired through relays as are the standard headlamps. Driving lamps come on with high beam. Fogs are wired from the 1500 wiring loom using a second Spitfire light switch, the front come on second position the rears come on as well. The rears require a tell tale but I have one for both, ideally the rear fogs should turn off when the high beam is turned on. I have 2 blade fuse boxes to replace the original glass, each takes 6 fuses. Despite the size they work very well. Personally I like to avoid anything in front of the radiator, it reduces the airflow to the radiator.
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beans wrote: I contacted Revington instead. Second picture is with their rear springs newly fitted. Oooo, just looked at their website, never realised they did TR7 as well :B Very interesting.
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Echoes my experience, I went back to to the standard springs, ride height was lower and more comfortable. Fitting KYB shocks made the difference.
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I have used Greenstuff on the Spitfire for many years, there was not much difference over standard to start with until I fitted a servo, then they started working. Basically putting more force on the pads got them up to a proper working temperature. Ok so I have weak legs ;) I use Mintex on the TR7, much better than standard but they do not last long about 8K and there is a lot more dust than the Greenstuff.
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Hmm, had a look at the car this weekend, lower mounting plates are no problem, but the upper ones look difficult to get at, any suggestions?
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The car always looks better in photos, i am only halfway through the rebuild really. I think some panels from Moss some from Fitchetts and some from Rimmers. the main thing is too get heritage panels where you can. BMH still use some original tooling and i believe Fitchetts do as well. BMH supply the trade so you can shop around. Check the BMH website to see what they make, i thing they also own steelcraft which are reproduction panels.
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I don't class myself as an expert. Earlier this year I replaced the o/s floor and sill on my Spitfire, this seemed a very daunting task but is now complete. Take your time and plan your work. I would get the tub and chassis sorted first, strip out the seats, carpets and trim to see what you have, tackle one side at a time. I still have much to do, more work on the body tub in a couple of years and currently I have the rear suspension apart again. I use the angle grinder with a flap disc to remove as much rust as I can and then treat with dilute phosphuric acid to create a barrier. Breaking down the work into stages makes it easier to get done. Oh and by the way the only original panel on the bonnet is the top, I replaced the wings, front strengthener and headlamp panels. Lots cheaper than a new bonnet Good luck.
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Thanks for all the replies guys, looks like I will be making new plates and welding a nut on. Not looking forward to the limited access though, but hey ho :) Plates 3/16" is it?
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Now I have the Spitfire back together I have a slight problem getting the door to hang properly. Some of the threads in the bolt plates inside the A post have stripped so the hinges have only a 2 bolts securing them instead of 3, this is the single one furthest from the door. Its been like this for years but having replaced the floor and sills I want to get the alignment right now. So any tips on how to correct this? I have heard that you can drill and retap for a larger bolt, possibly M8, or what about using a helicoil repair?
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Chriss wrote:Pete have you seen the thread on Wheel Vibration? You may find an answer there. I have just read the thread, my problem is now just the rear, will post on the vibration thread. Re handling, it does depend on how you want to use the car, another suggestion is to fit a bigger anti-roll or sway bar, improves cornering without compromising ride. I use S&S preparations as main source of parts and advice, Rick will always find something you to need buy ;D
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This is my own experience as a novice, I use the car as daily transport during the summer so not a weekend or track car. When I bought my TR it was on standard springs and adjustable spax, the ride was very soft, fun but not great. I found out the rear shocks had gone and replaced with AVO - dont do this they are too long and bottom out. During a rebuild I fitted uprated lowered springs all round, kyb front shocks because the front spax had also failed, polybush throughout, front strut bearings and the antidive kit. The result was not good. The car was almost undriveable, the suspension was very hard with lots of vibration and although the rear was lowered the front ride height was increased and did not settle. I ended up going back to the original springs and KYB all round, this is the current set-up and the car is so much better, it does have a firm ride and the handling is excellent for me. Changing to polybush does firm up the suspension well but as in my case transmits vibration much more. I have a high speed vibration at 70mph, I have managed to reduced this to acceptable levels, I suspect the remaining problems are tyre/wheel related (I have the factory alloys). Agree, you will probably need to change the gearbox mount and remote extension bushes, I also had a rattle fromt the gear stick because the cap locating it to the remote extension was broken. Although my car is pretty standard I am very happy with the suspension and handling for how I use the car, the vibration is annoying on the motorway - unless I happen to accidently exceed the speed limit ;D
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Bit like mine,good price, last time i looked they were 13x5. Check the price includes nuts, centres and badges.
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I have recently changed my wheels from the standard steel. After quite some thought including Compomotive TH3 6x15, MGF, revolutions and in black I finally went down the conventional route and fitted sliver minilite replicas, 5.5x13. I must admit I like the effect with Pageant blue, liked the price better especially as I could used my existing 170x70 tyres Not driven with them yet, should have the MOT in the next fortnight.
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Personally I would go for motilita, good range
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MkIII, MkIV and 1500 Spitfires had simple ABS plastic just glued to the top of the door, didn,t know GT6 had some thin padding, interesting to know.
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MkIII, MkIV and 1500 Spitfires had simple ABS plastic just glued to the top of the door, didn,t know GT6 had some thin padding, interesting to know.
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Should be able to fabricate a repair, use 1.1mm thick steel, follw the outline of the door and bonnet. If you can see another car even a 1500 should follow the same lines. Make something out of cardboard first. It does not look that difficult. I have a worse problem of recreating the rear heel panel support and heel panel with no references. Takes time and experimenting.
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I can't really see but I agree, does not look like a tricky repair panel to make. Is it just the end bit?
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smithy wrote: :) It was good to see you mate. John says Hi! Cheers Johns a good bloke, taught me a lot about food as fuel.