Saltddirk
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Everything posted by Saltddirk
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oh and all parts removed are still available...... for a price :D
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You realize that when we take the diff out from the Mk3 there is nothing preventing the wheels from going stargazing dont you? making the car even less mobile..... Oh No I got you, You needed an excuse to get cracking on it Not my fault luv, dirk needed the diffy and i can hardly leave her like that cluttering up my workshop cant i....(clap)
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Thanks Nick, The car has a 4 bolt spring from an upgrade kit. From what I gather it is either the 4.11 as i have now or a 3.89 giving away on torque and acceleration but gaining in topspeed. My main concern was that first gear would be too tall. Issue is that I'm not sure if my car had the 4.11, It just didnt seem right. I was going to check when removed from the car but seeing she was split I could bother. Let see if fleebay throws out a cheap 3.89 to experiment with. If not we can always go ahead and use the Mk3 one, it is not the first time she has been used as spares car ;D Good Idea in tapping the rear casing as well.
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Hi, started making a list today of things I still need to finish of the Mk2 when i realized that i still do not have a differential. The old one has the casing cracked, do not know how it happened for sure but i think I grounded out badly in one of the potholes gracing our roads. Irrelevant, i need a new one. So here is the question, which one to go for? I have no idea if the old one was the correct one, I always seemed to rev fairly high and not progressing :-/. I have an overdrive gearbox ,I use normal size tires on wires, and with Rob's nice Jigsaw Stage 2 tuned engine I could probably go for a taller one.. I am not so much a painter of 11's at the traffic lights but want to travel in relative comfort (noise wise) at 120 KM/H (that's about 70 MPH) and be able to follow the flow. I'm not looking to make her more sporty or anything but it just seem to me that with the old one i was lacking top speed for todays traffic. Dirk
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Blimey.... :(
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Sorry wim, Have to admit my ignorance with numbers, Yes they are I think, SU carbs as mounted standard on the Mk2
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Wim, If I am not mistaken I must still have the original KN's If I can find them you are welcome to have those, all you would then need is a bottle of Filter oil and clean them up. However you will have to wait until eastern as I wont be back before then and I'm sure nobody else will find his way through my stock control.
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Wim, If I am not mistaken I must still have the original KN's If I can find them you are welcome to have those, all you would then need is a bottle of Filter oil and clean them up. However you will have to wait until eastern as I wont be back before then and I'm sure nobody else will find his way through my stock control.
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Are these the ones you mean? I mistook them for KN's :-/ I bet they breath better than the ones you are intending of installing
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Wim, I see on your 1500 thread that on one of the pictures your car had K&N's installed. Why change them for these? These K&N's you can clean easily and you then oil them and they are as good as new. Actually that was why they were made in the first place. (I know because it says so on the box of the second pair i bought after i threw the first ones out because clogged :'() There is then also a slight chance that your carb already has the correct needles, although that is not granted, most people slap them on because they look good and dont go any further. Dirk
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I was going to mention the same thing, they look too shallow to me to get good air flow through and the filtering material, oh well, it will keep gravel out i guess :-/ :-/
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Did they sell you those as K&N's? (think) Even the flat ones are like the cones in Oli's, you can see the folded filtering material. They definitelly have no foam inside. Mines just bolted on and I ran the fuel line as before, using one of the bolts to secure the clamp through them. The only issue i had is that there is no connection for the crankcase ventilation So I had to drill them and install a hose end adaptor. I'll see if I have some pictures to upload.
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the finished product, note also the makeshift sprayboot we use to spray smaller items. Time for a [s]cuppa[/s] beer while the paint dries
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and on with the final coat the next day. No humans were hurt while filming this process, all stills are re-enacted without actually spraying. It is not only elf and savyy buffoons that know you have to wear a mask while working 2 pack. :o :o
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looking nice and shiny
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work in progress
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just before leaving Shaun was amendent that we should start coating the chassis, this way the paint has time to dry and fully harden before we start putting things back onto it. First we gave it one more full coat of Zinc Primer, inside and out. The inside was coated using an underseal gun with a 50 cm extention hose ( just dont kink it when spraying or it will back fire ;D ;D -->now shaun is Rust proof ;D ) Before applying the paint we got some more residue from the dipping process out, thats the dust you see on one of the pictures. On top of the zinc came another primer and then Satin black 2 pack paint.
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next I started sandblasting front suspension parts. Picture before and of the finished product zinc coated
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Back on the rig so got time now for a little update First the panel, I cut the shape roughly out of the old bootlid and went to work with a chisel like Jens suggested. I used a piece of cut off from the stable doors to make a mould with the router and went to work with hammer. The result is not bad but not that good neither. Issue was that i had open ended the "channel" so where they end the profile is not that clean / sharp as I would have liked. I might give it another try with a new mould.
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Nick_Moore wrote:That panel needs the thin, holey section cut out and replaced, I think. The floor near it also looks thin - have you tried shining a light up from underneath? I did that with my GT6, and the rust-free Californian body became somewhat less rust-free. Cue one new right hand floor pan. . The boot floor is OK, what look like spots are actually grinding dust. A bit of a dillema, new panels are not available, we have no facility to make the channels in a flat steel plate. Plate it over with a plain plate? looks a bit bodgery if anyone would inspect.... Time to invest in a roller and die set? Dirk
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4526 wrote:i hope when m spitfire is ready i can come over to see the mk2 and also shaun's mk3 !! ;) ;) & Keep up the good work ;D Wim, Always welcome, with or without the Spitfire.
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worse is how i have to explain to the missus how the new garage floor got stained ;D ;D Dirk
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And then disaster struck Shaun being a real English Gentleman and having no faith in us belgian serving correct tea, let alone that we should know how to brew some So for the 1500 cuppa he brings his own, Me having to supply only the milk and hot water.... but then he spilled his cuppa!!!!! following pictures are not suitable for the faith hearted or below 16 viewers....
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Althoug it seemed solid and Shaun already repaired part of the panel, some more holes appeared under the rear wing A picture of the holes and then on with the repair panel in place ready to be welded. It is hold by a strong magnet.
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Shaun in action