chamchella

Well we now have a new control shaft which has a 25% increase in torque required to move through 5Deg and then we find that the original shaft and spool was drilled 5deg off Centre at the input end??? This means that it would not be possible to fit new components to these power steering spools as each one may be different. If a new input shaft does fix the steering feel then each one would need to have the unit partly assembled and the input drilled in situ? It makes one wonder how many other components on the Stag suffered such ignominy.

I now have a better appreciation of what is going on. The test rig worked a treat. I transpires that the inner spool only has to move 2.5  degrees (0.0195") before the power assist ports begin to be exposed. This requires 2.6 foot pounds of Torque at the shaft, which is next to nothing at the steering wheel and clearly relates to the light steering. The next step is to make up a couple of new torque shafts with say 15 and 20% more meat in them and see what happens.

I not that Stags have a high engine cruising RPM. Are there other ratio diffs available to bring the 60mph engine RPM down to say 2400?

I will have a look but I think the quickest way would be to see how many turns from lock to lock.

so I have a tr3a which uses 15 wheels. As far as i can see the Stag could use these and still have the same dia/circumference: A 185/70x14 is the same as a 185/65x15 or at least within 1.1% has anyone fitted 15 wheels to a Stag?

Does anyone have an opinion on how much to machine off a Stag flywheel to lighten it? I would have guessed at least 1KG could come off it to make it a bit more lively?

Pertronic make a system that fits into the original Stag distributor. I have been running Pertronic in TR3 for a long time and it has been faultless. Local reputation finds it better than lumenition.

I am thinking of fitting cruise control to (Stag) and understand that I will need to fit a trigger to the prop shaft to get road speed feedback. Is there a well trodden path to follow in doing this? I am having enough issues with simple stuff and do not want to overcomplicate it.

You are right about the rack ratios, Pre 1972 Stags had 4 turns lock to lock; 72 and 73 has 3 turns and 1974 onwards has 2 1/2 turns. the later Stags, 73 onwards had a smaller steering wheel as well; 141/2" against the 16" on earlier cars. This probably accounts for the heavier feel in the later Triumphs. I still think like most people that my 1975 steering is lighter than optimum and can be difficult to keep on line in corners. Perhaps the only way to find out is to make up a jig to measure the torque required for a specific torsional rotation and then experiment by making up a couple of new shafts with say a 10% and 15% increase in torque required to make the same rotation. Some would say that is a waste of time but then why else would we own a Stag?

Interesting Andy I might have a look around for one. I am in Tweed NSW.

Thanks Steve, I had thought that the torque bar drove the valve, however if the valve lags behind, it is the opposite to what I thought and lines up with another comment that replacing the drive pins made a difference in one case I read about. I am making up a jig to determine the deflection of the torque bar and was going to make up new bars rather than alter the original. It might be fiddly but it seems everyone agrees that stags did not have enough feel in the steering at road speeds. Rob

Hi, I am looking at how I can induce a little more feel at driving speeds into the stag steering and see that the control valve is operated by a torque bar down the centre of the valve assembly. My thoughts are to reduce the diameter of this torque bar to increase the amount of movement required before power is applied. Does anyone have any experience or comment on this subject? Cheers