Dazman1360
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Everything posted by Dazman1360
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I have that very battery with a 45amp Lucas alternator and have various electrical accessories and it does just fine. The battery terminals are the opposite so the battery front needs to face backwards.
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I was a bit disappointed with the neoprene gaskets. Very thin and the excess that protruded from the rocker cover started splitting, leaked as well. I ended up using a flat sheet of cork and making my own.....still leaked a bit though!
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Ditto....
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heraldcoupe wrote: That's the way I've been going recently. Quality of aftermarket cables is utterly shocking in many cases, I cannibalised the 'new' cable on my last Spitfire for it's fittings to build one from a bike cable. . Ditto....
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17amp cable would have been what was used originally, like this: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1286 though I have started using thin wall cable as it's not so bulky: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1297
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I would also try rotating the prop 180 degrees at the gearbox flange, then if no better at the diff flange, then again at the Gearbox flange so you have tried all 4 combinations. No idea why this can make a difference, but it can.
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Many years ago a mechanic once said to me that anything under 100psi is not an engine, it's just moving parts. I've just had my 13/60 head skimmed, the guy that done it told me the heads were 3" thick from the factory, so maybe the wrong head as Colin/Nick suggested? I'd be inclined to take the head off and measure the CR, not that difficult to do and there are plenty of online calculators to do the maths for you.
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This might be useful: http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/infodatabase/noises.html&xsl=infodatabase.xsl
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Thanks for the replies. It's a 3 synch box so hopefully will fit without the shims. Cheers
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According to the Canley Classics Website, the correct length for the propshaft for a Herald fitted with a 3 Rail OD box is 46.5", however the Non-OD Vitesse propshaft is 47" and I have been told that this will also fit. Anyone done this conversion using the Vitesse propshaft?
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Think you would need block to be line bored to fit bearings/camshaft, might be an expensive option. I replaced mine (also GE small crank) with one from Jigsaw Racing, talk to Mark he can recommend one for you.
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Think you would need block to be line bored to fit bearings/camshaft, might be an expensive option. I replaced mine (also GE small crank) with one from Jigsaw Racing, talk to Mark he can recommend one for you.
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Thanks Keith. Box came with an angle drive and longer Speedo cable. Any ideas what the larger clutch plate is from?
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1218 wrote:The way of telling them apart is the 3 synchro boxes have a square rear flange and the 4 synchro has a round one. Mark Hi Mark, The gearbox has a round flange, but after popping the top off I can only see 3 Synchro Rings (image below), am I missing something here or do I just happen to have a 3 Synchro box with a round flange? 9110 wrote:If you go to the Canley Classics website, technical info section, it lists the triumph models and required propshaft lengths. Cheers, Dave. Great Info, thanks. Presumably the measurements quoted are from/to outer edge of the flanges? The sliding prop I have measures 43 1/2" (retracted) to 45 1/4" (extended), so the only car this could possibly fit would be a Vitesse with OD I guess? Or could just not for a Triumph? With the bundle of bits I got with the gearbox was a clutch driven plate, it has the correct spline for the gearbox and exactly the same as my non-OD box, but it has an OD of around 7 1/8" as opposed to the 6 1/2" for a standard Herald. Any ideas what the large clutch plate is from? Should I be using this or will a standard Herald clutch be fine? Thanks
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9110 wrote:If you go to the Canley Classics website, technical info section, it lists the triumph models and required propshaft lengths. Cheers, Dave. Thanks Dave
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Thanks for the replies. The flange is round, so looks as if it's a 4 sync box, that's good news. The gearbox is out of a spitfire so splines and input shaft length should be the same as the Herald. It came with a new solenoid, original angle drive, longer speedo cable and switch, so I only need mounting and mounting plate and sort wiring. I did buy a sliding prop a while back to replace my solid one, only when I tried to fit it to my non OD box did I realise it was shorter so I'm hoping it's the right one for an OD. If anyone does know what the length should be it'll save me having to wait until I fit it to find out. Cheers
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I’ve just bought a 3 Rail Gearbox with D-Type overdrive to fit into my 13/60 Herald, I just have a few questions that I’m sure someone can help with. • How can I identify if it is a 3 or 4 Sync Box? • If it’s a 3 Sync box is it simple to convert to 4 Sync? • Presumably you have to modify the propshaft tunnel to allow the extra length of the gearbox? • Can the existing Gearbox tunnel be used? • Does anyone know what length the shorter prop has to be from flange to flange? Many thanks
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I'd be inclined to put the old mechanical fuel pump back on to see if that fixes it. I don't know what the fuel pressure should be, but if the problem has started shortly after fitting an electric pump it has to be favourite.
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Thanks to all for clearing that up!
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In need of a Stag expert! The 2 images below are of the rear wing section where it meets the sill (between door and wheel arch). The sill has a raised strip/step that runs along the top, the top image shows the wing has been fitted flush and the bottom image with it more inward so retaining the step front to back. Is one wrong and the other right, or did this change during Stag production?
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junkuser wrote: :) 22/4/14 Sorry, should have acknowledged your earlier post as the inspiration for trying a different seal, so thank you.
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junkuser wrote: :) 22/4/14 Sorry, should have acknowledged your earlier post as the inspiration for trying a different seal, so thank you.
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Just an update on this which may help anyone else trying to fix the same issue. Fitted a Speedi-sleeve (Part No. SKF CR99162), which didn't solve the problem unfortunately, so ordered and fitted an alternative seal from Barnwell, it's double lipped but isn't as deep as the originals, 0.37" as opposed to 0.5" and to date the leak has stopped. Here's the link for anyone wanting to try one: Click Here.
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Just an update on this which may help anyone else trying to fix the same issue. Fitted a Speedi-sleeve (Part No. SKF CR99162), which didn't solve the problem unfortunately, so ordered and fitted an alternative seal from Barnwell, it's double lipped but isn't as deep as the originals, 0.37" as opposed to 0.5" and to date the leak has stopped. Here's the link for anyone wanting to try one: Click Here.
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Nick_Jones wrote:Can't turn the spacer round on a 13/60 'cause it's all part of the pulley. Packing the seal back a bit might work though and speedi sleeves are magic http://www.barnwell.co.uk/catalog/index.php/cPath/23/osCsid/6o4b62ci12qba21vn383pcrr27 You have to measure it though..... Nick Nick, There are 2 options for the sleeve with the correct diameter SKF CR99161 & SKF CR99162, the difference being the width. In my rush to order I didn't check this so ordered the narrower of the 2 which has arrived and is too narrow, the wider (now looking at the dimensions) is wider but not a huge amount. Presumably this didn't cause you any issues when you fitted yours? Darren