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Ad2408

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  1. Do them one at a time so you can see how they should look when put back together!
  2. I've just replaced the spindles and throttle discs on my carbs - as per most people's advice the bodies didn't need rebushing as the spindles had worn not the bodies. All very easy and as someone said earlier do one at a time -it's made a world of difference to my car! Good luck :)
  3. I had one like that for wipers  ::) as others have said - you need to trace the wires back...
  4. Hello all After removing my door cards they are pretty warped (not flat) - I presume they have got a bit damp at some stage - has anyone had any luck straightening this kind of thing? Thanks Adam
  5. Hello all After removing my door cards they are pretty warped (not flat) - I presume they have got a bit damp at some stage - has anyone had any luck straightening this kind of thing? Thanks Adam
  6. Hi Are you doing the spindles and the butterfly valves (or are those only in the rebuild kits?)? 1300 or 1500? Either way looking forward to reading how it goes as it's on my list for this winter
  7. Thanks for the suggestions, was thinking silicon but wondered if this would be a paint to remove.... Also a strange question, my 1971 MKIV has chrome trim for the horseshoes and boot trims but black trims along the top of the rear wings, is this correct?
  8. Hi all Spitfire has just gone into paint today  :o To keep the costs down I stripped the car myself, while taking the trims off that run along the top of the rear wings and the horseshoes I noticed that the clips have caused rust To stop this in the future I am trying to think of other methods of attaching them... So how have you reattached yours? Thanks Adam
  9. Hi, that setup sounds pretty similar to the one on my '71 - apart from the lack of the ballast resistor (mine has one) As I understand it the resistor is there for helping during cold starts. I'm probably not the best person to ask about electronic ignitions though as I've just had to pop the points back in after wiring the electronic kit wrongly and (I think) cooking it  :( that was a h&h one and they were very helpful but I will probably go for one of the Accuspark ones on eBay next (don't know if I can face h&h after having do much help off them and then still cocking it up! But I mays they are only up the road from me) If you need any photos or have any specific questions etc let me know Adam
  10. Looking froward to reading more on this - A bit of inspiration  :)
  11. Hi Looking at doing the timing after fit the electronic ignition and I've noticed that I don't have the scale on the block to allow for setting the timing, I have a top dead centre mark though, is it a case of working out the measurements after measuring the crank pulley? Or does someone have a better idea? Thanks Adam
  12. Absolutely perfect, didn't think of YouTube - many thanks John!  :)
  13. Hello all Looking as we are having nice weather this weekend so fancy changing the car over to Electronic distribution, I picked up a kit at Stoneleigh last weekend so I'm all good to go... Apart from I just read the instructions and they aren't terribly clear (to me at least!) So any pointers or fool proof instructions would be great  :) From my understanding it should follow roughly this: 1. Remove plug leads and dizzy cap 2. Remove rotor arm 3. Remove points and condensor 4. Put heat 'stuff' onto bottom of new electronic unit 5. Put black ring onto shaft  ;D 6. Put rotor arm back on 7. Connect wiring to coil (happy with connections) Does this sound about right? Sorry if this seems like a stupid question but we've all asked them in the past! Do I need to disconnect the resistor by the coil? It's a 12v ballast coil btw Thanks Adam
  14. 7112 wrote:They come up on eBay from time to time at fairly reasonable prices. You will always pay for steel ones though.  I picked up a pair of decent fiberglass valances which look just as good on eBay for 99p and fiver postage.  Any particular reason you are after steel? They do rust relatively quickly in the position they sit. Hi, thanks for the reply - after steel as (again, I have been told) that fibreglass ones do not fit well? @ Brendan - good to hear the paddock ones are ok.
  15. Hi all Just getting the bits and bobs ready for when my car gets the front end paint hopefully this month and I was wondering the best place to get new steel front quarters from? Looked around and James Paddock seems to be the best price but are these panels any good? Did a search on here and someone had heard(!) that the steel front quarters don't fit well Don't want fibreglass ones. Any recommendations?
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