LouisW
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Everything posted by LouisW
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Got all the LHS rear chassis rust removed, primered and undersealed, removed the vertical link from the hub carrier... a pain in the arse when it's seized! Refitted new bearings, just the other side to go! Also got rebuild kits for my brake cylinders, bought new springs, got my brake back plate and a few other little parts sandblasted, primered and painted. I have also overhauled my driveshafts with primer and underseal fitting new ujs whilst at it. Struggled with removing the seized trunnion bolt but with a bit of fire i got it out eventually It's just the other side to go and general reassembly.
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Hi, I went to see someone on the facebook triumph spitfire group yesterday and got my hubs pulled, and a replacement drive shaft as one of the yokes was split on my old! I am going to get my hubs etc sandblasted, but will need to remove the bearings to do this. Is it possible to re-use the bearings etc? They only had 45k miles on them and turned like new! I am also wondering how to pull the driveshaft past the bearings, do i need a special tool? And finally... my seized trunnions, how do i go about removing that bolt? Thanks, Louis
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Well I've (hopefully) purchased enough new parts to finish off the car now! More updates next week!
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Good plan with the face mask, I have my welding mask I suppose I could use? Did a bit more today, rebuilt the leaf spring with new bolts, diy spacer tubes and new buttons which I made from moulded silicone. will see how well they work in the future! Also cleaned up the diff but still a bit greasy, will normal degrease sort this out? Anyone cleaned up their different in the past? Also vacced out the inside and applied filler to the outside .
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Well i've pulled the whole rear of the spit apart, and found that the yolk on one of the flanges on the driveshaft was cracked so this means a new driveshaft... yawn. Going to get the hubs split, check the bearings if OK as the oil catchers had rusted through and im worried water has gone. I have also dropped the diff which has been wire brushed but still has surface rust. I think the I will replace the front seal on the diff as it's leaking (presumably from this). The oil which came out of it was like honey, and black so will also be replaced! It's not looking too good under the spit though, dont fancy going under there too much with a grinder though on my back... Advice? I also split the rear leaf spring apart and started painting it. White, as that's all i had at hand! Oh well, wont be visible once in so that doesn't matter Just need to replace the spacer tubes, bolts and buttons between the leaves. Not much else going on really as i've been at university. Hope to progress some more over the next few days, but wont be doing anything more for another couple of months unfortunately. Cheers Louis
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Been removing the ujs from the rear driveshaft flanges but noticed that the cup which holds the uj which is connected to the driveshaft is cracked. Am I right in thinking I need a whole new driveshaft? Do you think that I could weld it instead as I really can't afford a new driveshaft...
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I'm thinking of bringing these radio plates back after they did pretty well last time, how many people would be interested if i was to do so? They would just be plain black acrylic.
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michael_charlton wrote:I got a guy to make me an exact copy of the `proper` puller for £15.00 Did you have the 'proper puller' to show to this guy who made you the replica or gget dimensions from somewhere?
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Righto' making a start on removing the rear suspension. I am only at home until sunday so won't be able to get that far along but i can atleast get somewhere. I have made an order list and was wondering if you guys could say whether this is all the right stuff and enough for the rear suspension overhaul? I am also wondering how to remove the bolts from the drive flange? Do I have to get right under the car as it's quite difficult to reach from just under the arch.
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Right, bit of a bummer of a day today to be honest. I crawled under the car today properly for once with a torch and have seen the full extent of rust. Fortunately there doesn't seem to be any structural rust underneath, just surface however it's ALL over the rear suspension, chassis, everything. I also noticed that the diff is moist at the bottom, so leaking some oil? It's put me down really seeing how bad it is under there and i dont know how to progress from here if i'm honest. Any help would be great. It would be best if i took the body off but i just dont have the space to do this. Pics:
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Yeah its a little too low in that Photoshop, was just a play around really on the ride height. The main thing is colour which I'm focused on.
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Not updated in a while as im away for uni and only get back at term times. Here's a quick photoshop of the look im hoping to go towards with the spitfire. Unsure on the black wheels but i quite like the colour and the stance.
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Well since I last updated I have welded in the rear radius arm bracket and cleaned up the radius arm itself putting in new bolts(Bushes looked fine). I also today welded up the hole near the rotoflex radius arm fitting on the body. I painted it all black today, and then put underseal on the underside. It doesn't look pretty but I just want to make sure it doesn't rust again. You wont see this anyway under the carpet so not to worry. I have oiled my trunnions at the front, and checked my wheel bearings and everything seems to be OK. Looks better than it was before, I'm very happy with this! I started painting the bonnet too and it's looking more like a car again. I am really happy with the fitment of the bonnet, aswell as the fitment of my valances which I tested today! Those valances are fibreglass aswell and cost me 99p on the Bay Also test fitted my bonnet latches which I'm happy to say also fit well. I also welded up the sheet metal inner of the rear quarters from inside the boot as when I did it, it hadn't been very strong as i'd struggled with the leaning over welding and lack of light. I proceeded to then put tetra schutz on the areas where I have welded (front bulkhead, rear radius arm, boot, inner sills) will this be OK? I had zinc primed first but I felt this just completely sealed any pinholes etc which existed. Was I wrong to do this?It's put my mind at ease really as it's one less thing to worry about and looks much better.
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I'll take a picture tomorrow showing the position and await the verdict. It's all definitely straight. The tightness s I said came from the seal getting tight between the top of the vertical link thread and the top of the trunnion.
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Will do! Is it right that when 180 degrees from fully tightened the seal seems to be "compressed" of sorts when turned right? I could clearly feel it was tighter one way when turned but once all the disk, hub etc was on it was barely noticeable either way.
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Alright, so i'm best to take them out and tighten up? The only thing I noticed was when they were 180 is that when turned right (on the drivers side trunnion) it got tight as it started compress against the actual dust seal above? I suppose this will just compress and wont be an issue?
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Sorry to be making lots of threads. Basically I just put my trunnions back onto the vertical links and tightened them up all the way. I then backed off 180 degrees but this still felt "hard" when turning in one direction, so i span them round again and this seemed much better. The dust seal isn't right at the top of the vertical link thread, there is about a 1cm gap but this obviously changes when the wheel is turned and the trunnion either loosens or tightens. Does this sound okay? I dont want to get it wrong and have any issues. Both are the same as they are, and they're on plenty of thread. Will be oiling them up tomorrow. Louis.
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I've finally got her back on four wheels after rebuilding the suspension on the drivers side. It's nice to have her back like this! Gives me more motivation to keep moving forward but i'm going to uni next week so wont get any chance to play again until Christmas. 🙁 I have also made a start on the rust at the rear radius arm bracket. Need to plug weld this part in to the boxed section behind.
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I had tightened the top balljoint after this picture was taken! Needed the threads on the balljoint cleaning with a wire brush. I'll be sure to pop the wheel on and feel for play. Richard - I did add a crease into the sill end plate on the second one I made and it took a lot less longer to do. It still needs tidying up as its a bit messy with my welds but its strong. I'm happy to have made them myself as every little helps! Thanks again for all the comments. Louis.
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Well I finally rebuild the front suspension on the passenger side with new bushes, bolts, refurbed calipers, new hoses and grease caps. Was I right in hand tightening the castle nut and then backing off a little bit? No wobble from bearings etc thankfully. I did notice however that the when I turn the hub, the disk rubs on the pads inside the caliper? I can manually "move" the pads off with my fingers. There is no brake fluid or anything in the system as I've only just put it back together. Is my TRE correct too? The seal seems a bit "squashed" to this side? Guess it will change when steered? My tracking is way out as well with the wheel straight inside the car too.
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8730 wrote:Latest box of goodies arrived from Canley Classics this week.. :) Bit depressing how small a box £500 odd adds up to.. :-/ Couple of questions.. Rebuilding my callipers with stainless pistons. Do I need to use any kind of grease when inserting? Or do they go in with just a smear of brake fluid on them. Also... On the front stub axle, item 138559 (water shield) is no longer available anywhere. Is there something else that can be used, or have people just done without..? And... Done away with the rotoflex, & treated myself to a cv conversion kit :). Having real trouble finding the spacers for setting the end float. Any ideas..? Probably many more questions once I start assembling, but that's all I can think of at the moment.. Many thanks. You can use the red rubber grease on the pistons and on the seals etc, however when I fitted mine I just soaked my seals in brake fluid and smeared by pistons in brake fluid. Also found this in regards to the water shield. Looks to be unavailable since 2011, maybe longer! http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1323196622/ Try giving spitfire graveyard a call?
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I'll try that then thanks! I'll get back to you if it doesn't work out. And Hazen; I'll have to have a look around for some bolt places near me. Should be some in York I would have though, B&Q is usually no good.
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Welded in a sill plate onto the other side of the car now. I also started the rebuild on my front suspension but unfortunately no pics! I'll get some tomorrow.
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I am rebuilding my front suspension but have come into a few issues. Basically I bought a suspension bolt kit from paddocks a while back and have only opened it now. What I have noticed however is there doesn't seem to be enough bolts for all the different parts. Has anyone ever purchased this kit in the past and found it doesn't have the correct bolts for all the areas? I presume it's supposed to cover the wishbone mounts, lower shock and trunnion bolts, upper bolts for shock, Balljoint nut and bolts. What else should it cover if anything? I was also having problems with the balljoint into the vertical link as when I tried tightening the nut it just span? Do i need the wheel on and some "weight" in order to allow it to stay in place? Wim recommended hitting it in with a mallet? Thanks, Louis
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Some sort of towing tool?