rustbuckit2011

Interested Jordan- if for nothing more than to play with! I have always been interested to see what can be squeezed ot of the 1147. I think for torque this would be quite interesting- and for a boosted application it would be a godsend- thinking about sc12 toyota superchargers again....

Try pouring a jug of boiling water on it - works for rear hubs. I used a heat gun on mine -it had however been empty since some time in the 80s. Possibly fill with water and then use heat on it- anyone done that?

Would anyone happen to know what the part number of that mk2 roto spring is? I have a couple of springs but cant work out whats what. Cheers,,

There is a chap in New Zealand selling new old stock short ones at the moment for a good price- $300 NZD / £168-  His name is Steve Douglas and he's contactable on the Triumph Herald International page on Facebook- I could probably come up with an email address if you dont do FB- Reckons he's got about 10 sets according to the ad Ive never bought repro ones but Id be wary of the chrome on anything modern- it all seems crap

Thanks Nick- Picked up a set of dolomite ones today- I havnt had a great look yet, but the the dolomite hubs appear thinner- the disc has more offset and the stub is a little different- Ill post more soon as to why this might be interesting...

Gday, Well, like the title says- Does anyone know if toledo hubs are the same as vitesse/gt6 type? Will they fit a vitesse stub? I know dolomite hubs (with the top hat discs) use a stub axle with the same bearing diameters but  the stub is shorter in length- but the toledo's with the disc mounted behind the hub- I am not sure. I have some spare vitesse uprights and I am hoping I can use toledo hubs to complete the set- Cheers

Hi Adrian, I am in a similar predicament regarding cert on a coupe- Could I ask where you getting those windows from? I am curious to know whether they can do tinted safety glass as well, Cheers, Arlo

Hi Adrian, I am in a similar predicament regarding cert on a coupe- Could I ask where you getting those windows from? I am curious to know whether they can do tinted safety glass as well, Cheers, Arlo

Great story that, John. Bloody impressed you typed it all out too!!

Yeah do it. Its easier to find and the same pump used on the 6 and apparently ford pintos. Should be ample for the 1300. Its a direct swap, no modification necessary. Having said that, I dont think there is anything wrong with the oe pump fitted to standard engines up to spitfire spec- they just require their tolerances checked and flat surfaces lapped.

Yeah do it. Its easier to find and the same pump used on the 6 and apparently ford pintos. Should be ample for the 1300. Its a direct swap, no modification necessary. Having said that, I dont think there is anything wrong with the oe pump fitted to standard engines up to spitfire spec- they just require their tolerances checked and flat surfaces lapped.

If you decide you are in the market for a high torque starter- do look out for a standard isuzu trooper 2.6 (or equivalent), 9 tooth one. The oe triumph spacer plate will need about a 1/4 inch milled off it (do measure first- don't take my word for it) and it will fit right up with a couple of basic wiring mods. I believe that is the motor they use on the high torque starter kits they sell. Should save you a couple of hundred if you get a good price. I did it years ago as I had a bad run with the lucas ones and got a bit fed up. A second hand isuzu starter didn't cost much from the wreckers and I just cant see it ever failing. It's powerful enough to move the car about

Hi Adrian, In regards to re-registration cof testing- I honestly wouldnt bother too much with originality. Being that there are so few vitesse with rotoflex going through the stations the staff literally have no idea what they are looking at. If it looks like its meant to be there it will do fine. We might spot the differences on triumph chassis' but to an untrained eye they all look the same. A number of years ago, I took in a herald to a vtnz in chch for a WOF. I wouldnt normally go to a vtnz, but I had only recently bought the car, and I figured if anyone would be unbiased  and find faults to rectify it would be a testing station as that is their specialty- they dont carry out the work so aren't looking to drum up cash. They put it up on the hoist, and from the comfort of the waiting room I could witness the ensuing confusion. Guys were being called over for opinions and lights were being shone into dark recesses. There was a worrying degree of very serious head shaking going on. A mechanic with a very worried expression came over and asked me to come look under the car as he didnt think he would be able to explain what the problem was. I stood looking up at the outwardly perfect underside of my pride and joy, preparing myself for the worst. He proceeded to point out that the sills were purely superficial and were screwed onto the car. He was adamant that somewhere along the line they had rusted away, and someone had thrown together some old steel shelving to hold it all together. It was a deathtrap he claimed. He couldn't believe the car had managed the journey into the station. He was actually quite pale. Well, not one person in the shop had ever seen a separate chassis before. I literally had to explain to them what it was, and what the WOF requirements surrounding the car were. And then show them the literature. And then show them pictures. I may have had to draw a diagram. I told them to take it down off the hoist and Ill never go back. Perhaps the worst part was that these were not young guys either. I was mid 20s at the time, they would have all been in their 30s/40s. Id do away with the lever arms. Even if you went to a cv joint axle Im quite sure you could throw a bit of road dirt at it and call it original. They really wont know any different- and the one guy who does- will know the dampers and cv's are better than new. In terms of originality and potential resale price- it wont affect it here in nz. Rotoflex is rotoflex. There are not enough cars sold with it here to be fussy about the details of originality of it. Now if it is a true convertible or not- that makes a difference!

I get the feeling you've never done it but the pi fuel filter could be adapted into a swirl pot.... I like the idea- Im not much into authenticity, but I do like mods to look factoryish, I mean, It'll never fool a triumph owner, but if it makes a mechanic scratch his head, Im into it. I'm quite fond of modern gadgetry stuffed into archaic packages. I'm even looking into a retractable spoiler and air dam for a herald. Ridiculous but true!

Thanks guys,, Mdvehicle, thankyou for thr kind offer. I'd love to swing by, alas that would be a bit of an expensive exercise as I'm in New Zealand and I'm guessing by the yellow registration plates in the background of your posts, that you are not! John I do plan to run injection via throttle bodies on an mx5 1.6 -  and my driving has never been described as sedate- so either a clever arrangement with a submersible fuel pump and a suitably sized tin can and I'll never pick up the last 2L of fuel or an external tank. A mkV golf has a very good surge tank incorporating a high pressure fuel pump and filter, so that may be the easiest route. It helps I've got it on the shelf.