Bradjones7105

Hi everyone, thakyou for all the feed back, so, I changed the oil, and put a new filter in, and cleaned the flat square gauze filter out, so far so good, been out today and it took about 30 seconds then kicked in which is a massive improvement! So hopefully my problem is solved! Thanks again

So basically, coming into the colder weather my overdrive is taking a while to kick in, one it does, it flicks on and off every time, I'd say that rules out the switch be faulty, my plan is to drain the oil and check the filter, and refill with new oil obviously, has anyone els experienced this?

Thanks for the replies, it had new wheel bearing last year and they where a good quality replace ment, iv just been under the car, grabing the uj where the prop bolts to the diff, there is some slight movement, so looks possibly its the quill shaft bearing?

I have a 2500s with manual OD, no drones or wines driving round town or cruising, but....when accelerating past 75mph there is a low drone noise, it don't think its a wine, its not high pitched, it's a low noted drone, as said, only appears about 75mph, now I don't know what an imbalanced prop sounds like or what a spent quill shaft bearing sound like? It dosnt come from a specific corner, It seems to just appear through the whole car, anyone had similar, all help appreciated, cheers

Window screen washers/squirters. I thought I'd cured the problem thinking it was the stalk playing up, basically they don't work and the fasten seat belt light dims when pressing the stalk in, after a few blips of the stalk they might work, disconnect the loom to stalk conector, and bridge the wires and the problem is still there, ruling out the stalk in my opinion, wire the pump to the batter and it works straight away, ruling the pump out, so the problem is somewhere between the pump and the loom/stalk connector, is there an earth behind the dash, if so where abouts, also to add, when turning overdrive off at high rmp, the indicator lights in the cluster give a dim flicker, could this be related??

Looking for a new sundym screen for my 1976 2500s, looking at chris witor but trying to find somewhere closer to the Midlands, any recommendations, cheers

I was hungry 😂 going to get the rad checked and wire an after market gauge up to it

My concern is that the gauge would rise higher than the 3/4 if I left it, I brought a temperature gun and took readings on the top hose and thermostat houseing, it does seem to correlate correctly with the gauge, I think I'll remove the rad and get it tested, just strange as it never did this befor the rebuild, I thought about an electric ran set up, but with the viscous fan, it's always spinning to keep the engine cooling, where as with electric fan i fear it could rise even faster as there will be no air drawn through the rad, until the actual fan kicks in

Has a viscous fan fitted, that seems to be working fine, it was fitted new about 2 years back, definitely spins on idle

Iv just built my 2500s up, done 1500 miles so far, tuned up properly on the rolling road and running great, while cruising it's sits from 1/4 to 1/2 depending how hot a day it is, but I can't go through McDonald's drive through on a hot day with it getting into the 3/4 mark, gets there in about 5 to 10 mins, I turn it off befor it goes higher, iv tried everything in the cooling system so far, only change to the engine is a tr6 ph2 cam shaft, nothing els has change, never did it befor the rebuild, rad is a fast flow upgrade that is about 3 years old, as said runs and drives great, but in traffic it get hot? Any ideas guys and gals

Morning all, looking good this is

  Hi guys, triumph 2500s 1976 having trouble with my brakes, basically on tick over if I push my brake pedal down it goes down almost all the way, but it I build the revs up it works as it should, also, when slowing down to brake, if I leave it in 4th O/D the pedal will travel right down, but pump up on the next press, alternatively if I drop it in to 3rd gear where the revs build, the pedal works fine, the brakes are all new all round, calipers and rear pistons, the master cylinder as been resealed, and iv tried 2 servos and its exactly the same, it's also got new servo valves and servo pipe, any one had similar???