Twincarb
-
Posts
54 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Twincarb
-
Thanks for the reply, I am sure there is nothing wrong with using Graphite just 30 years down the line I wondered if there was something else on the market.
-
When rebuilding the rear spring Haynes says to use Graphite grease... What is the best grease to use? Would Moly grease serve the same purpose?
-
I would have thought that the first option would be to mechanically remove all the rust.... and reserve a chemical to any area you can't reach easily. An angle grinder with a flapper disk would be ideal, as it's an angle grinder you will also be using it to cut out metal as required prior to any welding. It's great to see your enthusiasm for your project having some basic tools will assist you greatly. You will probably find that as the years pass you will still be using them as well!
-
I am doing the bearings as a matter of course and already have the hubs off. Both sides are all stripped down with just the "dust cover" in place. The UJ's are only £10 a side so is no great problem I was considering replacing it again as a matter of course.... Essentially anything that moves on the suspension/steering side is being refreshed.
-
All points are being taken on-board.... I have got a replacement shaft in my shopping basket ready for the next order that I put in. Any yes the potential risk is one that isn't worth it in the long run.... It will be daunting enough taking it for the first drive when it's ready... Just got to avoid the temptation to blast it down the runway before giving it a shakedown! Promise there will be a video of the first test drive all be it in a few months down the line!
-
The damaged threads are 3 or 4 down from the beginning and appear to last for only 2 threads. I am only guessing but whoever had the hubs off in the past did the damage while removing the original nut or after it was removed. When I got my hands on it there were 2 nuts on it a newer one closer to the hub assembly and an older on on the outside held on by about 3 turns. as shown in the image below. The newer nut was just spinning and appears to have been stripped when it was turned down onto the Hub hence why the other one held it into place. I should have taken a photo to add on here. I checked the photo's I have but the point of focus isn't the threads when it is returned I will take a clear shot.
-
Still waiting to find out if the thread was savable bust by recutting it..... But am taking on-board the above comments.
-
I realise that the tensile strength would potentially change however as the metal is being replaced and it would be forming the new metal essentially the old and the new metal would be formed into one. The company I would take it to would either guarantee the work would be suitable for the application or would simply advise they are not prepared to do it. The thread would be cut into the newly formed metal if failure was going to occur I would expect it to happen when the initial torquing is done while taking it up to 163Nm. Knowing that motorcycle drive shafts can be repaired in a similar way I would have thought that it's a possible solution. Just got to wait and find out if the mechanic says it's repairable first
-
I am hoping that is all that it will be. cause you can't knock the cost of a packet of biscuits (even chocolate ones) for a favour!
-
2 of the threads have got some damage on them which is why it is worth trying to see if it is repairable. The guy who is doing the job will give an honest opinion if he says not to use it I wont. As an alternative I guess that some extreme welding ie welding through the existing thread to give a solid shaft once again and then putting it through the lathe to bring it back to size and then cutting an entire new thread is another option. The only company I know who would take that job on (not through madness but experience in what he is doing would probably charge about the cost of a new one anyhow!) At the moment it's costing me a packet of biscuits (chocolate ones!) for my mate to re cut it and then give an honest opinion on whether it is going to be fit for purpose.
-
Thanks for the quick reply will pass the details on.... fingers crossed it will re-cut ok and not be dead in the ground....
-
Can anyone say off the top of there heads what the thread size is which hold's the rear hub assembly in place on the spitfire 1500. I need to get mine re-cut as on closer inspection the thread is a little bit screwed! I have passed it onto a mechanic friend who can do it on his lunch-break but would be good if I can say what the size is.....
-
would the idea to use vinegar be using it as a mild acid... in which case if I recall adding [s]sugar[/s] Salt to it will make one that is slightly stronger.... White vinegar would work better than brown... Rinse it out with lots of water preferably a hose so you can get into every corner with a small amount of force
-
This is how they looked when I started... The one on the right has got 2 nuts on it for some reason.... is this time to get suspicious of someone's handywork before I got here.... only one way to find out.... In the vice and time to start cranking the big bolt.... One gave a saisfying pop as it gave the second jumped about an inch before settling back down This is them both off... the one on the right is the one that had 2 nuts on.... Best I post a clearer photo of what I found. Haven't got a photo which shows it clearly.... What has happened is the thread of the first nut had stripped and so the second nut was holding it securely in place... It looks like I should be able to just unwind the stripped thread and worst case scenario will be recutting the thread if needed. Will take another photo showing it before I attack it.... All I need to do now is push back the trunnions and then get the old bearings up... Any advice on here about this part?
-
Yeah thats a test patch on the door I haven't rubbed it down at all.... cause the paint has a very high gloss the finish is going to have to be spot on or any problems will show up! I managed to split the rear hubs last night, just got to take the rear trunions off along with taking the old bearings out. It was a bit on the cold side in the workshop last night approx 3 degrees so didn't even attempt to paint anything.... Not going to be able to finish the painting of the running gear etc untill prob next monday as this week I am on a course all week.... Got some more photo's to post later of how the hubs came apart.
-
I posted earlier saying that I didn't think that the LH vertical link was original.... Once I had cleaned it in the blaster all the original markings were showing! It had been painted several times by the looks of it and had some pretty heavily gunked on grease as well. Best I head off to work now and finish sorting out the rear axels! If only there was some heating in the hanger!!!!
-
Not been up to a lot recently with work getting in the way again however I managed to do some cleaning last night... I also spent 10 mins sorting out the colour on the photo's below so they are showing the colours off a lot better. As can be seen I haven't got a lot to finish cleaning this evening...
-
Not sure where you are but you can still get hold of the environmentally unfriendly Gunk from places like Halfords.... It will eat through it without any problems.... Saying that I want to know what degreasers the garages use as they just dip parts in and it comes out sparkling!
-
Have now checked the new stub and it's the right size.... comparing it to the old one it looks like the old one was cast and then shaped on a lathe the new one looks like it has been lathed from a rod. Will be cleaning the uprights this weekend so will post a couple of before and after pics.... With any luck once I have shown my face in work on monday I will be able to disappear and get some work done on the car....
-
The description side light suggests it is on the side of the car, however as mentioned it refers to the single normally small bulb that is also on the head lamp mounting.
-
The description side light suggests it is on the side of the car, however as mentioned it refers to the single normally small bulb that is also on the head lamp mounting.
-
Just got my Upright back from having the stub axle pushed out... It took 6 tons of pressure to break the seal.... On looking inside there appears to be a ring of rust where it would have bonded.... I have got a new stub axle ordered which should arrive today. Then it will be cleaning up the upright to remove the ring and check it's still useable. I think i will get some moly grease inside the joint to hopefully prevent it from occuring again.
-
Hi Bruce, For the chassis I have used rustoleum paints, the white paint is there primer which is designed for heavy industrial use (but available in 1ltr cans) I applied 2 coats with a paint brush.... applying it with a roller would have been far better and would have left a lot less to rub down! Once all is done I intend leaving the chassis just painted and then keep an eye on the chassis to see how it stands up to UK roads and chips. If it needs more protection I will just dinitrol it... The ball joints are just standard one's from rimmer it looks like the rubber can be pulled back to add extra grease but I have always thought of ball joints as consumerble items. The workshop is great the only downside is its 70 miles from where I live so can't just pop out to do 30 mins work when I am at home! Dave
-
having just been putting mine on, the wishbone at the bottom has a slightly oval shape to it. If you were to release the ball joint at the top and unscrew the hub/upright assembly away from the trunnion at the bottom you will probable find your able to tap the trunion up and down a small amount to break it free... It is a tight joint and you may find the trunion metal seals have deteriated.
-
Got a little bit of work done on the car today as can be seen below.... Didn't get around to getting Dinitrol into the sub frame as there wasn't going to be the time to get it sorted..... Front suspension is getting there now.... need to touch up a couple of areas with the black paint to tidy it up.