Peter McEvedy
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Everything posted by Peter McEvedy
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The TSSC shop seems to sell standard stainless exhausts - unless I am reading the brochure incorrectly.
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Not a brilliant picture, and confess they are playing up a bit at present!! [Sorry, link no longer available]
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Although this is a TR6, this video shows how I do mine. Extra collection of poppers above your head. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IS2FhnWK6_o
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They are stainless steel. Thinking a front one for mine.
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9358 wrote:Where did you get the wood door cappings? they look amazing! Thank you - they came from Chapman & Cliff. They are burr elm to match the dashboard which came from the Sports Six Club shop in 1999. The cappings I added when I replaced the interior in 2012. I believe they were the firm who made the dash for the shop!
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I got mine from Park Lane - excellent in my view - fitted perfectly and done in the non standard colour I wanted.
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David made my car in 1999. The paintwork was superb and still is 15 years later. Just having the ignition fixed at present but otherwise a delight. I recovered the seats a year ago and Park Lane were fantastic and highly recommended. I used leather and found fitting it fairly easy. Still has the black carpet fitted by David which is good quality.
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GT6 MK 3 Suspension & Brakes Rebuild/Replace
Peter McEvedy replied to john2502's topic in Running Gear
I did this last year - I took the mounting brackets off the chassis as the bolt is supposed to go in with the head next to the column. I replaced the shims with stainless ones at that time. It also meant I could clean it all up at the same time! -
I did this - trunnionless, new hubs and stub axles and blue polybush. Fit together very well - first set of stub axles needed machining as supplied bearings didn't fit but only other issue was the hubs needing machining as I have ventilated discs and they were not a direct swap. The uprated studs are a good idea and not too expensive. Easy to do whilst you are there! Especially if you are putting wider wheels on. The bushes make the front end feel less wooly but not harsh. I had Konis but have Spax now as the ride height was too high with the Konis I had.
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Just finished fitting the new Canley Trunnionless uprights, uprated stub axles and hubs. Not completely simple as I have uprated brakes - vented discs with 16PB calipers with a spacer. This meant the hubs rubbed on the calipers and I needed to use the wider spacer medially rather than laterally. Had the hub machined - small garage in Morpeth run by a Vitesse owning owner! Seems to be fine though I think it has increased the track a little so my Supalite wheels are not quite fitting - they have the wrong offset so i will probably change them. I changed to blue polybush at the same time and refurbished the suspension. Using the old trunnions as paperweights!! :)
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Will do and will report back. There was a slight mix up as the axles were not originally sent and I wonder if I have the standard bearings.
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I should firstly point out that I am in no way an engineer so please excuse my complete lack of knowledge of anything mechanical! I am upgrading the front suspension on my GT6 convertible and have removed everything and am now putting things back on! I have managed to replace the wishbones and uprights and have fitted the trunnionless kit. I have also bought the uprated hubs and stub axles from Canley. I am putting the hubs back on but the new wheel bearings seem very tight on the new stub axle - the old hubs slid off relatively easily - these seem very resistant! The bearing are the new ones with integral seals - first stupid question -I take it that the rubber seals are supposed to be at the outside of the hubs - it would seem illogical to be any other way! What is the best way to get the hub back on? I have put the stub axle back onto the upright and torqued it to the correct amount. I have greased the bearings using LM grease relatively sparingly - I don't want to damage anything so advice would be most welcome! No doubt more silly questions will follow!
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It was professionally built for me - and it has to be said, exceptionally well - in 1999. I am sure there were reasons - I just hadn't measured it before!
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Still pulling my GT6 convertible front suspension apart - it has a late non rotoflex chassis - and have discovered it has a smaller antiroll bar than I expected. I think it is meant to have a 7/8" and the one fitted seems to be 5/8" though I imagine that it is a 1/2" one. Apart from having ordered the wrong bushes and clamps, should I change to a 7/8 or will this not make a lot of difference? I am changing to Poly blue bushes - one reason I did this was a slight knock I was getting from the drivers side over big bumps!
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I have a column switch from choice - easy to use with both hands on the wheel and allows me to have a lovely alloy knob on the gear lever!
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I have to agree - It took me ages to get mine exactly right - even a couple of degrees out would drive me crazy! :)
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smithy wrote:Jason - I'd like to see a side shot too, since mine's a Mountney (are you reading this btw peter? Mines a Mountney!!!) - and it fits just fine. I'll take comparison shots for you if/when. I'm getting old - it's my eyes!! 8) I have a flat Moto-lita 13" and am 6' 2" and have no problems with the old style cowl. The column stalks are all able to be reached easily without taking one's hand of the wheel, including the O/D stalk.
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That is great - I'll have another look at mine and see what I am going to do. I am obviously keeping my SU set up so I can revert when it all goes wrong! Will be getting it set up properly on a rolling road - probably need a bigger fuel tank though!
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Thinking of fitting some of these but what does one do with the heater valve as the original manifold will go? A picture of a set up would be most illuminating!
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correct steering wheel fo 76' spitfire 1500?
Peter McEvedy replied to molten's topic in Running Gear
I have a 13" Motolita - flat. I have a wooden rim which is very good looking but if I were to do this again, I would have a leather rim - a lot more comfortable for any distance. Just looked mine up in my bills file - £72! -
Mine is no longer standard as it has HS6 carbs fitted and the feed now comes from the fuel pump around the back of the engine to the rear carb first. I'll measure again!! :)
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From fuel pump to SU carbs. I think 8mm will be the answer.
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I want to change the fuel hoses on my GT6 - Having measured them, they seem to be between 6 and 8 mm internal bore! What is the definitive size? I also want to change the heater hoses and hoses from the rocker cover to SU carbs. Any ideas of official internal bores as mine all seem to measure differently!! Need changing as looking a bit cracked in places!! Searching the site suggests 6mm for the fuel line but last post in thread says these won't fit!!