Saltddirk
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Everything posted by Saltddirk
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well no update for long, Shaun and I finally got some last remaining welding done ( he welds me [s]looks[/s] :) supervises) quite a few holes appeared and ho horror, with the sun low we noticed that the rear seat pan assembly, which kind off sits over the back axle had become wafer thin, with pinholes all along. Where the reinforcement plates were Shaun welded new inserts but what should we do with the remainder? the idea now is to cover it with filler. Any other ideas? Needless to say the panel is not longer available....
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2806 wrote:COOOOO that is impressive. So much easier than removing it all by hand! How much and where? Regards Bruce The stripping process was just short of 900 GBP while the painting added appx 1000 GBP to that. As far as I have been able to see there are only 2 companies doing this, SPL and Pro-strip. I choose Pro-strip as they were cheapest by quite a margin. Also their turn around time was better. From talking to the guys on the floor I also learned that their acid will pacify on contact with air, which means that the process stops after a while. So no risk of it sitting inside the chassis slowly eating away yr good steel. There is also a company in Holland doing similar, but they never replied to my queries so I'm not sure on what their proces does or not. I have seen a tread in the TR7 section of somebody who used them, ( Mr Beans? Green TR7 /8 ??? ) Re Bracing: Shaun doesnt take risks he! He also forbid me to remove it before the car is back on the Chassis, make sense... (and easy to handle) Dirk
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These have been taken after she was dipped in the acid bath and then rinsed and "pacified" Result: All the rust gone and a bare steel car. Most of the paint was burned off in a previous step when the car is heated and the flaking paint washed off with an HP washer. I was told that this is so the acid doesnt get contaminated too much and last a few cars longer Pure Automotive porn!
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These arrived in my mailbox today, Fresh out of her bath!
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Hi, Please keep us posted on the results, I have bought one months ago but still waiting to install it..... dirk
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The Hardtop did not survive the acid unscratched A view from the bonnet nose, from comparing with the Mk3 It would seem that the EU driver side is rolled under, the other side is still + - correct Not yet half way, a few more holes to patch and we can start rebuilding! Cheerz Dirk
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A few more holes have appeared, not too much though. Also some stress cracks in the floorboards
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All layed out on the drive
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She is Back! Peter Finch from Sterling motor transport brought her over for me, here she is, a trailer full of Spitty parts
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The 2000 has been "baked" and is awaiting the cleaning The Peugeot has been dipped and is being prepared for the painting. here's the "oven"
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got word back from Pro-strip today, the car is ready for collection, now only to pay the bill before collecting.... >:( here are a fedw pictures from delivery. The way it works is that they bake the car first in the "container" to get rid of most of the contamination, clean off the remainer with a HP cleaner and then dip it, it then gets again cleaned and pacified before sending to the paint shop
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Still a patchwork, when she comes back hopefully not too many holes have appeared, The nose still needs to be straightened, still debating which way to tackle. Anyhow, time ran out, the treatment slot was booked. Also the bootlid was worse than anticipated, so that will need a new one too.... dirk
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some fastening done
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It fitted perfectly, for those home restorers, 3 cases of jupiler is the correct height 8)
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Well Tomorrow is the big day Collected the Car from Shaun yesterday and loaded it on a trailer Tomorrow we're off to Pro-strip for a juvinating bath... Some Pictures Shaun had it all prepared on an Elf and Saffy-ty approved scaffolding ;D ;D Backed the trailer under it and secured
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just go for normal amber bulbs without that shiny coating. I have them in mine, work great. Normal flashers dont work with LED bulbs, not enough load, you need to buy a new one designed to be used with LEDS or add a ballast Dirk
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Talk me about it! One winter night in the docks in antwerp my friend and driver had a "wonder what happens if i pull the handbrake" moment. When we finally stopped pirouetting and sliding over the wet cobblestones the mini was about half a tyre width from tumbling into the river. I have ever so much respect now for whoever it was that drove a Mini B***s out in the Monte Carlo. Dirk
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Talk me about it! One winter night in the docks in antwerp my friend and driver had a "wonder what happens if i pull the handbrake" moment. When we finally stopped pirouetting and sliding over the wet cobblestones the mini was about half a tyre width from tumbling into the river. I have ever so much respect now for whoever it was that drove a Mini B***s out in the Monte Carlo. Dirk
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The lemans cars, more out of necessity because they used the longer webers, took the air from inside the wheel well. Have a look under the bonnet and try to imagine how the air has to travel to reach the carbs when you are traveling forward. Obviously you want to try getting the air from the front where it is helped by the car speed and you want as little obstructions as possible. A nice straight ducting will do. Turbulence eats up energy and thus slows down the air, with a result of less reaching the carbs. It is a bit like a low grade turbocharger really. Original air filters are also an obstruction, the air has to travel upwards first then sideways before it can enter the carbs, you can improve this by different filters and or ram pipes... Not easy but all little things help, Cheers Dirk
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Anthony, Whatever it is you are having, i'll have 2 kg please ;D ;D You have to get your 252CFM of uncompressed air to the engine, not easy if you take into account all the restrictions you have under the bonnet, Try to have a unrestricted even flow of laminated air without turbulences to the carbs would be your first priority. Dirk
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rhodes wrote: Did the same with my Mini, more or less. Not while driving it??? Been told that is easy too! ;D Dirk
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rhodes wrote: Did the same with my Mini, more or less. Not while driving it??? Been told that is easy too! ;D Dirk
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Seems to have turned into a pro-con discussion on wire wheels... :'( Lets give Smithy some support. My Mk2 has wires and if trued correctly they are no worse than steel wheels for daily use. I absolutelly love them, I actually replaced the original wires with a new set when I could not fine spokes to repair the old ones. Oh and I dont race my cars... If I would ever to be replacing them I would fancy a pair of replica Le Mans wheels, believe jigsaw did a batch. Lovely!!!! If I would ever to modify :B :B my spit it would be to mimic the Macau car But, the beauty is in the eye of the beholder, etc, as long as they are round they serve the purpose of making the car mobile and thus OK by me. Cheerz Dirk
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Just got mine back From Gower and Lee (solex B10 from a Renown) It looks absolutelly new. rebore and re-sleeved, new jets ... Bolted on and forget. They were in business before the war, found an ad in a Autocar magazine dated 1946! dont have the bill handy but it was not exactly cheap, although a big chunck of that was eaten up by insured courrier. They list standard prices on their website as a guidance Dirk
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Probably right. Will see to it Dirk