byakk0
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Everything posted by byakk0
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that is probably the best Idea I have heard of to get it well centered. I had to think about it and read your post a few times to picture what you meant. Thanks! 😎
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That's another option too Shawn, but what I was meaning was to build the rotisserie on top of a rolling chassis. The tub rotates above the chassis. This isn't exactly what I mean, but the photo angle makes it look like it; in a way--just ignore the that the tub is on the other side of that chassis and imagine it is above the chassis. But, who knows...My brain is just working overtime. Probably more trouble than it is worth.
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yes, my worry exactly...I think I saw something once of someone doing that exact thing, but it was more of a lift than a rotisserie. Eh...Just me wondering and thinking things through before I actually do anything.
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is it intermittent or a constant charge? Wire up a test light in line where the wire connections are before they run up into the column, and set the light were you can see it. When you get a zap and the light goes on, you know you have the bad wire.
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is there an advantage to spring steel over regular for slappers?
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yes, I am taking cues from his, as well as a few others. I have 2 engine stands to play with. Now I just need to source some metal--not a problem, just need to get out and get it. however, one option I am considering is building the rotisserie to mount right onto the rolling chassis, so I can spin the body above the chassis, and store them in the same place without having to push one or the other outside for a month or two. But, the problem I see with this is 1)messing up my nice new chassis with crud and welding slag, and 2)it may get in the way of me moving around easily.
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Eesh. Much slower going at this stage of the rebuild than I was hoping for. I have my drivers side axle and a couple spares at a friend's shop so he can pull the hubs for me. Then I can get things back on track. I'm itching to get the chassis buttoned up and back to the tub. I plan on a rotisserie for the next stage of the game.
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Por-15. Its a nice self-leveling anti-rust paint. Just brush on with a foam brush. You can thin it a little and spray it, but I don't have the equipment.
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cleaned up and painted the drive shaft and the other vertical link.
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You're paying to have some teach you to hit a little white ball? lol! (Driving a car, I know 😀 ) Anyway, Do you have any photos of the two areas in question? I think I know where you are talking about but just to be sure...
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I just used a piece of 3/16" steel stock for mine, although spring steel would probably be better
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Coming right along. if you can live with the bondo inside the driver's sill it may be ok if you can get rid of the rust in there. That said, if the endplate was only held on with 3 bits of weld, you may consider removing the entire sill and replacing with a new one- it does look like a bit of a bodge, if only a small one. The sills are part of the body's structural integrity, and you don't want a potential problem left there. Also, you have a crazy gap between the bonnet and the door. Should only be around 1/4" or less. But it looks like the gap between bonnet and cowl there in front of the windscreen frame is a bit wide in places too. Could be just a matter of reshaping the narrow parts and adjusting it backwards far enough to close the gaps. Did you get the bit about why it is sitting on the radiator sorted?
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Well, I got the refurbished spring installed today...finally. I also started trying to remove the rear driver's side hub...and promptly bent it. Good thing I have spares. So, I guess It is off to find a friend with an impact wrench.
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Here is the rest of my photos in this series. Perhaps they may help? Granted, that strip on the underside needs to be removed to effectively do this. I had a flat bar clamped to the inside, and it brought the low spot out and made it workable. Without the stress relief cuts I couldn't have gotten it to flatten out. Of course, I ground the welded part as flat as possible. Being on the underside, probably no one will ever even notice. My nose was turned down too, by about 1 inch. I had to raise the center that entire amount to get the grill to fit. A lot of working and I finally managed to bring it up without distorting to topside at all.
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nice work. Keep tapping away. The nose is tough to reshape. Did nearly the same thing on my GT6. I had to make a slice on the underside to relieve some of the stress and bring the metal down. I actually removed the strip under the nose and made a new one. Easier to hide mistakes on the GT6 though, as the grille is in the front.
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Wondering how things are progressing...been 7 months and we're dying here! :o lol.
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Yep. Time...time...time...Never enough. The new baby certainly keeps me busy! Glad I am able to build some of the needed items. It may seem like one step forward and two back at times, but at least I can build something on the spot instead of having to wait weeks for an expensive replacement part. She's up to 10 pounds and worth every minute.
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And...I did not get a chance to touch the hubs. So much for that idea this week!
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Still need to check the stud clearances.... Anyway, here goes another round of updates for you. Got the bushings on the radius arms and the leaf spring finally swapped. Had a visit with a friend who owns a hydraulic press. Smacking those with a hammer just doesn't do a lot. Also, When I tore apart the spring for refurbishing I found some goofy straps holding the spring together. They were made of thin metal, probably 22 gauge or thereabouts, and I had to bend a tab on each side straight to release them. Most clamps I've seen are about 3/16" thick and have a bolt and spacer across the bottom. Add to that, there were only 3 straps on mine instead of 4. You know how metal is when you start bending it, and I was worried if I re-used the clamps, the bending the tabs back would fatigue the metal enough to cause failure at some point in the future, so I did not want to do that. My only other option was replacing the straps, which I have not seen on any parts lists or break-down diagrams, so I would have to make my own. But, the good news is I have a few other sets of leaf springs, so I took the the two leaves from another that has the proper clamps. Thursday I reassembled the spring...or at least I tried to. I discovered the clamps I added were too short, partly because I put in new spacers, but also because I failed to count the number of leaves on the donor spring and the one I was using. My spring has 10, the donor only had 8 ( I think--still haven't counted that one). So...the problem at hand was dealing with short clamps, and the question: Extend the clamps or build new ones? I could have sliced the clamps and added a new piece of metal, or just add a piece and drill a new hole, but I realized that would be probably more labor intensive than build new ones entirely. I did have strips of 3/16" steel, after all. So, after a bit of cutting and drilling, I was able to fashion some new clamps. I used stainless steel bolts and nuts to finish them off. One bent and one in progress All 4 completed I ground the rivet head off of the clamps to remove them from the spring, and ground the remaining post smaller to fit through the hole I drilled in the top of the new clamps, then welded them in place and finished the weld off to give the appearance of a rivet head. All together. (sorry they are blurry. I'll get some better ones. I shot these at night with my tablet, using the headlights of my car for light) I still have to get it installed, but I am further along at least!
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I don't think my new studs are hitting anything but I will have a look. Thanks for the heads up. As for the brake cable, I plan on getting that ran before remating the tub-along with the fuel and brake lines. I've made plenty of mistakes other folks, including myself, can learn from, so I know what you mean! Additionally, I read a lot of rebuilds and pick up on other folks mistakes best avoided too. With any luck I can get the hubs swapped this week on the drivers side, perhaps even get it all rebuilt, painted, and installed--but I think that is asking a lot of myself right now. (well, actually that is hoping the missus will allow me sufficient playtime in the garage )
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here's one, it is a GT6 though, but you get the idea. Quick google image search yielded many results.
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Mention where you are located. Perhaps someone knows a good triumph mechanic in your area, or at least a local club you could seek the advice of.
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do you have the time, tools, and/or know-how to do the work yourself? How is your supply of money and desire to learn? Don't forget about space. Doing the work yourself is rewarding, IMHO, but is time consuming. I started my resto with none of the above aside from desire. I have since bought a lot of tools and learned how to weld and some panel beating as well. Just take it slow and practice off the car. Read lots of rebuild websites for Spitfires and GT6's and you will get a good idea of what you need to do. The trade-off for having someone else do it for it time. It may cost a lot, but a good shop can get you the body back in a timely manner. (as opposed to the 18+ years I've spent doing it myself, little time, little money, lots of learning curve). But, don't let my lengthy resto scare you. Some folks around here have knocked out an excellent garage resto in as little as a year. Obviously, the more time and money you have to throw at it, the quicker you will be able to get the car completed. Before: (about 1995) Current Sorry , link no longer available <--my resto Sorry , link no longer available <-- a fine exampe of a 1 year-resto
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Okay, update time...it's been a few weeks and everyone's been wondering. Not a lot has happened, really. Been unable to get more than just a few seconds here or there to do any sort of work. Got the passenger side rear axle refurbished and reassembled with all new brake parts. I opted not to do the wheel bearings at this time as I will assess their true nature later. As folks on the triumph experience have informed me, why pull the hub apart if it is not necessary? Well, at this point if I can put something off till alter, I will if that gets me closer to a completed car. I'm going to have to swap hub on the driver's side, however, as the hub holes for the studs are nearly 1000th of inch too large. Front side axle is completed as well, with the replacement trunnion it was a snap. I was shipped two left side trunnions in the front-end kit I bought some time ago. New rotor and bearings too. The caliper needs rebuilt, and I need new hoses, but those will have to come later, as budget allows. At least they are not critical components at this stage in the game. Still need to get the old bushings pressed out of the leaf spring and radius arms and swapped for the new ones-I don't dare use the old as the rubber is half separated. Connecting with my friend who has a press has proven to be difficult. (ignore the leaf spring-I know its missing 2 leafs-its a temporary spring while I get the other one ready) All in all it's slowly starting to come together for me. Once I get the drivers side rear axle rebuilt I can run the new tubing and brake cable (new too) and get the tub set back down on the chassis.
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Okay, update time...it's been a few weeks and everyone's been wondering. Not a lot has happened, really. Been unable to get more than just a few seconds here or there to do any sort of work. Got the passenger side rear axle refurbished and reassembled with all new brake parts. I opted not to do the wheel bearings at this time as I will assess their true nature later. As folks on the triumph experience have informed me, why pull the hub apart if it is not necessary? Well, at this point if I can put something off till alter, I will if that gets me closer to a completed car. I'm going to have to swap hub on the driver's side, however, as the hub holes for the studs are nearly 1000th of inch too large. Front side axle is completed as well, got the replacement trunnion from Good ol Albert at the Roadster Factory this week. I was shipped two left side trunnions in the front-end kit I bought some time ago. Still need to get the old bushings pressed out of the leaf spring and radius arms and swapped for the new ones-I don't dare use the old as the rubber is half separated. Connecting with my friend who has a press has proven to be difficult. (ignore the leaf spring-I know its missing 2 leafs-its a temporary spring while I get the other one ready) All in all it's slowly starting to come together for me. Once I get the drivers side rear axle rebuilt I can run the new tubing and brake cable (new too) and get the tub set back down on the chassis.
