efp
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Everything posted by efp
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Have to disagree Mr Guppy. The piston stays unmoving at the top of the stroke for quite a few degrees of crank rotation. You need to find the centre of that period to establish true TDC or you haven’t got an accurate base position to set the cam to and the exercise is pointless. The only accurate way is with a piston stop and timing disk, though it’s possible to get close with a dial gauge to establish the start of the period and the point at which it starts to fall and halving it.
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A thank you to JohnD for his tensioner spring retaining wire suggestion, worked better than my idea. But may I suggest this tweak? If centred on the spring and bent right it can hold it in place freeing up your third hand :/. Worked for me anyway.
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Pm sent Phil
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I've just been through this Phl, and to be honest, that link isn't the best advice I've seen. It just says set the crank at TDC for example, but thats not so simple and to find an accurate TDC really requires a degree wheel and a piston stop. You could just go with the marks stamped on your sprockets, but if they aren't there, or are inaccurate (quite common I understand), maybe read through this, rather long, thread. Gives several methods http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?8,1316080
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Good tip Sparky. And if I might add, I don’t know what you call it, but a length of that flat plastic tape stuff used to strap parcels is ideal for holding the tensioner back when refitting the cover, slips out easy. Cam timing can make a huge difference to engine performance and the factory marks are probably right, so be careful to reassemble in EXACTLY in the position the cogs come off. Make clear marks for alignment. If you have the time, tools and temperament now would be a very good time to check and fine tune the timing, but it’s a right faff, so if you are happy with the way the engine was running, just be sure to put it back the same. It’s easy to be a tooth out
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Others may differ, but I'd suggest freeing off the gearbox mounts and jacking up there slightly, should give you a bit of wriggle room as the front engine mounts, UJ's and sliding propshaft joint will all allow some upward central movement. Getting the box mount bolts back into place again will be another barrel of fun tho, so dont take the nuts off if you can help it. Cant but help wondering if it's worth the grief: yet to see a painted exhaust that held up its finish well.
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Thanks again Dan. J
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Only just started looking Pete, will keep an eye on eBay but think I’ll end up getting the Quickfit ones for now, and keep an eye out for a matching Kangol with a view to a long term refurbishment. Incidentally, if anyone else is interested, I found these NOS on a Japanese site. But at around £330 plus tax and shipping, a bit much for me, and suspect they’d suit a later model better Cheers
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Thanks Dan. The Kangol magnetics seem to be period correct but as I now understand it dealers often fitted what they had to hand either at the point of sale or later. So strictly there may not be a “correct” type? So I can junk my “obsession” with the Kangols, much as I like them, which was my original question. Which is probably just as well as they seem to be thin on the ground. Didn’t know mk2s only came with two floor points, but there seems to be a morass of conflicting misinformation out there on t’interweb regarding belts on classics, so am a bit confused. My wheelarch top mounting plates looked original but hard to tell after 50 years. I’ll certainly stick with 3 pointers of some kind. Cheers
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Hi John A little harsh toned? Thanks for your concern, but I always fully intended to get the belts professionally re-webbed and checked over. I make no apologies for my obsession, I see nothing wrong and take pride in getting and keeping my cars as period correct as possible, within reason, and drive them mindful of their limitations. Obviously certain parts have a finite life, but to use your own analogy, I wouldn’t throw a wheel away just because the tyre is worn (though I’m not obsessed enough to fit crossplys..). See no reason why the belts can’t be made safe again, and I like the look. Best John
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Think I’ve found the answer to my own question: cars produced since 65 had to have belt mount points if not belts, which were required from 67, but then later all post 65 cars were retrospectively required to have belts fitted ☹️ This seems to be the consensus anyway, though some sources differ, I can’t find the actual legislative act, and even Wikipedia says citation needed. Looking like I’ll have to go down the securon type route as this style of Kangol seems to be like rocking horse poo. ☹️ again.
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Another pic. If anyone has a single one of these lying around unwanted, in any condition, I’d be glad to hear from you. Thanks John
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Interesting Pete, cheers. You could be right on dealer fitting. Not sure, but I have an idea belts became mandatory in 67 and while my car was registered Jan 1 1967, obviously she was built in 66. Believe the mot rules dictate that if belts were fitted they have to stay fitted, but such has been the extent of my restoration, right now there’s no holes or bracketry to show she ever was so fitted..(held off till I decided which type to install) so wondering if I could get away without them for her final MOT? Obviously not sensible to drive much without belts at all, but want to get her motted soon, finding and restoring period belts will take time and money I don’t have, and like you, I’m not at all keen on the look of the Securon types.
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In my sad obsession with originality, I’m now at the point of looking at seatbelts on my mk2 spit. I know, anyone sensible would be looking at aftermarket inertia Securons etc. but I’m not sensible. Pictured is what came off the car, in a sad and very unsafe state, Kangol branded 3 point static with a J type clasp. But I only have one set. L Before I go down the path of finding a matching one and getting them restored (Quickfit has been suggested), can someone confirm this is the original type to the car?
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Hope my responses didn't sound condescending J-J, not intended, just had a similar issue recently. I so much more prefer our ancients where few problems can't be solved without the right AF spanner and a large hammer..
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In my albeit limited experience of moderns, the dangers of disconnecting the battery, at least briefly, seem to have become a bit overblown and the stuff of urban legend. I’ve yet to have had any problems other than the audio losing its settings and the windows needing retraining. But the owners manual should give you an express warning if it’s an issue on your car. Maybe I’ve just been lucky.. Yes, a multimeter (on the right settings!) across the fuse base should give you the draw, which should be nothing or just a few milliamps at rest. But one fuse can be feeding several circuits so it’s only a starting point sometimes. No help in your immediate problem JJ, but if like me you are forever juggling batteries of suspect vintage, I heartily recommend getting something like this, which can measure the actual cranking amps left in a battery, not just the voltage which is a pretty useless indicator of its health
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I’m no electrician, but think you need to measure the current draw across each fuse with an ammeter, rather than volts. Something might leap out as obviously sucking current. It’s not simple on a modern as some circuits continually draw a little, like alarm, and some take up to 30 minutes to go to sleep after stopping. But check the simple first? Anything you’ve fiddled with recently or has been acting strangely? Are you sure the interior/ boot/ glove box lights go off when closed? Went through this recently on my Merc, turned out to be the alarm siren unit in the whelarch: internal rechargeable batteries within had died and leaked, eating up the circuit board and shorting, trying to continually sound a non functioning siren.. Killed the battery and locked me out with no functioning keys. What a game that was.. Hope yours is simpler.
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Maybe thinner than you are looking for, but I’ve used old manilla file folders before.
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Can’t help you with the rear springs, but I picked this up from Paul Giethner’s excellent pages re the front, if it’s of any help: “the total distance between the center of the bolt attaching the damper to the lower A-arm and the upper spring seat is 10.25 inches. Because the distance from the lower A-arm to damper (shock absorber) connection and the bottom spring seat is nominally 3.25 inches, this also corresponds to a compressed length of the front coil springs installed of 7 inches.
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Sorry M, still a little unclear here.. Do the revs really and audibly drop that far? Or just indicated? Im a mechanical numpty compared too most of you, but my first thought was wear in the nylon square drive cable sockets on the dizzy or clock? Happened to me. Too simplistic?
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It shows
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Absolutely brilliant Hazen. Many thanks. You have a rare gift for clear and comprehensive description