efp
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Everything posted by efp
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Hazen. Random thought and slight thread drift, but by any chance do you have any more pix of the cardboardy bits backing your handbrake gaiter? Got a recovering kit from Newton Commercial for the armrest which includes the bare gaiter but the base(s) I have dont have the backing bits. Sure i can work it out to codge something but a few more reference pix would be a help. What you have posted already has been a big help already in getting my plan together so yet again I thank you. As far as the lead loading goes, again, I'll be following your experience with interest. So far on my rebuild I'm rather smug to say I havent used a single dab of filler but as I start my bonnet rebuild the point of the nose could do with a tad of reshaping beyond my dollying skills. Like you I guess, I've absorbed a few YouTube vids, but seeing and doing are different things... Best John
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ie, not even worth $0.02... 🙂
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All on tenterhooks here, waiting for a resolution.. My money was on a dropped arm pivot pin, but now I don't know. Dropping the box is fiddly, but not a huge job on the overall scale of things. Tho getting it back aligned can be a faff if you're unlucky.. See other posts. Element of luck and patience involved. Personally I'd be inclined to open it up and check it all out if your furkling with the slave isn't conclusive. And if you do choose to go that far you may as well put in a new clutch assembly, release bearing, crinkle bush and headed pivot pin if you are in any doubt on any of them, not a job you want to do again for a while, and the parts aren't that expensive. Just my $0.002.
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Would something like this help you find the point in the circuit that has the highest temperature? http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/infr.....gUnrSd8WDRoCLAjw_wcB
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Thanks for your advice and reassurance John. Feeling more confident now. cheers John
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Maybe a non- sequitur, in which case apologies, but wanting to fire up my 1147 lump after a 23 year hibernation followed by a rebuild, I decided to replace the temp gauge with a Smiths dual temp/oil pressure jobby, as I had otherwise nothing but the pressure warning light which I wasn't totally confident with. Early days yet, but Im seeing 60-ish psi on cold idle, dropping to 40 ish when warmed up, but this is static, yet to take a road run. Not unhappy.Cant tell you what a buzz it was to hear that burble again after all those years.. First turn of the key too. My point is, while fitting the (plastic) capillary oil pressure tube, I can't be entirely sure I expelled absolutely all air from the line before clamping it all up, despite my best efforts. Maybe theres some trick to this but I can't find it documented. So I'm wondering if, should there be an air bubble in the capillary tubing, will it not expand as the oil and engine bay warm up, and have more compressibility, throwing out the numbers? Sorry if this is a dumb question
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Fascinating thread, many thanks Not sure how to phrase this without getting the fnurr, fnurr comments here , but your gearstick looks almost as rusty as mine. I asked noted gearbox guru Mike Papworth once if good shiny ones ever come up and he said rarely, but suggested that rather than having an expensive rechrome, some early spits came from the factory with a black covered stick and that suitably sized shrink wrap could be heated on and look authentic. I've done this and don't think it looks too bad at all. Easy to do and easy to reverse if you want to.
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Probably blasphemy, am braced for flaming, but have you considered original code paint beneath, then a vinyl spray wrap in your choice of colour de jour over the top? Never seen a classic car done like this I admit, but have seen some modern ones which look rather good, if masked and sprayed well. Not cheap, but cheaper than a full respray in 2 pack, and of course you can peel it off and redo when you get bored with the colour. Anyone tried this?
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Meh, call me a Luddite, but I'd stick to whatever paint code it says on the commission plate. I like originality.
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Not sure I can agree Paul. Surely the he main source of heat has to be the exhaust manifold which as discussed elsewhere here, gets ludicrously hot, while the water system gets to maybe 120 max internally? Makes sense to me to route the pipe in the cooler air flow at the front. But as always, I defer to those with more knowledge than me. Best John
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That's something that has puzzled me: early spits seem to have had the fuel pipe from the pump to the carbs routed around the sharp end of the engine, as it were, over the thermostat housing. But mine, and most others I've seen, have it routed at the bulkhead end now. Maybe a red herring but I agree, it does seem logical that the front end would be a bit cooler, albeit not much, and as the pipe run is longer I'm wondering if Triumph didn't originally do it that way for a reason. Though Thomason does suggest that the aft routing from FH50001 on the Mk4 was to reduce heat pick-up in the pipe. Can't think it makes a huge difference, but intrigued. Someone with more patience than me and having one of those infra-red thermometer jobbies , might like to investigate one day
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Not quite yet at the point of replacing the chrome trim strips on my rebuild, but having seen the paint damage and rust egress done by the metal clips on the flanges on the original wing, Im planning to totally avoid them this time. Ive read various threads here in the past advocating silicone sealant and the like as a fixer, and likewise complaints that that this makes the trim impossible to remove without major damage, so my thinking now is to just use a dab of TigerSeal or similar at each end to hold them in, and then flooding the voids with Dynax or maybe UC to prevent rust in future. Any overflow be easily removed with a spirit wipe or something without the evils of silicone contamination. Cant think they need much grip to hold them in place as long as they follow the seam contour well. Any thoughts?
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Learn something new every day! cheers chaps John
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Thanks Nick. Metric even in the 1960's? Surprising. Cheers
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Another small, possibly inane, question from me, but as always the patient wise input from you guys is always much appreciated. Was just about to pull the plug (sorry..) on ordering an engine compression tester from Amazon, but I noticed that all the plughole adaptors are metric fittings. I have no idea what the spark plug threads are, but given that its a 50 yr old car on which almost everything else is UNF, Im suspecting am M14 or whatever adaptor may bugger up my head threads? Or by fitting badly give inaccurate results? What do you guys use?
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Yeah Marky, apparently its the added ethanol in modern fuels that rots the flexi hose unless its internally coated to qualify for the 30R9 or 10 rating I mentioned in my first post (and again thanks to Clifty for his research on that). Trouble is, many suppliers of hose online don't or won't specify the rating on their hose, R6 or 7 won't last. I now know much more about fuel piping than is probably healthy, bless you all. Really need to get out more..
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Thanks Wim. I stand to be corrected, but I got the impression elsewhere that the pipe on the 1/2/3 was 1/4" and was changed to 5/16" on the Mk4 and 1500. Cant see it would do any harm to go 5/16" (8mm -ish) on my Mk2, but just thinking of the connections to flexible sections. JohnD, that alloy stuff looks good, but the unions are a bit pricey, and again, only in 8mm That Paddock kit looks comprehensive and good value though, I'm leaning that way now.. Cheers all
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Thanks all for your input. Paul, had discounted using steel again as I believe its a bugger to bend? But open to persuasion. Grant the original has lasted the best part of 50 years down there. Dinger and Nick, I didn't know full length flexi was an MOT no-no: rules that out, thanks Wimpus, think the pipe needs to be 1/4 inch/6mm ish. Think most brake pipe is rather smaller bore? But may come bigger, I dunno. Yes, the Rimmer kit is expensive, but it comes as an end to end set, including flared sections, unions, clamps and flexible sections, and moreover is the same set as the TSSC store sells, albeit 10 quid cheaper were I a member, so Im thinking its good quality. Hadn't spotted the Paddock kit, I'll look into that. Nick, microbore 8mm is another option. Would I struggle get the 1/4" bore flexible sections to go over the ends? cheers
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Managed to snap the long steel (?) fuel pipe running along the chassis when reinstalling on my mk2. Should I replace with the 81 quid Rimmers replacement copper kit or go for flexible hose all the way? 30R9 spec looks the way to go, (thanks Cliftyhanger) given the increasing ethanol content of modern fuel but Im leaning to keeping things as original-looking as possible. And if I go hose, can anyone recommend a supplier? Most suppliers seem very vague about their ratings.
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Ah, thought I was the first to respond, but seemingly not. I defer to my more experienced colleagues. But still, welcome.
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Abslolutely no idea on any of your questions , sorry, but fascinated by your concept. Is LIFePO4 some kind of hybrid? My uninformed idea (a Spit man myself) is that the weight of a six-pot alone up front of a lightweight car makes the handling marginal hence all the efforts to move it rearwards. What the effect of a bunch of batteries would make I have no idea. Please keep us updated on your plans and progress. And dare I say welcome to the forum?
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Does anyone have any experience of using either of these products from Frosts? http://www.frost.co.uk/plastic.....shboard-plastic.html or http://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-matte-black-plastic-resurfacer-aerosol-15089.html My Mk2 spit dash top is fairly good except around one tonneau stud, but very chalky and grey and conventional vinyl cleaners dont seem to help. Given that aftermarket toppers seem to get a bad rap I though I might try one of these before going down the re-covering road.
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+1 on consulting Mike Papworth. Not cheap but a fount of knowledge and a straight guy in my experience.
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I know there's not a lot of love here for wire wheels but I think they look the dog's gonads on a round tail, so I have a set ready to go on the car when the rebuild is finished. I doubt I will be throwing it about too much on the road. And it may be common knowledge here though I can't recall seeing it mentioned: Triumph issued the following Service Bulletin in Feb 1969, so I have a small tub of this grease ready: ----------------------------------------- February 6, 1969 Triumph Service Bulletin Pertaining to GT-6, Spitfire, TR-250 & TR-4A In addition to recent Service Bulletins on this subject, in order to simplify the fitting of wire wheels to hub adaptors, it has been decided that grease can and should be liberally applied to all tapers, splines and screw threads on both the wire wheels and adaptors alike. The following procedure must be adopted each time wheels are removed and refitted and careful attention always given to this at all predelivery, 1,000 mile inspections and routine service operations: 1. Check that the splines on the hub adaptors and in the wheels are clean and free from foreign matter. 2. Insure that the adaptor taper, hub nut and matting wheel hub tapers are clean. 3. Grease all tapers, splines and screw threads liberally with special PBC grease. Stocks of this PBC grease in the form of 1 oz. tubes part number V 640 are available through our Spares Organization. 4. Slide the wheel on to the adaptor and pushing against the wheel hub center to maintain concentric location, simultaneously screw on the retaining nut by hand until the wheel is felt to seat on the adaptor taper. Restraining the wheel with one hand, continue tightening by striking the ears of the nut with a soft faced hammer or on later cars, tighten wheel nut with special wrench included with tool kit. Lower the wheel to the ground and finally tighten. Failure to observe these precautions can result in the tapered faces binding causing premature tightening of the nut against the wheel outer taper and failure to clamp the wheel against the adaptor taper. Such condition would prevent the wheel from seating correctly and lead to damaged splines.