Velocita Rosso

Since the hand book and original manufacture, tyres /rubber/compounds have changed dramatically, along with different manufacturers In the day ,there were not many tyre makes around over and above the Michelin/Firestone/Dunlops. Nowadays there are numerous manufacturers offering different treads and compounds. The spitfire pressures are originally printed as 21 and 26 and we have the GT 6 which has your specs. However, we run Yoko A 539 and they have a better `stickiness` road holding/handling and run at 30 psi Also dependent on what/how you use the car. We have numerous advertisers in the magazine ,and one such company, Longstone Tyres would be glad of your enquiry

I was thinking of the running adjustments eg by just adjusting the sliding linkage down the side of the o/d

D type should not require/have need for pressure gauge

Triumph Herald Estate, Maroon. reg. no 665 SVO .Not used since 1975, repaired to road worthy condition over the last 6 years. All welding done. Rare car good value at £2750. contact 07749352796 Photos available,contact for email address

Appreciate the thought...but you are not striking the bearings, ..there is only one strike needed and not repetitive. The direction of force is straight towards the diff flange and there would be no direct force on the outer roller nor inner needle bearings ., It is a recognized method of popping the flange as is using the correct stud mounting puller

Been doing this for decade's...does not affect the bearings whatsoever. Tighten the puller until can go no further...one almighty smack is really all it needs...ask an engineer!😉🤬

Where in the country are you?

No That is the way...bearings supported by bearing housing

Don't forget that pulling is not the 100 PC way to remove flange. When you get full tension on the puller , you use a club hammer to hit the puller shaft , and the flange should pop off. After a couple of whacks, if not off, tighten puller and whack again

Sam hope you are reading this in Los Angeles....if you are...that's sad!!! I got my last two from Fitchetts.,perfect fit

First, do a drop test on the battery to s3 if a cell has gone. Second, has the red light ever come on ? Has the bulb gone in the red light dash warning. This will stop any charging. Try a continuity test on the thin wire from dynamo/ alternator to red light bulb holder. This, if broken will also not allow a charge.. It's amazing how many people do not realise how much is dependent on that red light.

Hi not been on for weeks and just noticed this question. I have had many a problem over half shafts in my time and offer my expert opinion. A bent flange? Just buy new ,for what they cost..well worth it . A bent axle? Highly unlikely. Because the axle is well supported by the bearing carrier, and t he only place it may bend would be between bearing exit ,flange to tip. However they generally snap inside the flange hence giving a wobble. I have had two snap inside the flange,and you cannot see it unless the flange is removed with a bespoke 4 stud puller......or when the wheel falls off taking the flange and drum with it. The last time was in Austria on the 10cR .Just remove the shaft Assembly,replace bearings and fit new flange......and I will bet all ills will be cured.

Wanted...good Stag windscreen ....please!! Mike Velocita Rosso

Nick J will remember 2009 when we arrived at Malmedy....I rolled out and crawled on all fours before I could stand up...needing half a pack of Ibuprofen for the agony

To end every ones speculation of who, why or what, I have purchased a new 3 rail(recon) gearbox. There have been speculations and comments by a certain person, who should not be advertising sales and wants on CT`s Facebook page/account and a few intimating I don t know what I appear to be talking about. I have always had a 3 rail box in my Mk3 Spitfire and has a D type overdrive with ten spline clutch Maybe there are opinions that a single rail should be the way to go, but I do not intend converting and even changing to a J type over drive My car has done many more miles than most club members and ,I admit, had some hammer from auto solos to Ten Countries goat herding....and has done sterling service...until now, where by the gearbox has created no other problems previously. By mid week the car will be reassembled and ready for active service once more......that is to say ,if no more additional peripheral problems occur...like the steel water pump pipe to heater splitting, and the aluminium water pump housing having a poor thread to accommodate the new nut and olive, and the stainless exhaust pipe on number two outlet parting and need welding etc etc. The Ten CR certainly put a strain on the car this time and the Yorkshire pockets seem to be getting thread bare

3 rail, full syncro, overdrive 10 spline

I need a main shaft for a 3 rail,full syncro, overdrive gearbox 1500 Spitfire. Anyone have such a thing?

The 2000/V8 is on the road, as per text and mail this morning it has departed Italy by recovery truck and on the way home. If this is the efficiency of Philips Insurance company, I may consider changing my insurers.

Just this minute heard....the 2000 is being "repatriated in the next couple of days" , should be back home "in 10/15 days"😃😃

Who said that ,eh!?

So at nearly 73, I completed the latest 10 CR, and enjoyed it again after four previous The question is, at nearly 75 for the next one.....do i do it again...or consider this one as the final fling?

Readit! Readit !😄🐸

3.....!

Basically the same as ours...with USB recharge socket

Nothing like checking the car for a loose nut!😜