byakk0
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Everything posted by byakk0
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Got the driveline and the swaybar mounted today. I wanted to start it too but ran into troubles. Before I dropped the engine on the chassis I had a control board set up with the voltage regulator , starter solenoid, ignition switch, and tachometer so I could run the engine off the car. Unfortunately I did not make a diagram of how I had it set up and when my son helped me take it off of the cart he disconnected a few wires. I need to research where they go now as the wiring was not coded like a wiring diagram and I can't find my notes. I didn't tag the individual wires either. Needless to say, I didn't get it started today. I did discover, with the help of my son, that water pump was leaking badly, so I swapped the impeller with one of my good spares. At least I got that changed before it was critical. Sorry,. no pics today.
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oohhh, shiny! (think) I like that idea-much easier than mine. You could even do that with regular pliers
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ferny wrote:Are circlip pliers not strong enough? That's what I was thinking. But it would depend on the quality of the pliers too. I have a couple pair of really cheap ones that aren't good for much, and a pair that are pretty good. You could make a tool out of a piece of 1" x 1/16" steel, if you are so inclined. Would't take much more than some heat and a hammer (to make a 90 degree bend), a vice, and a grinder.
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definite diamond in the rough. Before you tackle the floors and sills, be sure to brace the doors and put the tub securely back on the chassis, in order to keep everything lined up correctly. Good luck and keep us posted. I look forward to your progress.
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you've got a good gap in that first picture. Everything should be ok at this point, one would think. as for the lower leading edge of your door, it almost looks bent outward. How does the door look if you hold a long straight edge horizontally against it down there? What about the contour vertically? Is it similar to the leading edge as the trailing edge? If you need to elongate your holes for additional adjustment I don't think it is the end of the world. I had to do that on one side. To see if it was going to work, I only elongated one in each hinge first, mainly just so I didn't end up going to the extra effort and it not being the solution.
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you've got a good gap in that first picture. Everything should be ok at this point, one would think. as for the lower leading edge of your door, it almost looks bent outward. How does the door look if you hold a long straight edge horizontally against it down there? What about the contour vertically? Is it similar to the leading edge as the trailing edge? If you need to elongate your holes for additional adjustment I don't think it is the end of the world. I had to do that on one side. To see if it was going to work, I only elongated one in each hinge first, mainly just so I didn't end up going to the extra effort and it not being the solution.
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Yep. And since this won't be concourse, nearly no-one will notice. Although, I've got another block, transmission, and a D type OD. Down the road I plan on rebuilding these and fitting them. After all, I have the O in my commission number. May as well make it OD sometime.
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Well, I did it. I got the engine in place. That's my boy steering as it is now too heavy to steer by turning the wheels. Sometime in the past, before I owned the car, the mounting holes in the transmission tailpiece had broken off on both sides, thus preventing the use of the standard transmission mount. Instead, someone fabricated a clamp-style mount. It is secured at the bottom to the transmission mounting plate via a rubber mount (not pictured, sorry) However, as you can see the edges are very rough, as whoever created this simply cut the metal with a torch and did not bother to clean the edges up, nor did it get painted. I did both before installing it. I added some rubber strips to the lower half of the mount. I drove it for two years with this clamp, so I know it works without any issues. I also added some grommets to either side of the smaller outriggers where the fuel and brake-lines pass through. I feel more at ease with the grommets protecting the lines from rubbing. (If you look you can see the rubber mount under my transmission mount) Funny story. I tore my car apart to rebuild it before I got married and had kids. When my boy was born, my family teased me he'd be driving it before me. He's 15 1/2 now and of driving age...However, he was just steering it, as I don't have it wired to run yet.
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Don't forget to take lots of photos, before during and after. They come in very handy as references, especially when putting things back together.
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I've got a layer of rattle can primer on parts of my car as a temporary protection, but I plan on removing it and doing it with professional primer before I paint.
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Are the brushes worn out? You should be able to replace them. I didn't see anything at Rimmer or Canley, but spitbits here in the states carries them, so I would presume you can source them in the UK. http://www.spitbits.com/store/52-STARTER-MOTOR-BRUSH-SET-GT6-P2339.aspx
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The problem with holes....a little rust or hole on the outside almost always means a lot of rust on the inside. What photos do you have you can share with us so we can get a better idea of what you are looking at?
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Thanks. If I can get my hands on a hoist I'll probably drop the engine on next To free up some space in my garage so i can build a rotisserie
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Here is a shot in the daylight of my chassis. With the chassis mostly complete I can move on to other bits. I installed the fuel line and new brake lines this week, along with the emergency brake. old lines installed as references I had trouble with the rear line splitter. One side would not come out even though it was completely loose. After some persuasion I managed to free it, only to discover the first couple of threads were bad. Thought I needed to order a new one, but discovered I had a spare. Problem solved! (not pictured. It's polished up nicely) You'll notice the one front brake tube is not completely formed. It is too long, and I will have to wait to complete it when I get the caliper and hoses on. But I need new hoses and my calipers need rebuilt. Today I cleaned up the emergency brake parts and got that all installed, complete with new clevis pins and cotter keys. I could not find new square 1/4 28 nuts, so I made some by welding a nut to a washer and shaping it. The advantage here is that overall size was slightly larger, so the new ones won't spin in the bracket as easily as the original ones might. I bolted them to a copper sheet before I welded them. New cable and refurbished parts temporarily assembled for a photo-op. Don't worry, I got the spring bracket the correct direction when I installed it. On the chassis
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If you can't see it without hunting for it is not a big deal if you grind of down or not, but if the extra height of the weld gets in the way, definitely smooth it. Try turning the heat up a little, that should help you get flatter welds and better penetration, and work in strips of about 1"at a time.
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I could be wrong, but that part looks like the upper or lower grille mounting bar on the GT6 Mk1 bonnet, #1 in this Canley diagram. (can't tell from the diagram if #1 is upper or lower, only one of them shown) although, if it is, is is missing a few pieces that will have to be scavenged from the old or re-created... But, you need a nose repair piece.
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Worked out great! Bit of a story at this point. I started working on this particular axle back at the beginning of May, just finished it up. Once I had the hub off I thought I may as well remove the trunnion as I bought new bearings. I had read on another forum to remove the trunnion you simply slam the axle, trunnion side down, on a vertical 2x4. Well, I merely managed to break a 2x4-that trunnion was stuck. Then I decided I may as well leave it alone, after all, the bearings were nice and smooth. So I resumed the rebuild. You'll notice in one of the photos I have the package of new retaining clips for the brake cylinder sitting next to the assembled unit. I dropped these and could not find them until after I reused the old ones. Figures! When I put the drum back on I discovered I had a 1/8 gap between the drum and brake backing plate. Seems my slamming on the board moved my trunnion up the axle instead of down. Hmmm... So, it was back to my friend with the press last night and I managed to get it properly positioned. I had to completely disassemble the brakes and removed the brake cylinder and adjuster. Guess I get to use the new clips after all! I have it all back together hear, complete with vertical link. And finally, I have the axle back on the chassis. All of the suspension rebuild is now complete, and I can finally move on. I was hoping to get the new brake lines run tonight. Guess that will have to wait till next week. I think I will drop the engine on after that, if it will fit under the cart my tub is on.
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Wow Louis, I sit down at my computer and look at your photos on a screen larger than my 7" tablet and that makes a huge difference. I agree that lower sill was probably a custom repair panel and would look much better replaced with a complete sill. This photo shows it to be very wavy and not uniform at all compare with mine: (note, the car does look a little bit better now) ~as for the plaid, Resche approves http://www.triumphdetective.com
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Got photos?
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Not sure how you could effectively, not without some sort of large flat steam press and removing all the covering from the door cards. they are made out of masonite/pressboard after all. Your best off to build or buy new ones. Or just live with em.
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Not sure how you could effectively, not without some sort of large flat steam press and removing all the covering from the door cards. they are made out of masonite/pressboard after all. Your best off to build or buy new ones. Or just live with em.
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Okay...update time 😀 All painted. At this point I was waiting to collect my other axles from my friend who could remove the hubs. And the cleaned and painted replacement hub... I am going to upgrade the studs on this as I did on the other side, but for now I need to leave the stock ones. The story goes like this: You recall me mentioning the stud holes are too large on the hub I replaced. I had my other axle with me back when I was searching for replacement studs at local suppliers, and I purchased them for both sides, according to that hub. Well, it turns out my replacement hub has holes that are just slightly smaller than the studs I purchased. I guess the PO who mangled the holes on this side probably also enlarged the holes on the other side. So now I need to make a decision--drill the holes out on this hub larger to match the other side, or replace the other hub with an untouched hub. I'll probably end up replacing the other side. But, in the mean time these studs will work just fine for me and allow me to get on with the remainder of my rebuild. I can make this decision later. So that brings me up to today. The trunnion bushing kit I bought has bushings that are too big of a diameter and I had to turn them down so they would fit. To fix it I put it loosely on a properly sized bolt mounted in the drill, just to hold it. Then I ran my grinder back and forth on it to accomplish roughly the same thing as turning it down on a lathe, which I don't have. (no need to run the drill, the bushing spins as you hit it with the grinder.) Once I got the whole thing down to proper size I buffed it out with a wire wheel. Careful if you do this method, it does get hot and test fitting takes time as you need to wait for it to cool. Success Brake assembly comes next...And then fitting to the chassis...and then...
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Strip the paint off and see what you a truly dealing with. You may find the area is larger than what you can see (hopefully not). With the grille and the bumper out of the way you can reach up there fairly easily from the front. You can try your hand at working the metal with a hammer and dolly, but in the end I found it easier to use a stud gun and hammer-puller because you are pulling the dent outward instead of smacking it from behind with a hammer. This is just one example. http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/StarterKit-Plus-P140463.aspx?gclid=CjkKEQjwxN6dBRDavZLpufuu9L8BEiQA4Vx1byA7325FkD67mXnmUo7219U64j5rFSkRicLz-tngjozw_wcB The puller will raise the panel, but it may also leave you high spots. This is where you will want to use a hammer and dolly to knock those back down, or look into a shrinking disc. If you have small rust holes, remove all the rust from around the area and weld it up using some copper as backing. I have a 1/2" copper plumbing pipe I flattened one end on to use for these kind of repairs. It is malleable enough to bend to what ever shape you need, and the rest of the pipe makes a great handle. To finalize it all use a slapping spoon (with a dolly) to help give a nice uniform smoothness to the nose. (a spoon I made just for this purpose) before after I'm not quite done with it, but it looks much better than before, and I will only have to use a minimal amount of filler. If you want to see the whole of my bonnet rebuilt, including shots of the stud gun and hammer puller use, see here: [mail]http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?8,892729[/mail] ~Hazen
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Been slow going on actual progress of late, primarily waiting on getting my bad hub removed from my good axle and removing a good hub from a bad axle. The good news is, I picked up my good axle last week from my friend who was able to get them separated and I got the parts cleaned up and ready to mate the other hub to the axle. He has since gotten the good hub separated, and I need to collect the pieces from him so I get this project moving again. This is the bent hub, finally removed. you can see that the studs are smaller than the holes, if you look closely. All the parts laid out in order for reference. Sorry bout the lighting, it was late and I didn't figure out my camera settings until the next shot. I have since gotten these cleaned and painted. I'll post those pics later once I take them.
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Actually Shaun, I was meaning bolting the rotisserie directly to the chassis, so the chassis is the lower main support of the unit instead of 1 or 2 lengths of steels tubing....But I have considered building one so the rolling chassis can be stored underneath and rolled away from it when working. (idea can be seen on this page. Website won't allow a link to the picture. http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?8,1212861,1213080#msg-1213080) The other idea I have currently is simply using the rolling cart my tub is stored on now, and simply tilting the tub to either side. Stability would be an issue, so I would need to brace the side of the cart to my garage walls-it's narrow enough it would be easy to do. (if I had a large enough garage this wouldn't even be a question!) It may limit my accessibility to the underside, however, so this idea too, may not make it past the 'giving it some thought' department. My cart as it currently is:
