CP72
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Nick The car looks fantastic! Good luck with it! Christian
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Congratulations!!! All the best to you and your young family. Christian
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Great job, Ian! Very impressive work! :)
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When working on my Vitesse, I rebuilt the whole fuel system with 6mm copper tube, only to find out I should have used 8mm... :X
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Koni dampers and Superflex bushes may be expensive, but they are worth the money. Excellent choice, you will not regret it. Good luck with your rebuild!
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Morning folks, alright, I have been waiting for a good cause to buy one of those for a long time! I love buying tools. ;) Will report back once the checks have been made. Thanks. Christian
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Hmmm, no. 4 and no. 12 were definately not rotating. I am not sure which one was the third one. During the re-build of the rockershaft, I took all pushrods out, cleaned them and put them back in their original space. Some of them had formed a little 'pip'. I carefully ground this off (following a recommendation I had read some time ago). What will be the easiest (aka idiot-proof) way to measure the actual cam lift? Rockergear and pushrods out and then use some kind of dummy-pushrod? Thank you. Christian
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Hello, here is a follow-up regarding my engine problem with the Vitesse. On Saturday I took the car for a spin until it had fully warmed up, then let it idle with the rocker cover off. When running, 3 of 12 pushrods do not rotate at all! Does this mean the camshaft and/or the followers are damaged? ??) The noise is less when the engine is under load… Thank you. Christian
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John I cannot comment on using 123 ignition on a GT6, but I have worked on a friend's Spitfire with a 16curve 123 dizzy. It was not easy to find a suitable curve. The car is running okay now, however I am sure that the curve is not perfect. No doubt, it is a great product, but the tuneable one seems like a much better approach to me. My cars run aftermarket electronic ignitions on original dizzys. They have been very reliable so far. As the are cheap, I do always carry a spare set in the boot! ;) Christian
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Morning, thanks for your comments! - The distributor drive gear had been one of my initial suspects, too. The original did in fact have a loose central shaft, so I replaced it with a new one from Canley Classics. The teeth on the cam looked okay to me. - To eliminate the dizzy itself, I replaced it with a spare one. Endfloat was set according to the WS manual. On the week-end I will check: - Give it another listening session with a big screwdriver - Play around with valve gaps - Watch if all pushrods rotate when running Best regards Christian
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It is clearly audible. Have tried the screwdriver to ear method and the noise seems to come from the middle of the block. That does probably not say too much... :-/ Another thing to check would be the timing chain and tensioner.
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Hello folks, last year I put another used engine into my Triumph Vitesse. The engine had come out of an early GT6 MKIII, so is a flat-piston 2.0l. It had been sitting idle for some years. The engine has developed an unpleasant mechanical noise which I am trying to identify. Description - It is a sharp knocking/ticking noise - It is not influenced by engine temperature - Noise gets louder when you take the rocker cover off, so seems to come out of the engine itself, not from any ancillaries - Engine runs well otherwise, pulls well, doesn’t use much oil - Hot oil pressure is good (25psi at idle, 50psi at 2000rpm) I have done the following checks, without success: - Taken off the fan belt, that eliminates waterpump and alternator - Taken off the petrol pump – noise stays the same - Checked the crankshaft endfloat - okay - Checked the endfloat of the dizzy drive gear – okay - Noise does not change when clutch is pressed or not, it doesn’t change when a gear is selected or not - Replaced the rockershaft and refaced the rockers, adjusted the valves - Checked that the starter motor does not hit the flywheel Any other checks to carry out before I start taking the engine out? Thank you very much. Christian
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Hi folks. Thanks for a very friendly welcome and a great evening in Rolduc. And for all the nice comments about Ilka’s Spitfire! After another jump start at a filling station the car ran very well. It all gave us a good inspiration to participate in the next 10CR. Or even the RBRR. After an alternator conversion, that is... :) Best regards Christian & Ilka
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Phil, great write-up and excellent job on your car. This Spitfire will last, that is for sure! Christian
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Hello, the guy mentioned by Nick lives quite locally to me and I have met him once or twice on car shows. If someone wants to get in touch with him, I could arrange this. He builds all kind of car parts out of carbon fibre. A friend of mine's Spitfire 1500 is fitted with doors and bonnet from this guy. They fit well and are very light. No idea about prices, though. By the way, I do not have any personal interest in this, etc... Christian
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Hello, the guy mentioned by Nick lives quite locally to me and I have met him once or twice on car shows. If someone wants to get in touch with him, I could arrange this. He builds all kind of car parts out of carbon fibre. A friend of mine's Spitfire 1500 is fitted with doors and bonnet from this guy. They fit well and are very light. No idea about prices, though. By the way, I do not have any personal interest in this, etc... Christian
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And here is my Spit MKIII on Revs. Cheers Christian
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Another vote for a long unthreaded bolt - my Spitfire has been sporting one for the last ten or twelve years! 8)
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Hi, Andrew Turner had a very good advice here. This (and the pic) copied from his reply, apologies to him! *** Hi, check which float chamber you have fitted ( there is a number cast near the connecting boss ). The one nearest the radiator should read AUD2140 and the one nearest the bulkhead AUC1310. If you have these fitted it will solve your problem. *** Christian
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Hello, I do have a bad habit of buying carburettors just in case "I might need them one day". Over the years this has led to a shelf full of carbs and parts I will probably never use… While rummaging through them (and re-discovering things I had long forgotten), the following question came to my mind. The carbs of the SU HS series have an external float chamber bolted to the carb body. The faces clamped by the bolt are available in different shapes to maintain the angle required so that the float chamber is always in an upright position even on a canted engine. Stromberg carbs of the CD series are used in non-upright positions as well, for example in the Stag, but their float chamber is integrated into the carb body. How can the float chambers of Stromberg carbs be adjusted to a canted engine? Thank you very much. Best regards Christian
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"Red Polybush are very hard to install!" I can only second this! Took me a lot of time to fit them to a friend's spitfire... :o I have used Superflex on my cars and find them very good. One set was even transferred from one car to an other without problems. And they are much easier to install than Polybush.
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The Superflex parts no. is SPF1179. Over the last years I have used it to rebuild two Spitfire steering joints and it worked very well. Albeit buying a solid joint will probably be cheaper and easier! ;)
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Hi Nick, yes, the early Strombergs are quite nice carbs, I think. Always wondered why so many people swap them for SUs. The later “emission control” Strombergs are a different story, though. The fuel pump is the original one, so pressure should be okay. Correct needles… I have wondered about this myself. The situation is like this: • Engine is a worn-out MKII Vitesse unit, according to the PO fitted with a slightly “hotter” camshaft (he did not remember anything else about it). It has one of those scrappy 6-2-1 manifolds. • Carbs are CD150 (no number tags) which seem to originally have come of a MKI GT6 or Vitesse. MKII Vitesse should have CD150S which have different pistons, springs and needles. So it is hard to judge what needles would be correct. I have checked the jets and they do not look oval. If I do not get along with changing the needle valves and re-adjusting the floats, I will change the jets. Regards Christian
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Hello. Thank you very much for your hints. Especially the Burlen website is excellent. I have ordered needle valves and other small stuff and will give it a try. Christian
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Hello. My Vitesse MKII is fitted with twin Stromberg CD150 carbs. Normally a MKII should have CD150S carbs, but maybe this oddity is due to the car being a very early one!? The car runs too rich and I cannot get it any leaner. I suppose that I set to float level too high. When I worked on the carbs I found one float valve marked with 1.50 and one 1.75. As I only could get 1.75 I replaced them both with 1.75 valves. So my questions are: • What is the recommended float level for a Vitesse MKII? • What float valve size is correct for the MKII: 1.50 or 1.75? I suppose 1.50… • What effects can wrong sized float valves have? I suppose running rich… :) Thank you very much. Christian