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rustbuckit2011

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  1. rustbuckit2011
    Ah well, That's not such bad news then, Thanks chaps! The only reason I ask, is that I am fitting vented discs and wider wheels to a mazda engined car. Vitesse suspension components are hens teeth here in NZ, and I didn't want to be pushing a spitfire stub beyond its capabilities. If they can cope with a six, they will be fine in my lightened car Cheers!
  2. rustbuckit2011
    Gday there! Just wondering, does anyone know if it is possible to machine 1360/spitfire hubs to accept vitesse  bearings and stub axle? And for that matter, is it fairly straight forward to machine a herald drum upright to take a vitesse stub? Thanks awfully,
  3. rustbuckit2011
    To be honest, if it aint broke, dont fix it! If it is leaking from either the stub axles or diff head then the gaskets are easy enough to change.  Other than that, new oil and a lick of paint should see it right. Of course,  if the thing is whiney or grumbling thats a different story...
  4. rustbuckit2011
    Yeah, like Jason points out, the prefix NM appears to be Honda. I'd be tempted to take it down to the local honda wreckers and see how close of a match you could get. It's just a hunch, but I would guess that less science and more "she'll be right" went into the decision to use that particular booster- so another the same size and mounting would probably work about the same. May be worth a try anyway
  5. rustbuckit2011
    Ah- I forgot to mention- If you want to fit these rims it may be necessary to change out your wheel studs to something a bit stronger. I don't know how well they fit with the standard studs. Landrover Freelander #CLP9037L are the ones you want. Very well documented on this site, try the search engine. And here-       http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/upgrade_spitfire_wheel_studs.html Really pretty easy to do and really, really worth it- even if just for peace of mind when using wide wheels. Standard Triumph studs are pretty pathetic.    ...Ask my girlfriend. :-/
  6. rustbuckit2011
    Mgf spare wheels will fit for your purposes. They are not a space saver, but rather a full size 14" steel. 5.5j, just like the late Gt6 rims, so fit straight on. Best of all, they are really, really cheap. Nobody wants them! They are black, but a bit of silver paint makes them look decent. Lugs can also be welded on to fit the herald hucap (with some effort) Also mg montego, maestro and metro came in 14" stee and alloys- But harder to find now than the Mgf's I don't know how to post photo's, but if you google mgf steel wheels they'll come up
  7. rustbuckit2011
    Thanks very much Mr Mace!
  8. rustbuckit2011
    G'day chaps, Would anyone be able to tell me please if the steering arms on early herald front drums and vitesse/gt6 discs are the same? As far as I can tell, the upright is identical. Cheers!
  9. rustbuckit2011
    Wow! Fantastic news! I did wonder what happened to this car, glad to see it's still kicking around. Have fun!
  10. rustbuckit2011
    Hi John, This link goes to the "other" website, but I have found the information invaluable. The original gearbox mounting plate is maintained, albeit upside  down, and a cortina/escort/sierra rubber mount used. I believe you can employ the use of an even tidier bit of kit from westfield cars or from a lotus seven's. Anyway, heres a couple of links I'm sure you'll love- http://www.tssc.org.uk/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=55&func=view&catid=218&id=62545 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kit-Car-Westfield-Vibra-Technics-Ford-Gearbox-Mount-142mm-bolt-Comp-FOR172MX-/370743949374
  11. rustbuckit2011
    Hi there, Just reading through this thread, I'm wondering why you need to get the engine started at all right now? To fix the bulkhead you are probably going to have to remove it from the chassis. To do this, you will first have to remove the rear tub. By this stage the doors would have come off too- so you may as well remove the bonnet. By now the earth strap should be right infront of you, you wont even have to search for it I'm guessing. Getting the engine started should be way down the list of priorities, because a) by the time you get the body finished it will have sat for such a time you may have to go through some work to start it again, and b) If you get to the end of the build and find its buggered, you shouldn't have any trouble picking up another engine. You could even drag it onto a table inside and work away on it at night! (my girlfriend loves it when I do this!) Do yourself a favour, don't get bogged down trying to make it run. That should be the easy bit. I think the priority should be to get the body and brakes up to a point where the sight of the car spurs you on to getting onto the road!
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