byakk0
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Everything posted by byakk0
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Here is one, although I have no experience with it. http://prirace.com/page/triumph-gt6-rear-disk-brake-ki
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Its been a few minutes since I last posted, but don't worry, I haven't forgotten about updating this thread. Been working on other non-car projects, but mostly just have not had much time spend on it, unfortunately. Abby keeps me busy in my time off, giving my wife a break and all. Anyway, I managed to steal a few minutes today and built more on the rotisserie.
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Thoughts as to whatever comes to mind I guess. Just posting this for someone on another forum. Came with a car he bought. I've never seen one in this particular design and was wondering if anyone on your side of the pond had, or if maybe this is just a goofy one-off. I agree, those high backs looks weird, and possible even vision obstructing. On the other hand, if it is a rare breed and worth something (to the right person of course) then...who knows? Maybe it is not even from a GT6.
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Has anyone ever seen a GT6 rear seat like this? Thoughts? Ideas? Value?
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Light on dark or dark on light, either way the bulge would stand out. Tape some LED strips around it if you want it to REALLY stand out. :P
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MkIII bonnet? Just use a contrasting color. This will give you an idea. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-AND-GT6-BONNET-/200530434525?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb08b99dd&vxp=mtr
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This will make you laugh then. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBsPFI--muo
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If I recall there are only 3 bolts that hold the tank in place. Two at the rear, and one at the inner front. There is a hole just behind the wheel arch on the tank, but that is not used.
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the first question is, have the sills been replaced? Or have the doors been removed? I'd try adjusting the door. You may need to put thicker shims between the upper hinge and A post, and that should force the top of the door out. Then you can adjust the latch in further, hopefully, so you get a better gap when closed. Otherwise I don't think there is much you can do short of carefully bending in the bottom of the door, unless you want to mess up the paint and respray after you have done metal reshaping to the sill and maybe the dogleg on the wing.
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I can measure Mk1 GT6 tubes if you would like (for comparison), but I don't have any I can part with.
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I love the look of this one. +1 one on keeping wires for shows only.
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A few more pics. I'm taking notes of my measurements, and will post them as I go on my journal here --> http://www.triumphexp.com/journal/byakk0/11734
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Here's another pic of Abby for you. growing like a weed and keeping me busy
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Okay, I think I have the final design for the rotisserie. I've already got most of the tub support completed. I still need to build the lower cradle (or whatever it may be called). It may end up with a few more modifications, plus I did not include casters in the drawings. The pivot point will probably be 1/2" bolts of some sort, with an 8 (or more) point stop system, so I can rotate it full 360 degrees and stop pretty much where I need. I took measurements from a friend's already researched data, and the pivot point will be at 10" from the bottom of the tub support, with the bottom of the tub support being about 36" from the ground, needed clearance for me to roll my chassis underneath, hence the inverted Y shape on the one end. Design is based on items I have on hand. I'll get some measurements up later. This is just a basic idea and nowhere drawn to scale, so it may look a little tall. The wire-frame pics show the rough design and individual components better than the completed assembly. You can see from my previous photos where each of the brackets in the drawing mount to the tub.
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I like the look of your interior Eddie. Mine was torn apart when I bought it so I have never really known what it should look like. As for the H piece, I have a new wooden dash, and plan on veneering the H support also.
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More progress on the mounts...not as much as I would like, but I am moving forward. see my journal for more info. http://www.triumphexp.com/journal/byakk0/11719 Here is the final bracket for the backend, 2.5"x3" 3/16" L-metal, cut to 5" in length. Anyway, I dumped the idea of the wooden block and just used another piece of L-metal. I got the 2 peices fit together just right, and then clamped them tightly so I could weld them together. Drilled it, and ran the bolts through the board and the bracket. Works great, and I feel it will be much stronger than couple of grabber screws connecting the block to the main 2x4 rail would ever be. This is viewed from from underneath, behind the tub. And the view from the wheel-well. You can clearly see the 2 bolts connecting the bracket to the trunk floor I am wondering if I should fit a spacer in there so I don't cave in the floor-I probably will, if nothing else just for the peace-of-mind.
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Wow, dual headers and six springs. That must be some GT6 you have going on! 😀 Anyway, good looking car. Glad to hear you are getting closer to the finish(?) line.
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Got a little bit more work done on the rotisserie this week. I am running 2x4s under both sides just inside the rockers for strength long ways. I would use the extra chassis I have, but I need to get at locations the chassis would cover. I want to prevent unneeded twisting, so I am going the 2x4 route, bolting them to the metal ends and the body mounting points. I did not take into account the depth of the floor pan, so my initial design had the 2x4 running right to the front mounting point. I discovered today the depth of the floor pan added an unaccounted for extra 1.5 inches. Adding an extra lengths of steel tube and a small spacer is the method I used to over come it. Additionally, the 2x4 runs right to the back, where I intend to mount it to the bumper attachment points in the trunk(boot). Still working out how to connect the 2x4 to the block bolted to the underside. Probably will go with a construction nail plate. Also, I will connect it to the radius arm points, if I can figure it out. Modified the front piece. Compare it to the previous photo. (Ignore the board in the middle. It is not part of the design) Adding more tube to the old was easier than cutting the welds and replacing with a longer one. It will add strength anyway, and added some space between the 2x4 and the tube. I just needed a 1/2" spacer to add to it. I drilled a piece of 2.5x3" L steel to bolt to the floor of the boot at the bumper mounting points, and drilled the other side of the steel to mount a 2x4 block. I still need to connect the block to the board it is resting on. This is the one I may use the construction nail plate on, or, I may eliminate it all together and weld another piece of the 2.5x3 steel to the one I already have there, in the shape of a Z so the board rests on top of it. I'll play with it and see if I like it. From the underside. I still need to fit the off-side wing. (LHD car, so that would be nearside on a RHD. 😉 ) Doesn't look like much, but I did get a lot done this week, though, naturally not as much as I would have liked.
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you've probably already looked by now, but the side of your calipers should show a 16P or a 16PB.
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Awe shucks. They don't list a 16P SS piston.
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I've been pricing caliper pistons and couldn't find them at canley's website. They all came up as NLA. Judging from your rotoflex comment, I presume you need the 16PB type. Bummer, as I need 16P. Anyway, do you have the part number for those?
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Yeah. I need a spare, but those will break me right now
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no, I have the Mk1 GT6. The lights are actually separate, see the two holes below the headlight? They didn't do the single lens until the later GT6. There would be a rectangular slot there for the lights instead. (other indicators its a Mk1 GT6 is no side vents on the bonnet and no side vents behind the 1/4 windows...) for simplicity's sake, the spitfire Mk1 & 2 align closer to the GT6 mk1. The spitfire Mk3 and the GT6 Mk2 (in the US GT6+) are similar. MkIII GT6 and the Spitfire4/1500 are similar.
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Interesting bumper... It is possible, but with modifications. The chassis mounting points for the bonnet hinges are different. You either need to modify the mounts to match the Mk1/2 and get bonnet hinge tubes to match as well, or engineer the hinges some other way. compare the above yellow one to this: As for why the change, I'm under the impression it was for new safety regulations somewhere. Probably somewhere insane like California. But, I totally agree. The bumper in the middle with teardrop over-riders look like an afterthought to me. I prefer the look of the Mk1/2 spit and Mk1 GT6 over the Mk3 spit / MK2 GT6
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/321504112970?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Granted, they are in the US, and being 13" finding tyres to fit them now are getting harder and harder. Just a word of warning. Last I found sumitomo was the only company still the size I need, but with my luck they are not any more.
