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Thanks for the inspiration. I fixed my bouncing points on the solenoid by giving them a clean with a Dremel. Removing the lower screw was a pain as usual. I made a long bolt like yours, and refitting was a sinch! I used an M8 long hex head bolt I picked up from the nut and bolt rack in Ikea! Very satisfying fixing my overdrive for free! Cheers!
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Bet that's fun trying to re-assemble it through the same gap?
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Bought my elec ign from a guy called simon bbc(http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sadis=200&_sasl=simonbbc&LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&_fss=1&_sacat=0&_samihi=&_fpos=&_oexkw=&_fsradio=%26LH_SpecificSeller%3D1&_sop=12&_nkw=&_okw=&_ipg=50&_saslop=1&_samilow=&_udhi=&_ftrt=901&_sabdhi=&_ftrv=1&_udlo=&_sabdlo=&_adv=1&_dmd=1&_dmpt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&Make=Triumph&rt=nc) on the bay. Well worth the £20. I put a red rotor arm on from the distributor doctor as well. Simply essential, as the repro ones these days are just dreadful and will leave you stranded.
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I had a 4:11 in with a gt6 mk3 engine with o/d box. I now run 3.63, but tbh, could do with a 3.27. I'd go for a 3.63 and see how it pans out. You can always sell it on if it's too tall for a 1300.
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Mate, that was exactly how I started out 20 years ago. Enjoy it, the skills last forever - just helped a mate out by welding up his land rover defender door frames last week. Good luck, and keep working, eventually you will get the desired result!
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I'm sure it's fine, but are your flexible braided brakelines (on the front end) long enough? The wheels reach full lock with out placing strain on the pipes do they? (Just checking, for safety's sake...)