LouisW
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Everything posted by LouisW
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I currently have two gauge plates (2 x 52mm holes perfect for smiths gauges) in plain black gloss acrylic 3mm left which I need gone really. Pm if interested, £10 each which is cheaper than butchering up the original plate and also cheaper than the generic ones on eBay. Fits perfect into your H tower as well. Louis.
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Cheers Bainzy! Nice to know someones reading my thread Finished off the repair section on the front a post this morning and ground back the bulkhead repair. Will just need some filler to bring it all level but it's strong enough for me! Pictures of the welded in plate. What I did find however was another hole further along the a post which required more outer sill to be cut away. Just needs a plate putting in as I''ve removed all the rust around it. This is what I have to tackle next after this side... FUNFUNFUN Oh the joys of previous bodged repairs with filler
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Righto, got a fair bit done since my last update. First, after seeking advice from another thread on the forum I had a go at repairing the rust on the boot (had been seeking a new one to no avail, glad I didn't find one now!) Got it painted up and the boot remounted onto the spitfire which was nice to do! Only needed a bit of filler and then I gave it another couple of coats to get a nice smooth finish. (At the end I will be applying high build all over the zinc phosphate. I'm getting a fairly good finish with the zinc on it's own but obviously there are minor imperfections I hope to sort out later). Next up, after fashioning up an inner boot repair panel I could finally install my rear quarter panel panel from rimmers. Had a bit of struggle with fitment etc but got it all welded up solid (First time using plug welds) on the lower flange after incorrectly doing seam welds and having it weak when grinding away!. I know better for the future now. 😀 All a big learning curve for me. Incorrect lower welding in this pic. Still some works need doing on this bit with some filler but it's better than a big hole First real patch i've done on the car! Today I went head first into another project, the A post! Cut out the sill and found this instead of a b post... Rust! Cut it out... Treated the rust and sprayed some zinc phosphate into the sill. I'll shove some waxoil in later on so it doesn't have to look good, just be effective This is the only real bit of rust under the sill thankfully. Next pictures are quite bad as I only just took the pictures, but basically I made up a small steel panel for the body mounting for strength as the old was knackered. Will also need to make a bigger patch for the rest of the hole, but once I've done that I can weld it all back up and get on with re-assembling the suspension. Also welded up the front bulkhead panel properly now (filling in the top gap). Another question however... I had bought all new ARB parts and links. I fitted the links a few weeks ago whilst re-attaching the ARB however after looking today the new links have some rust on already! Should I give the links a lick of paint? They're already black from when I got them but mustn't be protective enough. Cheers, Louis
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I've spoken to Rich in a pm and he's stated that I can have this exhaust. One problem however... We are quite far away from one another and delivery of such a large item is difficult. I was wondering if anyone ever travelled staffordshire way to york where I am? There's no rush for this on my end but would really appreciate it if someone was able to transport it one time. If no-one is able to feel free to give it away to someone else Rich. Thanks a lot and hope someones able to help, Regards, Louis.
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Copper slip is often put behind the pads to stop them from squealing (you probably already know this) but the strip is something new i've not seen before. All i can think of is a PO has put the material there to try and stop squealing in the pads or it could have been just the paper back on the pads which stated the manufacturer etc. Without pics I don't really know. Nothing you need to worry about if getting new pads though, just fit either with antisqueal shims or some copper slip.
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Have you removed the little split pin and checked the pedal mechanism itself? Isn't much to it mind but there is a little spring that may be catching on something? Worth a check in case it's a cheap fix! Personally I would get the fluid from your MC and then take it off the car (watch out you dont get fluid on your bulkhead) and bench check your MC. If this is what is sticking you can take it apart and lightly sand the piston and bore as a bit of rust may be causing your issues. This may not fix it but for the time it takes it's worth trying it. If not I think a new MC is a sensible decision. Just check all other possibilities before buying one.
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It could be your master cylinder. Pull your boot off the master cylinder and disconnect the little split pin joining the arm from the MC to the clutch pedal. Then whilst separated move the MC arm out of the way or undo the MC bolts and move out of the way (can leave clutch line attached) then push the clutch pedal and see if you have the same problem. If you do feel it sticking then it isn't the MC, if it doesn't stick then it's the MC.
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I currently have a single din radio plate and two gauge plates (space for 2 smiths gauges/ gauges of 52mm mounting) for the spit 1500, mkiv and gt6 mk3. PM if interested, both in plain black gloss acrylic of 3mm.
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It's the throttle cable I believe.
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The best way to initially go about this would to get yourself a grinder and put a wire cup attachment onto it. If you can grind away all the visible surface rust you see and get it back to bare metal it gives you a better chance of seeing what you have to deal with. To post more pictures you can always use photobucket or imgur and upload your images over on to those sites. Then from there get the "IMG" url tag and copy and paste that onto the forum for each picture you wish to add.
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Nothing beats doing it yourself though Brendan.
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For me, the fibreglass ones look as good as the steel. It's just the prep thats required is slightly higher to make them look steel when painted. Ive tested the fitment of mine and they're spot on really! Again, your decision but the price played a large part in the choice aswell as them not rotting.. one less thing to worry about. Iain, I emailed you back by the way!
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They come up on eBay from time to time at fairly reasonable prices. You will always pay for steel ones though. I picked up a pair of decent fiberglass valances which look just as good on eBay for 99p and fiver postage. Any particular reason you are after steel? They do rust relatively quickly in the position they sit.
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That's it! It's a U shaped bracket isn't it! I recall this dropping down into the door before and thinking to myself "atleast it wont get lost there" ;D Thanks alot, I'll dig that out tomorrow. Can't believe I forgot about that. Cheers brendan. Louis.
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Long story short, I removed the outer door handles a while ago and prepped and primed the doors adding new gaskets but cannot for the life of me remember how the handles stayed secured in the door. They're plumbed in and work just if I pull on them the whole assembly nearly comes out of the door. I know there are two nuts inside that I remember loosening but don't know how they go to secure it in the door. Thanks, Louis.
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Here's the spit from behind as it is at the moment! Been doing some welding as seen in my other thread.
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Making another batch of radio plates up out of acrylic next week, if anyone is interested shoot me a pm!
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I emailed paddocks so hopefully they can sort me out. I'm just worried if I leave the plastic bush that's got a hairline crack that it may get much worse.
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Got round to fitting my trunnion bushes today and have some questions. When fitting the first bushes the plastic bush went in fine and the metal tube was tight but not overly so. The second however I noticed a hairline crack on the bush and the bushes wouldn't fit without a vice and the metal tubes were also incredibly tight. I've heard that the metal sleeve should rotate? I doubt it will in the second, might not in the first!
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Thanks Mike, The gaiters are the original ones and were pretty packed with grease when I removed them. They dont rub or, when on full lock, bulge with the amount of grease in them so fingers crossed they'll be alright. I've put a couple of proper clamps onto the steering gaiters now so it doesn't move about like it did with the zip ties. It was also the messiest job i've ever had on the spit so far, was covered with grease!
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Just ordered a 1/8 bsp grease nipple which will hopefully fit. Still got the same questions in regards to pumping new grease in. And another, will the grease I put in the gaitors be enough already without further adding with a grease nipple?
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Some good info on it here, but I'm sure you could get it cheaper elsewhere! http://www.rust.co.uk/products/category/28117/epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/
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Inner wheelarches, front or back? If front I'd recommend removing the bonnet and using a flap wheel or wire wheel on a grinder to remove the rust then coating with some zinc/ etch primer then overcoating with some stonechip then black epoxy mastic. Would do the same on the back with the difference of not having to remove the bonnet but instead removing the rear wheel and covering the axle etc with a sheet. You could even waxoyl it but not really needed if doing the above. You could just do zinc primer, top coat then stonechip/ epoxy mastic. Upto you depending on how long you want it to last! Good luck, Louis.
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Here's some pics:
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Last week I cleaned my steering rack of grease and the steering rack gaiters of grease. I removed the rust and painted the centre section and the threaded rods for the TRE's. Today I filled the gaitors with grease ( is it possible to overfill? I put quite a lot in one of them) then slid them onto the steering rack. However after ordering a 1/4 BSP grease nipple and getting it today to find it didn't fit I havn't been able to actually put new grease into the main body of the steering rack. What I'm wondering is, what size is the grease nipple I need and when I do go putting new grease into the steering rack will I need to pull back the steering gaiter to clean up the old grease as it's pumped out? Any helps appreciated, Regards, Louis.